ARP MAIN STUD questions ?
ARP MAIN STUD questions ? well i just got my forged 347 out the shop ...
got the smart idea of instaling arp main studs on my build ,,
but now im hearing that i might need a aline hone .? this neccesery ?
and can some one give me torque specs ... all stock bolts are all pre torqued ..so im gonna pull one stock at a time and replace with the arp stud then torque to specs with the suplied moly lube and tred sealer for the block .
this sound right ? im getting readdy to do this sooon so help would be great !
oh and i have searched ! thanks guys !
got the smart idea of instaling arp main studs on my build ,,
but now im hearing that i might need a aline hone .? this neccesery ?
and can some one give me torque specs ... all stock bolts are all pre torqued ..so im gonna pull one stock at a time and replace with the arp stud then torque to specs with the suplied moly lube and tred sealer for the block .
this sound right ? im getting readdy to do this sooon so help would be great !
oh and i have searched ! thanks guys !
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I went with the stockers in my build. I thought about the studs, but im not trying to break any records here, and before the studs all we had were the stockers back in the day.
I know a guy with a procharger running 20+ pounds of boost on a forged 346,has been doing it for a while now,and he used the stock main studs on all the motors he runs and builds,so like he said above,stockers should be fine,jmo tho,goodluck!
**** !!
do i sell them ? lose money ?....
put them in a hope for the best ?..
take the engine have them tear the engine down again and get raped AGAIN !!??
god why arnt u a ls1tech member ?
ok .. how many of u have instaled the studs with out checking after wards?!?!
do i sell them ? lose money ?....
put them in a hope for the best ?..
take the engine have them tear the engine down again and get raped AGAIN !!??
god why arnt u a ls1tech member ?
ok .. how many of u have instaled the studs with out checking after wards?!?!
I ran ARP main studs in both my 408's, and didnt have to align hone either one.
Thats the beauty of knowing a good machine shop. With a "honest" machine shop (not one who will rape the unsuspecting) they will tell you if you "NEED" to do something or not. 9 out of 10 machine shops will tell you that you need "extra services"...because the average person dosen't know any better, and they make a **** ton of money in the process. Lsx style blocks have side bolts to keep the caps from walking, keep that in mind.
If your questioning it, re plastigage it for piece of mind....before you go to tearing your bottom end apart. My guess is you'll be fine.
Thats the beauty of knowing a good machine shop. With a "honest" machine shop (not one who will rape the unsuspecting) they will tell you if you "NEED" to do something or not. 9 out of 10 machine shops will tell you that you need "extra services"...because the average person dosen't know any better, and they make a **** ton of money in the process. Lsx style blocks have side bolts to keep the caps from walking, keep that in mind.
If your questioning it, re plastigage it for piece of mind....before you go to tearing your bottom end apart. My guess is you'll be fine.
I ran ARP main studs in both my 408's, and didnt have to align hone either one.
Thats the beauty of knowing a good machine shop. With a "honest" machine shop (not one who will rape the unsuspecting) they will tell you if you "NEED" to do something or not. 9 out of 10 machine shops will tell you that you need "extra services"...because the average person dosen't know any better, and they make a **** ton of money in the process. Lsx style blocks have side bolts to keep the caps from walking, keep that in mind.
If your questioning it, re plastigage it for piece of mind....before you go to tearing your bottom end apart. My guess is you'll be fine.
Thats the beauty of knowing a good machine shop. With a "honest" machine shop (not one who will rape the unsuspecting) they will tell you if you "NEED" to do something or not. 9 out of 10 machine shops will tell you that you need "extra services"...because the average person dosen't know any better, and they make a **** ton of money in the process. Lsx style blocks have side bolts to keep the caps from walking, keep that in mind.
If your questioning it, re plastigage it for piece of mind....before you go to tearing your bottom end apart. My guess is you'll be fine.
You just spent a couple grand at a machine shop, and now you are hoping you'll be fine to install them yourself? Why didn't you have the shop do it? I'm taking my studs to the shop with the block. Really, its only $150 extra labor.
Not worth just putting them in and "hoping for the best" as you put it..
Not worth just putting them in and "hoping for the best" as you put it..
Honestly, id sell em.
The block should be align honed from beginning, thats where it all machine work is based from 
Theirs a few people I know that have taken 6.0 truck blocks put main studs in them, flex honed the bores and slapped it together, haven't heard anything catastrophically damaged from assembling this way, but its not how I would build my motor.
Theirs a few people I know that have taken 6.0 truck blocks put main studs in them, flex honed the bores and slapped it together, haven't heard anything catastrophically damaged from assembling this way, but its not how I would build my motor.
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 2
From: Portland Oregon
You don't need to hone the mains just because you use studs. You should have had the engine builder put them in, and then you would be done. One thing for sure, it would be a big mistake to replace them one at a time. The mains need to be torqued in sequence. This is really important with an aluminum block. Either leave the stock ones in, or pull all and use the ARP and retorque in the factory sequence. Pull one at a time and you will put some weird stress in the block.