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ARP MAIN STUD questions ?

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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 09:09 AM
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Default ARP MAIN STUD questions ?

well i just got my forged 347 out the shop ...
got the smart idea of instaling arp main studs on my build ,,
but now im hearing that i might need a aline hone .? this neccesery ?

and can some one give me torque specs ... all stock bolts are all pre torqued ..so im gonna pull one stock at a time and replace with the arp stud then torque to specs with the suplied moly lube and tred sealer for the block .

this sound right ? im getting readdy to do this sooon so help would be great !

oh and i have searched ! thanks guys !
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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ttt for you
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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leave the bolts in, sell the studs
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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really ?? sell the studs ?? why ?

im suree there alooot better than stocks .. i will be dumping alot of nitrouse and rpm ..anyone else ??
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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if you use the studs, you will need to get a line hone. they studs load the mains differently.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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over 800hp and 7000 rpm? if more then that, then have te block checked after the studs are installed, because it needs to be precise with that much load.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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Its a good idea to at least let someone check it with a dial bore gauge .You may or maynot have to hone it..
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 03:38 AM
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this would require pulling the whole engine apart riiight .. **** i got raped in machine work

does everyone align hone after arp mainstud install ??
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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yes, we atleast check it for out of round, hence the reason i said to leave it.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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sell the studs and buy new bolts. Do not reuse old bolts, ever. The advantage of studs are for people who tear down their engines on a frequent basis.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:41 AM
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why would you buy new? They aren't TTY
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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I went with the stockers in my build. I thought about the studs, but im not trying to break any records here, and before the studs all we had were the stockers back in the day.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 11:42 PM
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I know a guy with a procharger running 20+ pounds of boost on a forged 346,has been doing it for a while now,and he used the stock main studs on all the motors he runs and builds,so like he said above,stockers should be fine,jmo tho,goodluck!
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 06:13 AM
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**** !!

do i sell them ? lose money ?....
put them in a hope for the best ?..
take the engine have them tear the engine down again and get raped AGAIN !!??

god why arnt u a ls1tech member ?

ok .. how many of u have instaled the studs with out checking after wards?!?!
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 07:11 AM
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I ran ARP main studs in both my 408's, and didnt have to align hone either one.
Thats the beauty of knowing a good machine shop. With a "honest" machine shop (not one who will rape the unsuspecting) they will tell you if you "NEED" to do something or not. 9 out of 10 machine shops will tell you that you need "extra services"...because the average person dosen't know any better, and they make a **** ton of money in the process. Lsx style blocks have side bolts to keep the caps from walking, keep that in mind.

If your questioning it, re plastigage it for piece of mind....before you go to tearing your bottom end apart. My guess is you'll be fine.
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 408z28
I ran ARP main studs in both my 408's, and didnt have to align hone either one.
Thats the beauty of knowing a good machine shop. With a "honest" machine shop (not one who will rape the unsuspecting) they will tell you if you "NEED" to do something or not. 9 out of 10 machine shops will tell you that you need "extra services"...because the average person dosen't know any better, and they make a **** ton of money in the process. Lsx style blocks have side bolts to keep the caps from walking, keep that in mind.

If your questioning it, re plastigage it for piece of mind....before you go to tearing your bottom end apart. My guess is you'll be fine.
Keep in mind that this was on an FE block and not AL.
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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You just spent a couple grand at a machine shop, and now you are hoping you'll be fine to install them yourself? Why didn't you have the shop do it? I'm taking my studs to the shop with the block. Really, its only $150 extra labor.

Not worth just putting them in and "hoping for the best" as you put it..
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LSx007
**** !!

do i sell them ? lose money ?....
put them in a hope for the best ?..
take the engine have them tear the engine down again and get raped AGAIN !!??

god why arnt u a ls1tech member ?

ok .. how many of u have instaled the studs with out checking after wards?!?!
Honestly, id sell em.
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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The block should be align honed from beginning, thats where it all machine work is based from

Theirs a few people I know that have taken 6.0 truck blocks put main studs in them, flex honed the bores and slapped it together, haven't heard anything catastrophically damaged from assembling this way, but its not how I would build my motor.
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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You don't need to hone the mains just because you use studs. You should have had the engine builder put them in, and then you would be done. One thing for sure, it would be a big mistake to replace them one at a time. The mains need to be torqued in sequence. This is really important with an aluminum block. Either leave the stock ones in, or pull all and use the ARP and retorque in the factory sequence. Pull one at a time and you will put some weird stress in the block.
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