Patman

Right on the Blackstone report it says 6125 miles on the engine, 3125 miles on the oil.

So like I said, you cannot compare wear numbers on a fresh engine to one that's got more miles on it.

I guarantee you that if 10 people on here use Royal Purple, and 10 people use Redline, and post their UOA reports, the superiority of Redline will be quite clear.

But I have a feeling I'm never going to convince you of that, and you definitely will never convince me that Royal Purple is better. I've seen far too much evidence to the contrary. So we'll just have to agree to disagree here. I still wish you'd make the drive down to Toronto to hang out with us Toronto f-body guys sometime! I promise not to talk about oil when you're here!

We'll be at St.Thomas dragstrip tomorrow for our first of four events (next one after this is July 19th-you should make plans to come down!)

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

I'm not going to argue an assumption.

I'll definitely make it down there one time this summer for an event. The 19th may be do-able. I have to check the schedule for the dates I'm playing with Nanette Workman. Ever heard of her? She's the high voice on the Stones' "Honky Tonk Woman" Her and Madeleine Bell did all the backup vocals on the "let It Bleed " album. Keep me posted on any other events that may be happening too. PS: We'll settle it al with a heads up race.

Shane

That's my oil report. 3k when the oil was put in, and 6k when it came out. 2 autocrosses, and the rest city stop&go commute traffic. I refilled it with Redline, and will be changing it in the next month or so when it hits 10K (4k on the oil). We'll see what the numbers look like then...
Shane

robertbartsch

If you use crappy oil, I think that your car will be a pile of junk before your bad oil causes enough wear to trash the engine too....

...Why worry ...when the rear view mirror falls off in your hand, it is time to buy another car... hopefully at that point in time you have not just changed your oil...

Patman

Robert, you do have a good point, even with slightly higher wear numbers, the engine will still probably last longer than most people keep their cars. But for those aiming for 250k on their engines, picking the right oil is critical.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

LOL I have 4300 miles on my new stroker and I am already planning my next motor!!

Brains

iTrader: (7)

I wanna know WTF is up with RP turning into a flaky (YES!) mess on the inside of a timing cover in UNDER 3000 MILES !!! The car was bought used at 44k, and almost immediately got a cam installed. Everything looked clean. Switch oil from whatever previous owner used to Mobil1 5W30 . Fast forward to ~50k'ish when the car gets heads. Pull everything apart, verything looks GREAT!! Cyl. walls nice and pretty, yadda yadda. Fast forward to ~73k, switch to RP 5W30 (sticking with factory recommendations here). Forward to ~75k, time for a bigger cam. Pull timing cover, which was PERFECTLY clean at last removal, and is now FLAKING with some ugly *** reddish/purplish crap.

I did a heads/cam install on a 90k+ car the guy religiously used RP (unknown weight). I almost refused the job because of the reddish/purplish coating and sludge buildup in the motor.

My personal car, bought brand new. 1st oil change at 1200 miles to Mobil 1, 5W30. Install cam at 46k, everything looks perfect. Install heads, bigger cam at 63k, everything looks perfect. Get saucy with 7200 RPM shift points, #2 rod decides to trim the crank down .010 (bolt stretched badly), rest of the motor looks perfect.

So, in my highly scientific experience (ie. blank stares looking at engine internals while swapping parts) I'd say the two motors with RP looked like CRAP, while the M1 motors looked great. I guarantee I won't waste my money on RP, but wouldn't mind hearing what's equiv/better than M1 ... Also, what viscosity is recommended for a Texas climate on a stock bottom end? How about a built motor?

robertbartsch

If you want your motor to last 250K miles, you bought the wrong car; it should have been a Honda not a GM car....I drove several Hondas in that range with no engine work except replacement of the timing belts, spark plugs, wires, etc....

ChrisB

I saw exactly the same thing on my LT1 - which is why I will not run royal purple again. Ran mobile 1 for ~ 60k miles (until they switched the formulation last time), and ran RP for 35k. I changed the oil/filter every 3k or less, and when I pulled the motor it seemed like almost every surface was anodized/coated with a purple-brown sheen. The valvecovers/timing chain cover/heads(top) never looked like that with Mobile 1....

I will see if I can dig up an old oil analysis, but nothing was abnormal/notable - no coolant, fuel, low insolubles.

The motor itself looked good (bearings/cylinder walls) - but good god did RP leave some sort of crap coating on everything (it didn't seem like sludge as it was very thin and uniform, and seemed almost bonded to every metal surface).

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Here is a 3K+ interval analysis of RP #41 done on a LS1 Camaro belonging to a friend of mine. Mileage on the car was 20K


Silicon - 9.0
Potassium - 7.1
Sodium - 3.7
Fuel% - <2.0
Glycol%- <.02
Water% - <0.1
Nitration - 50
Boron - 0.0
Calcium - 2627
Magnesium - 7.7
Moly - 141
Sodium - 3.7
Phosphorous - 1060
Antimony - 2.7
Zinc - 1888
Vis @ 100C - 14.54
Oxidation - 35
TBN - 7.38
Iron - 3.1
Nickel - 0.5
Chromium - 1.0
Titanium - 0.2
Copper - 104
Aluminum - 4.6
Tin - 0.0
Lead - 3.0
Silver - 0.0

Patman

Now that is an impressive report there Stevie! You can see their race oils offer more antiwear protection too, that zinc level is more than twice the normal amount, and the moly level is a bit higher too (normal for RP street oil is closer to 100ppm) This version didn't thin out either, which is nice to see. Perhaps RP needs to drop it's 5w30/10w30 lineup and simply offer the race oils only. Although this race oil here wouldn't pass API certification with that zinc level, it's over the 1000ppm limit.

Robert, how do you figure these engines won't go 250k? I think that if you stay relatively close to stock, there is no problem for either the LT1 or LS1 to go this far. I'm hoping to get this amount of mileage out of my LT1, that way I can save my $$$ for the 97-99 C5 I plan on buying in a few years. And I plan on getting 250k or more out of that engine too.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Mobil 10-30w works great in my car and I have no problems at all with this oil. Why is not recomened with the LS1 Patman , my LT1 looked great when we took it apart to mod it ???? Doesnt the C5 come with mobil 1 just want to know the facts because this is the oil I use with all 3 of my GM cars. Thanks no flame intened just want to know why?

Patman

Mobil 1 is a good oil, it's just that it doesn't really show the best wear numbers in the LS1, mainly because it's a tad thinner than Redline or Amsoil and their additive packages are better. Mobil 1 does keep engines clean, but there is more to an oil than just that.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

By the way...I forgot to mention that this car sees 10lb. of nitrous a week, every week, via an NX 150 wet shot.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

By the way...I forgot to mention that this car sees 10lb. of nitrous a week, every week, via an NX 150 wet shot.

mattf2

I'm about to turn 200k w/ my S10 that has had Quaker State (gasp!) in it being changed every 5-7000 miles. A friend has a fleet of astro vans that he regularly gets 350,000 miles out of. Don't be talking that Honda crap. If you take decent care of an engine, you (generally) will get alot of miles out of it.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

What constitutes "decent care"?? Do my 8 weekly passes at the local drag strip and my redlining the car through the gears at least once a day constitute "decent care"?