Mobil 1?!?!?
lol...i had a buddy with the same situation 160k on the car when the engine blew (to much spray) but it ran damn strong up until it went boom...on the other hand by 160k miles he had gone thru 6 trannies....He just loves the spray and doesnt beleive in window switches. and im talking constantly spraying not just at the track.....that car took a beating and he definatey got his moneys worth out of it.
i have always ran mobil 1 5w/ 30 in every vehicle since 1995 and never had a prob. i have a WS6 w/ 116,000 and a GMC sierra w/ 310,000 and still going strong just like rthe day it was bought new i also had a 95 m6 vette which came from the factory w/ mobile 1 5/30 seems to be good enough to take the extreme abuse i through at it and i have been known to go over the 3,000 mile mark a few times
the oil aint the prob. atleast not for me i love it.
the oil aint the prob. atleast not for me i love it.
Im a Mobil 1 guy, I like it, I guess. But I have a question. What the heck is the difference between German Castrol and Castrol? are they different? Do you get a Hitler figurine in the German Castrol? No, seriously, I hear everyone say German Castrol, so whats the difference. Ive been debating change, sounds like everyone here love the Castrol.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 79
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From: laguna niguel Ca
Im a fan of mobil too I run it in my 93 mercedes my 06 lexus and my 02 camaro. even my 62 nova and my 56 chevy.I cant say how well it performs under pressure the only cars that eats it up are my 62 and my z.
I wanted to test mobil vs some royal so i went with mobil a little while back. Changed the oil reset the life meter and all. Less than 3 k miles the change engine oil light was coming on and i could feel a sluggish feel from the truck.
Went back to Royal and the sluggish feel went away. I've also ran royal up to 11k miles and never had the change engine oil display show it's ugly little face.
Went back to Royal and the sluggish feel went away. I've also ran royal up to 11k miles and never had the change engine oil display show it's ugly little face.
I dont think that light comes on cause of the condition of the oil but more of a preset time or something....ive changed the oil and had the light come on like 2 days later.
Im a Mobil 1 guy, I like it, I guess. But I have a question. What the heck is the difference between German Castrol and Castrol? are they different? Do you get a Hitler figurine in the German Castrol? No, seriously, I hear everyone say German Castrol, so whats the difference. Ive been debating change, sounds like everyone here love the Castrol.
I tried GC, but was not that impressed; seemed to burn more - Not very scientific analysis on my part, but I ended up switching back to M1. Lots of ppl have good oil analysis to back up GC claims, however.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
I wanted to test mobil vs some royal so i went with mobil a little while back. Changed the oil reset the life meter and all. Less than 3 k miles the change engine oil light was coming on and i could feel a sluggish feel from the truck.
Went back to Royal and the sluggish feel went away. I've also ran royal up to 11k miles and never had the change engine oil display show it's ugly little face.
Went back to Royal and the sluggish feel went away. I've also ran royal up to 11k miles and never had the change engine oil display show it's ugly little face.
when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based
on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not
on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage
at which an oil change will be indicated can vary
considerably. For the oil life system to work properly,
you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
The system has now way of knowing what oil is in the engine or if it even has oil. It is simply an algorithm. You do have another system that tells you if you low on oil.
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What weight and type of Mobil 1 oil were you using? Just curious.
Not to say that you did this, but it blows me away how so many people think that they can run a 0w- oil and rev the **** out of their LSx engine with no adverse affects. I just got done reading a bunch of oil related threads and was curious. Thats all. Good luck with your new shortblock bro. Keep us posted.
Forgot to include: I run Mobil1 15w50 Extended Performance and a Mobil1 filter.
Not to say that you did this, but it blows me away how so many people think that they can run a 0w- oil and rev the **** out of their LSx engine with no adverse affects. I just got done reading a bunch of oil related threads and was curious. Thats all. Good luck with your new shortblock bro. Keep us posted.
Forgot to include: I run Mobil1 15w50 Extended Performance and a Mobil1 filter.
eril is eril, the main difference (the way I understand it) in synthetics is the additives. Thats y m1 has the 15000k mi stuff, the additives are formulated to last longer.
You have to use some judgement. IE, I'm going to change my eril before and after 3 days at vir. Prob even add a qt or so during the weekend, NBD.
The car's computer didn't tell me to change the oil after a season of hpde's, 14 track days, but I definately changed it after every event w/o resetting the computer. So what's going by the computer mean? Nothing. But is oil bad after winding it out a few of times, I personally don't think so.
