installing a b1 or c1 cam
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
installing a b1 or c1 cam I'm considering one of these cams one day. I know I'll be needing new springs with this cam. Would I need new pushrods and titanium retainers as well? How often would the springs need to be replaced. I was figuring on 30-40 hp, a little lope, and improved top end pull. Any other advice is appreciated.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 857
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Re: installing a b1 or c1 cam That sums up my C1 to the letter. 35 RWHP, excellent pull to the limiter, and a killer lope with a 112 LSA.
New springs, defintely. I went with the Comp 918's. Do you need Ti retainers? No. They will make the valvetrain lighter, which helps keep valve float away for a few hundred more RPM's up high. If you're not gonna see your limiter often, they are probably overkill but FWIW, I use them and I don't see high RPM's often at all. From what I hear, springs may need to be changed near 15-20K miles. Don't beat on them until they reach operating temp and heat cycle them a few times when you install them, if you feel the need.
New pushrods? Once again, you don't need them but a set of stock length (7.4") hardened ones will do you right. WIth a 1998 car, if you're on the stock timing chain look into replacing it, too. I got a beefy single roller replacement but there are a few other frequently used setups so ask around and choose one that fits you. I used the JWIS chain from Katech. With an A4 car, look into getting a cam with a 114 LSA or greater...unless you plan on doing tuning, too. Otherwise, the idle will be real tough to get right. Either cam is a proven winner. You'll love the change.
New springs, defintely. I went with the Comp 918's. Do you need Ti retainers? No. They will make the valvetrain lighter, which helps keep valve float away for a few hundred more RPM's up high. If you're not gonna see your limiter often, they are probably overkill but FWIW, I use them and I don't see high RPM's often at all. From what I hear, springs may need to be changed near 15-20K miles. Don't beat on them until they reach operating temp and heat cycle them a few times when you install them, if you feel the need.
New pushrods? Once again, you don't need them but a set of stock length (7.4") hardened ones will do you right. WIth a 1998 car, if you're on the stock timing chain look into replacing it, too. I got a beefy single roller replacement but there are a few other frequently used setups so ask around and choose one that fits you. I used the JWIS chain from Katech. With an A4 car, look into getting a cam with a 114 LSA or greater...unless you plan on doing tuning, too. Otherwise, the idle will be real tough to get right. Either cam is a proven winner. You'll love the change.
!LS1 11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 7,133
Likes: 2
From: Miami
Re: installing a b1 or c1 cam C1 here w/ Comp 918's. Got hardened pushrods, but not needed. Stock retainers. Great subtle lope. Getting it dyno tuned next week. Idles great, though stalls on occasion w/ AC on and full wheel turn. This should be corrected with the tune and by bumping up the idle a bit.
Loooove the cam!
Loooove the cam!
Re: installing a b1 or c1 cam Don't let people short change the B1....excellent driveability, emissions capability, good power and no tuning required. I made 391 RWHP with stock heads! The C1 will make a bit more power but at a price.
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