No clearance!!! Help!!!
A couple things first are you positively sure the valve lash is a 0. also things I have experienced
1. Futral uses cam motion for their grinds
- cam motions LS1 cams seem te have an excessive ramp rate, so at a given duration the valve is open taller ( lift wise ) at that degree compared to other cams.
2. I have had cams ground off by 3 degrees ( was verfied by a cam doctor)
I would put a degree wheel on and check ICL and see were it ends up
1. Futral uses cam motion for their grinds
- cam motions LS1 cams seem te have an excessive ramp rate, so at a given duration the valve is open taller ( lift wise ) at that degree compared to other cams.
2. I have had cams ground off by 3 degrees ( was verfied by a cam doctor)
I would put a degree wheel on and check ICL and see were it ends up
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Just talked with Allan Futral and to add to what you guys have already said. I need an adjustable pushrod. I'm not getting good readings by tightening down the rockers agains the solid pushrods which is pushing the valves down way too soon. Exactly what everyone keeps asking me about valve lash.
We'll make an adjustable pushrod this morning and go from there.
We'll make an adjustable pushrod this morning and go from there.
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and Mark (Predator Z) You bet I know you warned me. So did Allan. But, everyone also said it may or even should work so hey if we're not pushing the envelope than why not just drive Honda Accords
The only problem is I never really thought out a plan B.
What to do if the cam doesn't work.
Well, we're building the adjustables and I'll try and find a degree wheel.
The only problem is I never really thought out a plan B.
What to do if the cam doesn't work.Well, we're building the adjustables and I'll try and find a degree wheel.
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Using an adjustable pushrod and setting for zero lash, it looks like my 7.4" pushrods are about .075" too long, I need 7.325" pushrods. Haven't measured piston to valve yet, but it looks like about .125" We're going to dial indicate and and get an exact.
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Edit:!!!
How far does the lifter collapse during normal operating parameters?
Right now I'm showing my lifter/pushrod assembly as .075" too long, but do I get shorter pushrods or will the real valve springs collapse the lifter .075"???
The springs I have on the valves right now barely hold the locks in place.
How far does the lifter collapse during normal operating parameters?
Right now I'm showing my lifter/pushrod assembly as .075" too long, but do I get shorter pushrods or will the real valve springs collapse the lifter .075"???
The springs I have on the valves right now barely hold the locks in place.
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At zero lash yes but you have to add your preload in in real application (not the measurement) so the 7.40 look like perfect for ya.
they will colapse it .075 which would be lifter preload.
A quick check is use your pushrods and only tighten the rocker till you get no lash it will give you a quick idea of your valve clearence it just an estimate
A quick check is use your pushrods and only tighten the rocker till you get no lash it will give you a quick idea of your valve clearence it just an estimate
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I'm measuring actual P to V now.
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OK, I've got .100" inch valve travel at min P to V. What is the valve angle to figure the exact P to V with angular correction?
.180" on the exhaust valve.
.180" on the exhaust valve.
Last edited by ssheets; Dec 4, 2007 at 01:35 PM.
Okay, I think you guys may have found something. First the heads:
They are stock 5.3s that a friend worked. He's a good machinest and builds a ton of race motors, but that doesn't mean he's perfect, although I have a lot of faith in him. They are intnetionally worked very mildly, nothing drastic or radical done to any of the machine work.
He put in new valve seats and cut the intakes in deep. He then milled the heads to clean them up and I thought he said about .003", but it may have been as much as .005". I remember talking to him about the .035" valve drop on the 5.3s so we didn't mill much. The valves are Manley pro-flows.
Hydraulic lifters....I took them out a few days ago and laid them on the bench in the order they came out. The plungers are definetely against the retaining clip and the weak springs are not compressing them at all.
Should I clay with a set of the strong (PRC Gold) springs and see what I get?
I'll check on a degree wheel today.
Here's a picture of a chamber that shows the valve depth...I've got better ones, but I'll have to find them.
They are stock 5.3s that a friend worked. He's a good machinest and builds a ton of race motors, but that doesn't mean he's perfect, although I have a lot of faith in him. They are intnetionally worked very mildly, nothing drastic or radical done to any of the machine work.
He put in new valve seats and cut the intakes in deep. He then milled the heads to clean them up and I thought he said about .003", but it may have been as much as .005". I remember talking to him about the .035" valve drop on the 5.3s so we didn't mill much. The valves are Manley pro-flows.
Hydraulic lifters....I took them out a few days ago and laid them on the bench in the order they came out. The plungers are definetely against the retaining clip and the weak springs are not compressing them at all.
Should I clay with a set of the strong (PRC Gold) springs and see what I get?
I'll check on a degree wheel today.
Here's a picture of a chamber that shows the valve depth...I've got better ones, but I'll have to find them.
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