getting the dot to dot on a cam install
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getting the dot to dot on a cam install ok im doing my cam swap finally after waiting for almost seven months.. well anyways im kinda confused bout the whole dot to dot thing, i was reading it up on ls1howto.com and well can some one kinda explain it to me a lil different if possible thanks again...
Most people simply line up the dots and say that all is well. The more serious guys will actually degree the cam...you would need a cam degree kit to do that and it requires a little technical knowledge, some math skills, and time.
I installed my cam dot-to-dot and then found that it was 4 degrees off...I was able to get the intake center line corrected using an adjustable timing chain.
My advice is to always degree the cam for maximum power and to get the valve event timing correct. However, the vast majority of folks on this board that do cam swaps just slam it home and go to the dyno.
I installed my cam dot-to-dot and then found that it was 4 degrees off...I was able to get the intake center line corrected using an adjustable timing chain.
My advice is to always degree the cam for maximum power and to get the valve event timing correct. However, the vast majority of folks on this board that do cam swaps just slam it home and go to the dyno.
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Most people simply line up the dots and say that all is well. The more serious guys will actually degree the cam...you would need a cam degree kit to do that and it requires a little technical knowledge, some math skills, and time.
I installed my cam dot-to-dot and then found that it was 4 degrees off...I was able to get the intake center line corrected using an adjustable timing chain.
My advice is to always degree the cam for maximum power and to get the valve event timing correct. However, the vast majority of folks on this board that do cam swaps just slam it home and go to the dyno.
I installed my cam dot-to-dot and then found that it was 4 degrees off...I was able to get the intake center line corrected using an adjustable timing chain.
My advice is to always degree the cam for maximum power and to get the valve event timing correct. However, the vast majority of folks on this board that do cam swaps just slam it home and go to the dyno.
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On a more serious note, if you are installing the 233/239 112 cam that is in your signature, or anything larger, I would definitely recommend degreeing the cam, as well as a check for piston to valve clearance. If the P&P 806 heads (also in your sig) have been milled to increase the compression, you could be dangerously close. If the timing is off, possibly too close.
Good Luck!
the cam gear can only go on one way its got a little pin on the cam and the gear will just slip on that and line the bolts up it is easy just be easy sliding the cam in threw the bearings and put a good amount of lube on the cam before slipping it in
once you have them lined up they aren't going anywhere. the minimum amount you can be off is one tooth. its obvious if you have it off by that amount.
Its a simple check guys. I've done a couple where we couldn't agree that it was dead on. After spinning the motor over a couple times you could tell. If you have the pushrods and springs done it also helps verify their operation.
It'll either be on or a whole link off. Being **** I spun my motor over a few times and even re-did it to be 100% sure.
Unless you have an adjuatable timing set don't bother degreeing the cam... as you can't do anything about it.
Some cams come ground off... but I had no issues w/ mine. LGM told me the degree'd the first few they had cut from COMP and found them perfect, after than they just install dot/dot.
If I had the heads off hte car or was building a new motor I'd degree it for sure, but for my simple cam swap I went dot/dot.
Here's my dot/dot pic w/ my LS2 chain:
Unless you have an adjuatable timing set don't bother degreeing the cam... as you can't do anything about it.
Some cams come ground off... but I had no issues w/ mine. LGM told me the degree'd the first few they had cut from COMP and found them perfect, after than they just install dot/dot.
If I had the heads off hte car or was building a new motor I'd degree it for sure, but for my simple cam swap I went dot/dot.
Here's my dot/dot pic w/ my LS2 chain:
If you had an adjustable timing set, and you wanted to advance the timing how would this be done?..What would the dots look like at the point of advance instead of being straight up?..
Kev
Kev
How you move it will depend on your timing set. Some use multiple keyways on the crank gear, in which case the installed keyway will advance or retard from the point you've measured at 0. Those should remain dead on dot to dot. Other sets use either an adjusting eccentric around/over the cam pin, or a locking mechanism with several nuts to loosen and rotate the outer gear in relation to the inner gear.
Since moving the cam gear one degree equates to two crankshaft degrees, you would probably not be able to detect the difference to the naked eye without moving it a lot.
Since moving the cam gear one degree equates to two crankshaft degrees, you would probably not be able to detect the difference to the naked eye without moving it a lot.
How you move it will depend on your timing set. Some use multiple keyways on the crank gear, in which case the installed keyway will advance or retard from the point you've measured at 0. Those should remain dead on dot to dot. Other sets use either an adjusting eccentric around/over the cam pin, or a locking mechanism with several nuts to loosen and rotate the outer gear in relation to the inner gear.
Since moving the cam gear one degree equates to two crankshaft degrees, you would probably not be able to detect the difference to the naked eye without moving it a lot.
Since moving the cam gear one degree equates to two crankshaft degrees, you would probably not be able to detect the difference to the naked eye without moving it a lot.
Wurd on the avatar...Haha...Good ****
Kev
