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Mobil 1?!?!?

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Old 10-11-2007, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GT Griller
lol...i had a buddy with the same situation 160k on the car when the engine blew (to much spray) but it ran damn strong up until it went boom...on the other hand by 160k miles he had gone thru 6 trannies....He just loves the spray and doesnt beleive in window switches. and im talking constantly spraying not just at the track.....that car took a beating and he definatey got his moneys worth out of it.
Haven't every sprayed mine. Too afraid too. My tranny is still holding up, but people always are in awe when I tell them I do 12's with a stock internal A4. I'm sure I'm on borrowed time with it doing 1.70 60s, but when it finally goes, it will be an excuse to get it rebuilt with the good stuff anyway.
Old 10-11-2007, 03:17 PM
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i have always ran mobil 1 5w/ 30 in every vehicle since 1995 and never had a prob. i have a WS6 w/ 116,000 and a GMC sierra w/ 310,000 and still going strong just like rthe day it was bought new i also had a 95 m6 vette which came from the factory w/ mobile 1 5/30 seems to be good enough to take the extreme abuse i through at it and i have been known to go over the 3,000 mile mark a few times

the oil aint the prob. atleast not for me i love it.
Old 10-11-2007, 03:30 PM
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What oil filter(s) were you using all these years?
Old 10-11-2007, 06:28 PM
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Im a Mobil 1 guy, I like it, I guess. But I have a question. What the heck is the difference between German Castrol and Castrol? are they different? Do you get a Hitler figurine in the German Castrol? No, seriously, I hear everyone say German Castrol, so whats the difference. Ive been debating change, sounds like everyone here love the Castrol.
Old 10-11-2007, 11:16 PM
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Im a fan of mobil too I run it in my 93 mercedes my 06 lexus and my 02 camaro. even my 62 nova and my 56 chevy.I cant say how well it performs under pressure the only cars that eats it up are my 62 and my z.
Old 10-11-2007, 11:23 PM
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I wanted to test mobil vs some royal so i went with mobil a little while back. Changed the oil reset the life meter and all. Less than 3 k miles the change engine oil light was coming on and i could feel a sluggish feel from the truck.
Went back to Royal and the sluggish feel went away. I've also ran royal up to 11k miles and never had the change engine oil display show it's ugly little face.
Old 10-11-2007, 11:37 PM
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I dont think that light comes on cause of the condition of the oil but more of a preset time or something....ive changed the oil and had the light come on like 2 days later.
Old 10-12-2007, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Smokin00WS6
Im a Mobil 1 guy, I like it, I guess. But I have a question. What the heck is the difference between German Castrol and Castrol? are they different? Do you get a Hitler figurine in the German Castrol? No, seriously, I hear everyone say German Castrol, so whats the difference. Ive been debating change, sounds like everyone here love the Castrol.
Hah! No figurine, but the formulation is different between the two. I think the german castrol has "made in germany" or "product of germany" on the back. Cant remember when I bought it last. Autozone carried it for a time.

I tried GC, but was not that impressed; seemed to burn more - Not very scientific analysis on my part, but I ended up switching back to M1. Lots of ppl have good oil analysis to back up GC claims, however.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TouchOfEvil04
I wanted to test mobil vs some royal so i went with mobil a little while back. Changed the oil reset the life meter and all. Less than 3 k miles the change engine oil light was coming on and i could feel a sluggish feel from the truck.
Went back to Royal and the sluggish feel went away. I've also ran royal up to 11k miles and never had the change engine oil display show it's ugly little face.
Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know
when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based
on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not
on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage
at which an oil change will be indicated can vary
considerably. For the oil life system to work properly,
you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.

The system has now way of knowing what oil is in the engine or if it even has oil. It is simply an algorithm. You do have another system that tells you if you low on oil.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by windshear
The system has now way of knowing what oil is in the engine or if it even has oil. It is simply an algorithm. You do have another system that tells you if you low on oil.
Not really a system...it's a piece of cork on a stick haha.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldfinger911
What weight and type of Mobil 1 oil were you using? Just curious.

Not to say that you did this, but it blows me away how so many people think that they can run a 0w- oil and rev the **** out of their LSx engine with no adverse affects. I just got done reading a bunch of oil related threads and was curious. Thats all. Good luck with your new shortblock bro. Keep us posted.

Forgot to include: I run Mobil1 15w50 Extended Performance and a Mobil1 filter.
It blows me away how many people like you don't understand what the 0w means...
Old 10-12-2007, 01:44 PM
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eril is eril, the main difference (the way I understand it) in synthetics is the additives. Thats y m1 has the 15000k mi stuff, the additives are formulated to last longer.

