I am doing a cam install in a week or so and already have the parts and install kit ect.. But besides 6 quarts of oil and a new oil filter, what other expenses will I have to buy for this installation? Oils, lubricants, gaskets, or special tools maybe? I'd like to minimize any un-expected expenses if possible, and get everything I need so that there are very few surprises. Thanks in advance! -John

 

5" 1/2" extension for breaker bar, i thin ka 24mm socket for the crank bolt, beefy pulley puller, a block of wood (2x4) and mallot or a pulley press to reinstall (to make sure you dont strip the crank threads), thread locker and red rtv.... 24 pack of beers

 

What install kit do you have?? Check to make sure it contains the following:

Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Water pump gaskets
New Crank bolt

Thats just your basic GM cam install kit. Tool wise you'll want a good pulley puller for the balancer & something to hold the lifters up if your not doin heads also. No special lube needed, just put some oil on the cam lobes & you'll be alright. You should probably be doin a set of springs along with the cam so you'll need a spring compressor tool also.

 

anti freeze if your old stuff needs changing. Also you might want to pick up 10mm ratcheting boxed end wrench for dropping the oil pan that little bit required to put the pickup tube back on the oil pump, some of those bolts are tough to get to and having a gear wrench makes it easier to get to them. Also to do the pickup tube bolt (its 10mm also I believe).

 

grey rtv sealant is way cheaper than buying a whole new gsket kit from GM.

 

true, but I think if its worth doing, its worth doing right. I wouldn't want any leaks after my install.

 

why risk your motor over 30 bucks?

 

I would get the jrp rods to hold up those lifters. Once u get inside the engine, your lifters need to be hanging up on the plastic lifter try inside the engine. Most of the time they do not hold up and the cam job cannot be done. U can get the JRP Rods or wooden dowel rods with a flat top on them. You can stick them in the front of the engine when everything else is off. Just my.2

 

get the ARP crank bolt too...that is longer than the stock crank and will considerably help you put ur balancer back on..with the bolt you have the length to thread it in the crank and wratchet the balancer on while without that bolt you have to fanangle it quite a bit...if you buy that bolt, you will need a 27 MM socket to fit it instead of the 24 for the stock as well....

i needed about 30 beers or so for the cam/heads/headers/intake of mine...lol

 

The water pump gaskets on your car are re-useable, so you can save your $10 there. You can rent a puller from Auto-Zone, but make sure you get a 5 ton 3 arm puller and not the harmonic balancer puller. It is free to rent but I believe the deposit is $40. Get an ARP balancer bolt as well, the stock one isn't quite long enough to get the pulley off with some pullers. The ARP bolt is a little longer than stock.

If you're not pulling the heads, you will need something to hold the lifters up. You can spend $90 on a special tool or $2 on some 5/16" wood dowel rods, either will work. If you're changing the springs you will need a spring compressor. You can either use the TDC method to keep the valves from falling or use an air compressor and the hose from a compression tester to keep them up.

It might help to have a friend to help you get the radiator out, it is a bear by yourself. There are tabs that hold the radiator onto the AC condensor which make it a pain to get out by yourself.

 

Guys, thanks for the responses but I already have all the parts, meaning valve springs, push rods, ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain ect.. I want to CUT NO CORNERS with this installation.

 

As other said, I can't stress enough to get the right pulley puller and the ARP bolt...saved me a lot of headaches with me last H/C swap...

 

Crap I hope the package from TSP has the crank bolt!

 

if you get the arp bolt, you will need to get a socket for it.... if you got the tsp heads and cam package you will be straight if not pm me i have an extra stock bolt brand new

 

Yes I got the head cam package, I guess I just didnt see the bolt..

edit:

looks like we have a very similar setup... why did you go with new rockers and injectors? just curious... Also have you dynoed it yet? what kind of numbers are you pulling? I have a 12 bolt so I probably will make a bit less, though the aluminum flywheel should help

 

Also I just noticed the the TV3, has higher lift on the intake valve than any of these:
MS3, MS4, Texas giant....

I wonder if this is limiting my CR and the Tv2 looks like it should make better low end torque... now Im having 2nd thoughts..

 

ls1howto.com has a nice cam install write up. At the beginning it lists everything you need.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

excellent writeup

 

you're not risking your motor, you're just saving $30. just bc its not "Gm" and it doesnt cost an arm and a leg doesnt mean it doesnt work. all my friends performing cam swaps re-do their gaskets with grey RTV sealant. if youre not an idiot and know how to do it its a perfectly fine alternative. but i see this guy wants to cut no corners and if he thinks paying more for somethin makes it better, then so be it lol. just tryin to save him some money....