Dragonlovers avatar is the best....could watch that all day
You have to use some judgement. IE, I'm going to change my eril before and after 3 days at vir. Prob even add a qt or so during the weekend, NBD.
The car's computer didn't tell me to change the oil after a season of hpde's, 14 track days, but I definately changed it after every event w/o resetting the computer. So what's going by the computer mean? Nothing. But is oil bad after winding it out a few of times, I personally don't think so.
Dragonlovers avatar is the best....could watch that all day
0w has no bearing on the oil viscosity at operating temps. 0w30, 5w30,10w30 or straight 30 wt will all have the same viscosity at 100*C. The w number indicated the weight the oil acts like at freezing (0* C). Once it warms up, you can disregard that number completely.
So your implying that no matter what the weight of a multi-viscosity oil, at operating temps, they are all the same? If so, you better double check your facts before stating that.
Damn, sorry to hijack the thread. I will stop.
Damn, sorry to hijack the thread. I will stop.
Agreed!
0w has no bearing on the oil viscosity at operating temps. 0w30, 5w30,10w30 or straight 30 wt will all have the same viscosity at 100*C. The w number indicated the weight the oil acts like at freezing (0* C). Once it warms up, you can disregard that number completely.
0w has no bearing on the oil viscosity at operating temps. 0w30, 5w30,10w30 or straight 30 wt will all have the same viscosity at 100*C. The w number indicated the weight the oil acts like at freezing (0* C). Once it warms up, you can disregard that number completely.
At 100* C, a 0w30 will act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, a 10w30 will also act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, you can completely disregard the first number (before the w).
Originally Posted by WikiPedia.com
The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F). The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature.
And more from valvoline:
More from Castrol:
More from how Stuff Works
Do you want me to go on?
Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures. In other words, multigrade oils are formulated to pass viscosity tests across a range of weights. For example, 10W30 meets the requirements for 10-weight at cold temperatures and 30-weight at high temps.
Oil thins when heated and thickens when cooled. Choosing the proper motor oil viscosity grade for the ambient temperature of your geographic location is therefore vitally important.
In a monograde oil the motor oil viscosity is defined at only one temperature, either high or low. A multigrade must keep a viscosity that will protect the engine effectively at both high and low temperatures.
This makes multigrades an easy and popular year-round choice for drivers who experience hot summers and harsh winters. Multigrades are easily recognized by the dual viscosity rating (i.e. 10W-30 where the 10W is the low temperature or winter designation and the 30 is the high temperature designation). It is the motor oil viscosity modifier additive that produces a thickening effect at high temperatures but is dormant at low temperatures.
In a monograde oil the motor oil viscosity is defined at only one temperature, either high or low. A multigrade must keep a viscosity that will protect the engine effectively at both high and low temperatures.
This makes multigrades an easy and popular year-round choice for drivers who experience hot summers and harsh winters. Multigrades are easily recognized by the dual viscosity rating (i.e. 10W-30 where the 10W is the low temperature or winter designation and the 30 is the high temperature designation). It is the motor oil viscosity modifier additive that produces a thickening effect at high temperatures but is dormant at low temperatures.
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
I am not diggin' Mobil 1 either. Long story short - I was getting ready to put in some Royal Purple in my car when I had this piece of metal stuck on the oil plug. I went to the store and bought this cheap *** oil jus' so I could fill it up and take it to the dealer. (I wasn't going to waste my Royal Purple only to have them drop the oil pan and dump my new RP oil!) Anyways, I started it up and it was super quiet with the cheap non-brand oil. Mobil 1 makes too much noise. I don't know if it caused my Spun Bearing or not but I think it's on the thin side of oils. Besides, it says Synthetic Blend? Does that mean it's not fully synthetic?
My bad. I miss read your original post where he named off all *-w30 weights. I thought he meant any multi-weights at "operating temps". If they are all *-w30 then yes thats correct. When you said disregard the numbers, I should have read more closely what numbers you were disregarding. Ooops.
Jeez, I just read your followup post. I didnt mean to make you turn into "cut and paste Professor". Holy @#$%.
Jeez, I just read your followup post. I didnt mean to make you turn into "cut and paste Professor". Holy @#$%.
Not taking into consideration subtle differences from one oil to the next, then yes, I am saying exactly that.
At 100* C, a 0w30 will act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, a 10w30 will also act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, you can completely disregard the first number (before the w).
At 100* C, a 0w30 will act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, a 10w30 will also act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, you can completely disregard the first number (before the w).
