Shoaf85

iTrader: (9)

I have some ported 241 casting heads w/ PRC dual springs and a G5x3 cam on stock bottom end. I am probably going to run out of gear(4th) at the track aftger swapping to a 3.90 and was wondering if I could bump my rev limit up a little to allow for a few more mph! Btw I am revving to 6500-6600 now!

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I wouldn't unless I upgraded to ARP bolts.

john563

iTrader: (17)

I put in katechs,just in case I go with a bigger cam.So I would say put in rod bolts just to be safe.

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

with ARP rod bolts I rev my stock bottom end to 7200rpm. Shifting at 7000.

angelR

iTrader: (7)

Mine goes to 7k semi regularly

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

If that's on a 112 LSA, it'll fall off, requiring you to shift around 6600 anyway. If it's on a 114, I've seen them hold out to 7200rpm. So if you bought it and it holds out that long, use it. If you don't, then you should've gone 112 so it blows its wad earlier.

Dragkid1917

iTrader: (2)

I guess your M6 cuz with 3.90 gears i still wouldnt be max in my A4. My car's limiter is set to 6800 rpm, its supposed to shift at about 6700, the peak h/p is about 65-6600. Right now it shifts at 6400 cuz the computer is off, or the tach isnt saying the right number. But my bottom end is stock with 99K miles. Obeviously upgrading rod bolts would be beneficial, but.. As long as your only looking at 6800-7000 on the track (or a few times on the road) I really wouldnt worry about it. Id be more afraid of my rear breaking.

Shoaf85

iTrader: (9)

The car is a MN6 car and the rear is built already and to the other post the cam is a 114 lsa mainly for nitrous but I was considering bumping it up to 6800-7000 only if I need to at the track only in order for me not to shift into 5th gear. I will still probably shift around 6600, but I could run 4th out a little more if needed!

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

your not going to max out 4th ill put money on that! TO max out your 4th gear in the quarter mile I hope your car traps over 140mph LOL! I just never seen a H/C C5 max out 4 gear with h/c and 3.90 gears

Shoaf85

iTrader: (9)

LOL, I'm spraying the car man, I know it wont do it on motor! And no, fourth gear will end right at 130 mph with a 3.90 gear. I have checked it on the street and even a gear/speed calculator will show a 3.90 gear and 1:1 ratio(4th) w/ a 26" tire @ 6500 rpms ending just before 130 mph!

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

IMO, its hit or miss whether you got the upgraded rod bolts since it happened mid year. Arent the pans easier to get out on a vette? If so, just do the rod bolts like everyone said.

j200pruf

iTrader: (1)

So rod bolts are the weak link in the bottom end, is there anything else in the bottom end that should be replaced if running up near ~6800rpm, minus more expensive stuff like rods and cranks?

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

That's it.

John02Hawk

iTrader: (4)

Okay guys, I am doing a cam only swap and plan on my shift points being at 6600 or 6700. I will be putting in some 7.125 push rods also.. I only ordered the standard installation kit too with a new gm harmonic bolt... Do you guys think I will NEED one of these? Are these the arp bolts you guys were referring to? Any additional information/explanation would be greatly appreciated.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Yup, thats the company.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

For 6800, I'd say ARP or Katech rod bolts and 3/8" pushrods for longterm durability. Higher than that, add Crane/Morel/Caddy lifters, lightweight valvetrain, proper valvesprings, and insure proper valvetrain geometry. If you have the extra funds, look at a lightweight rotating assembly also.

John02Hawk

iTrader: (4)

My bad, I meant to say that I ordered 7.425 pushrods, not 7.125...

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I bounce mine off high end of the tach every chance I get, but, it's forged.

Asmodeus

if you have an 01 or 02 you don't need to worry about changing out the rod bolts.

John02Hawk

iTrader: (4)

I heard the same thing.. that the 01 & 02 ls1 cars had stronger rod bolts.. Good deal.