You have to use some judgement. IE, I'm going to change my eril before and after 3 days at vir. Prob even add a qt or so during the weekend, NBD.

The car's computer didn't tell me to change the oil after a season of hpde's, 14 track days, but I definately changed it after every event w/o resetting the computer. So what's going by the computer mean? Nothing. But is oil bad after winding it out a few of times, I personally don't think so.

Dragonlovers avatar is the best....could watch that all day
Old 10-12-2007, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 01pewterbird
It blows me away how many people like you don't understand what the 0w means...
Agreed!

0w has no bearing on the oil viscosity at operating temps. 0w30, 5w30,10w30 or straight 30 wt will all have the same viscosity at 100*C. The w number indicated the weight the oil acts like at freezing (0* C). Once it warms up, you can disregard that number completely.
Old 10-12-2007, 02:19 PM
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So your implying that no matter what the weight of a multi-viscosity oil, at operating temps, they are all the same? If so, you better double check your facts before stating that.

Damn, sorry to hijack the thread. I will stop.

Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Agreed!

0w has no bearing on the oil viscosity at operating temps. 0w30, 5w30,10w30 or straight 30 wt will all have the same viscosity at 100*C. The w number indicated the weight the oil acts like at freezing (0* C). Once it warms up, you can disregard that number completely.
Old 10-12-2007, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldfinger911
So your implying that no matter what the weight of a multi-viscosity oil, at operating temps, they are all the same? If so, you better double check your facts before stating that.

Damn, sorry to hijack the thread. I will stop.
Not taking into consideration subtle differences from one oil to the next, then yes, I am saying exactly that.

At 100* C, a 0w30 will act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, a 10w30 will also act as a 30wt oil

At 100* C, you can completely disregard the first number (before the w).

Originally Posted by WikiPedia.com
The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F). The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature.
Old 10-12-2007, 02:40 PM
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Guits is 100% right.
Old 10-12-2007, 02:41 PM
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And more from valvoline:

Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures. In other words, multigrade oils are formulated to pass viscosity tests across a range of weights. For example, 10W30 meets the requirements for 10-weight at cold temperatures and 30-weight at high temps.
More from Castrol:

Oil thins when heated and thickens when cooled. Choosing the proper motor oil viscosity grade for the ambient temperature of your geographic location is therefore vitally important.

In a monograde oil the motor oil viscosity is defined at only one temperature, either high or low. A multigrade must keep a viscosity that will protect the engine effectively at both high and low temperatures.

This makes multigrades an easy and popular year-round choice for drivers who experience hot summers and harsh winters. Multigrades are easily recognized by the dual viscosity rating (i.e. 10W-30 where the 10W is the low temperature or winter designation and the 30 is the high temperature designation). It is the motor oil viscosity modifier additive that produces a thickening effect at high temperatures but is dormant at low temperatures.
More from how Stuff Works

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
Do you want me to go on?
Old 10-12-2007, 02:49 PM
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I am not diggin' Mobil 1 either. Long story short - I was getting ready to put in some Royal Purple in my car when I had this piece of metal stuck on the oil plug. I went to the store and bought this cheap *** oil jus' so I could fill it up and take it to the dealer. (I wasn't going to waste my Royal Purple only to have them drop the oil pan and dump my new RP oil!) Anyways, I started it up and it was super quiet with the cheap non-brand oil. Mobil 1 makes too much noise. I don't know if it caused my Spun Bearing or not but I think it's on the thin side of oils. Besides, it says Synthetic Blend? Does that mean it's not fully synthetic?
Old 10-12-2007, 04:56 PM
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My bad. I miss read your original post where he named off all *-w30 weights. I thought he meant any multi-weights at "operating temps". If they are all *-w30 then yes thats correct. When you said disregard the numbers, I should have read more closely what numbers you were disregarding. Ooops.


Jeez, I just read your followup post. I didnt mean to make you turn into "cut and paste Professor". Holy @#$%.




Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Not taking into consideration subtle differences from one oil to the next, then yes, I am saying exactly that.

At 100* C, a 0w30 will act as a 30wt oil
At 100* C, a 10w30 will also act as a 30wt oil

At 100* C, you can completely disregard the first number (before the w).
Old 10-12-2007, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldfinger911
Jeez, I just read your followup post. I didnt mean to make you turn into "cut and paste Professor". Holy @#$%.
Its easy to take personal offense when somebody says "you better double check your facts before stating that."

Anyway, glad we can agree on it now...



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