Ideas for removing harmonic balancer????
Ideas for removing harmonic balancer???? Started taking apart my C5 to put a new cam in it this weekend. Need suggestions on removing the balancer.
So far I've used a 3-arm puller and succeeded in snapping 4 or so bolts on the puller. After upgrading to Grade 5 hardened bolts I snapped off ears from the puller
After reading some old threads on LS1 Tech, I picked up a OEM GM/Chrysler puller from Autozone
The rod that came with it is too short. Tried to use a push rod, but it bent like a pretzel.
So....any ideas/suggestions for removing the balancer?
So far I've used a 3-arm puller and succeeded in snapping 4 or so bolts on the puller. After upgrading to Grade 5 hardened bolts I snapped off ears from the puller
After reading some old threads on LS1 Tech, I picked up a OEM GM/Chrysler puller from Autozone
The rod that came with it is too short. Tried to use a push rod, but it bent like a pretzel.
So....any ideas/suggestions for removing the balancer?
I bought my puller off the Cornwell truck at work, cost me 78.95$ and its part number is LS49500. Worked great for me, I had to use the largest rod, but had no problems removing the balancer.
LOL, well my 3 jaw harbor freight puller is now a one-jaw puller. About as usefull as a one legged man in an *** kicken contest.
I used the 'chrysler' puller from autozone last week, came off easy.
I removed the pulley bolt and used a fat short socket as a spacer against the crank - maybe it was a 19mm. Then after the pulley was out a bit I swapped in a deep socket to finish the job.
I would never use those skinny rods as a spacer.
I removed the pulley bolt and used a fat short socket as a spacer against the crank - maybe it was a 19mm. Then after the pulley was out a bit I swapped in a deep socket to finish the job.
I would never use those skinny rods as a spacer.
The puller bolt didn't mushroom from pushing against the socket?
I thought about doing something like that, but figured the end of the bolt pushing against something would be too much friction....hmmm might be worth a second look.
I thought about doing something like that, but figured the end of the bolt pushing against something would be too much friction....hmmm might be worth a second look.
I used the 'chrysler' puller from autozone last week, came off easy.
I removed the pulley bolt and used a fat short socket as a spacer against the crank - maybe it was a 19mm. Then after the pulley was out a bit I swapped in a deep socket to finish the job.
I would never use those skinny rods as a spacer.
I removed the pulley bolt and used a fat short socket as a spacer against the crank - maybe it was a 19mm. Then after the pulley was out a bit I swapped in a deep socket to finish the job.
I would never use those skinny rods as a spacer.
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No damage to the bolt or the socket. Someone posted about doing it this way a while back. It took a few tries to get all 3 puller arms to stay on while keeping the socket in there and hand tightening the bolt down enough so it all stayed in place. A second set of hands would have helped with the set up.
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Hey, I got the autozone puller and it too had a rod that was a bit short, but I just threaded in a longer bolt where the old crank bolt used to be and it came out really smooth. The bolt I used was M16x2.0 pitchx120mm long, this also helps keeping you from stripping the crank threads when having the stock crank bolt threaded in half way trying to pull the pulley off.
Here is a pic of the longer bolt waiting for the pulley -
This also helped me -
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 (last section in part 1)
Cheers and good luck!
Here is a pic of the longer bolt waiting for the pulley -
This also helped me -
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 (last section in part 1)
Cheers and good luck!
Well fellas I finally got the cursed balancer off tonight.
Many thanks to my friends here on LS1tech, Jack D., and Mr. Adams. Couldn't have done it without you guys.
Ended up using a socket (as suggested) for a spacer. Needing some addtional length (haven't heard that one before,mind ya) I had to put in a 1/4 to 3/8 socket adapter in the socket to make room.
Here's a before and after shot of the pulley remover that I rented. If anyone gets this unit after me, please, please don't hold me accountable for the condition it's in.....it's all GMs fault
Before
AFTER
Many thanks to my friends here on LS1tech, Jack D., and Mr. Adams. Couldn't have done it without you guys.
Ended up using a socket (as suggested) for a spacer. Needing some addtional length (haven't heard that one before,mind ya) I had to put in a 1/4 to 3/8 socket adapter in the socket to make room.
Here's a before and after shot of the pulley remover that I rented. If anyone gets this unit after me, please, please don't hold me accountable for the condition it's in.....it's all GMs fault
Before
AFTER
the autozone one is about the easiest way to go. i turned a little spacer in a lathe to push against that sits on the end of the crank, works awsome. damn should sell these things, lol, who wants to buy one!?!?!?!
I use a BIG allen head cap screw with some large flat washer. I put the cap screw in the hole after removing the crank bolt. The puller rod buck up against the cap screw and the allen head forces the puller rod to be self-centering. If the puller rod is long enough you shouldn't need an extension.
man your guys autozone sucks mine had a 2/3 arm puller and the screw was super long like if I remember maybe about 6" long, Crankshaft pulley was super easy, now the timing chain collar now that was a bitch to get off, arms at the wrong angle, nothing a little steel wire couldnt solve
I used the 'chrysler' puller from autozone last week, came off easy.
I removed the pulley bolt and used a fat short socket as a spacer against the crank - maybe it was a 19mm. Then after the pulley was out a bit I swapped in a deep socket to finish the job.
I would never use those skinny rods as a spacer.
I removed the pulley bolt and used a fat short socket as a spacer against the crank - maybe it was a 19mm. Then after the pulley was out a bit I swapped in a deep socket to finish the job.
I would never use those skinny rods as a spacer.
i did exactly the same when i was pulling the stock harmonic balancer. is that what you have, gar?
how are things in Indi, bro?
i just changed cams. the first one did not even have 400 miles in it. LOL
went with the original streetsweeper, and milled the heads to 59cc. LOVE IT!!
PS:just saw you pulled it. lol
I have the SOLUTION. I bought a plug that is about an 1 1/4 wide that has just enough room for the puller to spin in it. Its some heavy duty **** that only costed 2 bucks. I tried using washers and those bent all to hell.
I also made the puller as short as possible. My balancer came of with zero problems. I bought the 3 arm puller from advance, if it breaks, they give you a new one.
I also made the puller as short as possible. My balancer came of with zero problems. I bought the 3 arm puller from advance, if it breaks, they give you a new one.
+1
i did exactly the same when i was pulling the stock harmonic balancer. is that what you have, gar?
how are things in Indi, bro?
i just changed cams. the first one did not even have 400 miles in it. LOL
went with the original streetsweeper, and milled the heads to 59cc. LOVE IT!!
PS:just saw you pulled it. lol
i did exactly the same when i was pulling the stock harmonic balancer. is that what you have, gar?
how are things in Indi, bro?
i just changed cams. the first one did not even have 400 miles in it. LOL
went with the original streetsweeper, and milled the heads to 59cc. LOVE IT!!
PS:just saw you pulled it. lol
Can't believe you changed cams so soon. I need to talk you into get FI'd that way I could pick up all your discard parts. LOL