How much money do you have in your car to get it to go FAST!!!???
11-08-2007, 10:21 AM
#22
I am new to the "new" tech on motors. Just wondering how much money does everyone have in there LS1 motors and what is there 1/4 mile time. I have been reading ALOT. and trying to figure what 10k will get me. So far I am guessing I will hit high 10s with doing most of my own work. If you guys could shed some light that would be great.
hope I posted this in the right place
hope I posted this in the right place
And it is sitting in my garage not moving....
11-08-2007, 10:57 AM
#23
10k will get you a fast car.....problem is fast cars keep needing money. I could have bought C5 Z06 with cash for the money I have into my car and that doesn't count the 40k the previous owner had in it.
You just have to pick a goal and go with it, if you want a drag racer though suspension and tires are your biggest friend and where I would put my money first. Then a 12 bolt, tranny and converter. Then Headers and cam, you could have a very quick car with traction.
You just have to pick a goal and go with it, if you want a drag racer though suspension and tires are your biggest friend and where I would put my money first. Then a 12 bolt, tranny and converter. Then Headers and cam, you could have a very quick car with traction.
11-08-2007, 11:41 AM
#24
well. right now i have a little over 15k in mine including purchase price, but i bought it with A LOT of things already done. which i didn't want to do this in the first place, but i fell in love with the car and just had to take it home.
if i add up all the parts i have, i'd say a touch over 13k just in the mods.
if i add up all the parts i have, i'd say a touch over 13k just in the mods.
11-08-2007, 12:06 PM
#26
Staging Lane
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It all depends on what your after. Do you want a dependable daily driver that runs 10's or a drag queen?
The drag car is cheaper. Shocks, tires, rear, weight reduction, move battery, n2o is the cheapest power add.
Daily driver is much more expensive. You don’t have the luxury of weight transfer so you really need a proper built heads and cam combo or an expensive power add like s/c or turbo. 10k wont get you into the 10’s in a DD street car but should/could in a dedicated drag car.
Also you can save money on used parts vs new which will help
The drag car is cheaper. Shocks, tires, rear, weight reduction, move battery, n2o is the cheapest power add.
Daily driver is much more expensive. You don’t have the luxury of weight transfer so you really need a proper built heads and cam combo or an expensive power add like s/c or turbo. 10k wont get you into the 10’s in a DD street car but should/could in a dedicated drag car.
Also you can save money on used parts vs new which will help
As far as what kind of car I am looking for I have a garage where the camaro sleeps in where the weather won't hurt it. It will only get driven to car shows and a few miles on the perfect day. It will mainly be for the track. For the street legal thing it will be barely if at all. For the amount of miles I am projecting to put on the car while on a standard road im not going to lose sleep over a ticket for the car not being alllll legal. I live in a semi rural area.
Someone posted about m6 or a4 i choose the a4 b/c of ONE REASON the person who sleeps with me at night. She can't drive a stick. plus she wants to be the hot bit
ch in the cool car
11-08-2007, 12:27 PM
#27
The stall makes it easier at the track as well. You should be able to get a pretty good package for that price. You need a 12 bolt and the right shocks.. Hals I think are the better choice for drag shocks. Wheels and tires, and then do some massive weight reduction. Roll bar? Probably a trans rebuild to take the abuse. Then have a short block built, size determined by whats left in the budget minus heads. 402-416 is like 4300-5300. Look for some good used heads
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 11-08-2007 at 12:33 PM.
11-08-2007, 01:16 PM
#29
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you need springs and **** with a new cam, a cam alone is 389 bucks from comp cams... my parts costed me like... 1100, i got the oil pump and double chain deal but even without that just for new springs and some seats and seals it was 720 bucks. And to answer your question i have about $6,000 into my car and i went a 12.04 at 114.7, and my car was also short shifting. (im automatic) so itll be in the 11's when thats fixed. The real problem is not making the power but the step from where im at, to 10's is alot in drivetrain and needing a new rear.
11-08-2007, 04:15 PM
#30
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You can go 10's in an A4 with a converter and a hole saw. It comes down to how streetable you want the car to be when its all said and done. If your looking for a trailer queen then its a lot easier to run that number.
11-08-2007, 04:44 PM
#31
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My daily drive is a 85 c-10 with a "fake" cat and glass pack on it. I took off all of the smog bs egr and any other hoses and parts that aren't on any of the classics i own/have owned
11-08-2007, 05:01 PM
#32
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^^^
i think what they mean is like suspension, and weight reduction. you can do a **** load of weight reduction on the vehicle, and some good suspension mods. but the suspension is gunna be loud, and not meant for cornering or anything. strictly track. also slicks, and skinnies. they can be DD i have before. but u cant do it in the rain. so that takes away streetability. also when choosing mods for the car. not alot of them are fun to DD.. like for example. a huge stall would be good for track.. but not for stop light to stoplight. see where im going with this?
i think what they mean is like suspension, and weight reduction. you can do a **** load of weight reduction on the vehicle, and some good suspension mods. but the suspension is gunna be loud, and not meant for cornering or anything. strictly track. also slicks, and skinnies. they can be DD i have before. but u cant do it in the rain. so that takes away streetability. also when choosing mods for the car. not alot of them are fun to DD.. like for example. a huge stall would be good for track.. but not for stop light to stoplight. see where im going with this?
11-08-2007, 05:37 PM
#33
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^^^
i think what they mean is like suspension, and weight reduction. you can do a **** load of weight reduction on the vehicle, and some good suspension mods. but the suspension is gunna be loud, and not meant for cornering or anything. strictly track. also slicks, and skinnies. they can be DD i have before. but u cant do it in the rain. so that takes away streetability. also when choosing mods for the car. not alot of them are fun to DD.. like for example. a huge stall would be good for track.. but not for stop light to stoplight. see where im going with this?
i think what they mean is like suspension, and weight reduction. you can do a **** load of weight reduction on the vehicle, and some good suspension mods. but the suspension is gunna be loud, and not meant for cornering or anything. strictly track. also slicks, and skinnies. they can be DD i have before. but u cant do it in the rain. so that takes away streetability. also when choosing mods for the car. not alot of them are fun to DD.. like for example. a huge stall would be good for track.. but not for stop light to stoplight. see where im going with this?
thanks for the light didn't even consider suspension, stall, tires, etc. i remeber what its like driving a car meant for the strip home from a show in the rain. I ended up calling a friend to come and pick me up with a car trailer after a couple 180s
11-08-2007, 06:31 PM
#35
IMO when you start sttipping the car down ,the car seems like junk because you hear everything because you took all the insulation out ,things start to rattle, the cars a lot louder inside , this all takes away form the streetability for me .
11-08-2007, 10:15 PM
#36
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point well noted. but the real question how load and how much rattle can one individual handle
11-08-2007, 10:27 PM
#37
do the right full bolt ons, cam, stall 4.10's in the stock rear, and spray 150 shot and you will do 10's... my buddy is doing it right now with his car... but it didnt last forever.
lol as for my car, its VERY streetable with the tune, ran 11.70's full weight, and things were still not fully right. now that i think i got everything in line, i dont see why 11.50's are not out of the question... and a small shot would put me into the 10's, and small being 100, with the right tuning it should last for a while also.
lol as for my car, its VERY streetable with the tune, ran 11.70's full weight, and things were still not fully right. now that i think i got everything in line, i dont see why 11.50's are not out of the question... and a small shot would put me into the 10's, and small being 100, with the right tuning it should last for a while also.
