Cam???
Cam??? Ok so to some of you this may seem like a very stupid question but I am truely at a loss here. I recently went to the dyno to get my car tuned for nitrous after the install. The numbers seemed extremely high not only to me but everyone else I know. Before I tell you what the numbers were let me tell you about the car. I bought this 2000 T/A Firehawk with 15000 miles back in 03. It already had catback borla, sub-frames, line lock, nitrous kit, and drag radials on it. The dealership took off the line lock , drag radials and the nitrous before I could even see the car. I know that this stuff was on it before through my own investigation.( ground down calipers, holes for nitrous and line lock switches, not to mention the holes in the trunk that were patched by the dealer) My car has the listed mods below and it dyno'ed at 393HP and 388TQ. We did three runs and they were all about the same range.
This was on a mustang dyno and we entered all the information correctly. My friends have dyno'ed their ls1's on the same dyno and gotten much lower numbes to the tune of 330-350hp. Of course I will be taking it back down there soon since my fuel pump couldn't keep up with the nitrous tune causing the fuel pressure safety switch to shut off the nitrous at 4400rpm, still the car on spray ran 427HP and 494 TQ. Is there any way to find out if my car has head work or a cam in it?? Why else would it be so high N/A? I appreciate all your advice and look forward to your input. I am installing a new fuel pump this week and will be back down at the dyno in a matter of weeks.
This was on a mustang dyno and we entered all the information correctly. My friends have dyno'ed their ls1's on the same dyno and gotten much lower numbes to the tune of 330-350hp. Of course I will be taking it back down there soon since my fuel pump couldn't keep up with the nitrous tune causing the fuel pressure safety switch to shut off the nitrous at 4400rpm, still the car on spray ran 427HP and 494 TQ. Is there any way to find out if my car has head work or a cam in it?? Why else would it be so high N/A? I appreciate all your advice and look forward to your input. I am installing a new fuel pump this week and will be back down at the dyno in a matter of weeks.
there really isn't any way to tell if you have head work without pulling the heads. you may be able to determine your compression...but that doesn't tell you much.
similar for the cam. without pulling it out.. who knows. you may be able to determine the lift by measuring it at the rocker...but even that doesnt tell you much.
but honestly...390rwhp on a mustang dyno....you have some kind of cam and heads...that's FOR SURE
similar for the cam. without pulling it out.. who knows. you may be able to determine the lift by measuring it at the rocker...but even that doesnt tell you much.
but honestly...390rwhp on a mustang dyno....you have some kind of cam and heads...that's FOR SURE
it could have a smaller cam like a reverse split cam which works well w/ stock heads and have a higher lobe seperation like a 114.
but ya definatly got something in ther ew/ those #'s
but ya definatly got something in ther ew/ those #'s
Put it on a dyno jet and you'll know for sure.. I've seen too many times mustang dynos reading really optimistic #'s... have you taken the car to the track, do you annihlate your friends with their bolt on ls1's?
I am taking my car to the track friday night. Without drag radials I have no idea how well it will do. I have heard that usually mustang dyno's read lower than dyno-jets? The guy that did the tune on my car said he bought that specific dyno because it was more accurate. Upon further inspection of the motor, I and several others have determined that the intake manifold bolts have been removed, and a side by side comparison with another ls1 it sounded a little different than his. I haven't really raced any of my ls1 friends but I'm sure I will on friday. I guess there really is no way of knowing without taking the motor apart which I will do one day when time and money allow. Until then screw it the car is fast and I'm happy.
Oh yeah and I have raced on the 1/8 mile before, without losing traction the car ran a 7.99@87mph, this was before the long tubes, pro 5.0, centerforce clutch, N20, Dyno tune, smooth bellow, or LCA's.
Oh yeah and I have raced on the 1/8 mile before, without losing traction the car ran a 7.99@87mph, this was before the long tubes, pro 5.0, centerforce clutch, N20, Dyno tune, smooth bellow, or LCA's.
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I am taking my car to the track friday night. Without drag radials I have no idea how well it will do. I have heard that usually mustang dyno's read lower than dyno-jets? The guy that did the tune on my car said he bought that specific dyno because it was more accurate. Upon further inspection of the motor, I and several others have determined that the intake manifold bolts have been removed, and a side by side comparison with another ls1 it sounded a little different than his. I haven't really raced any of my ls1 friends but I'm sure I will on friday. I guess there really is no way of knowing without taking the motor apart which I will do one day when time and money allow. Until then screw it the car is fast and I'm happy.
Oh yeah and I have raced on the 1/8 mile before, without losing traction the car ran a 7.99@87mph, this was before the long tubes, pro 5.0, centerforce clutch, N20, Dyno tune, smooth bellow, or LCA's.
Oh yeah and I have raced on the 1/8 mile before, without losing traction the car ran a 7.99@87mph, this was before the long tubes, pro 5.0, centerforce clutch, N20, Dyno tune, smooth bellow, or LCA's.
87 mph trap in the 1/8th isn't that impressive, my 98 a4 full bolt on w/ ls1 intake and stock pulley ran 8.1 @ 88, so the track #'s don't lead me to believe it has any excessive amounts of power.
Let us know how it does at the track though, I am definately curious! Good luck!
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