View Poll Results: New Engine VS. Dart 225's
Dart 225's
2
16.67%
New Engine
10
83.33%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll
What else?
#21
Staging Lane
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Sorry i didnt make myslef more clear, i dont want it to have 1000 hp right now. thats when i change it into a race car and i only use it at the track. None of this is stuff that im going to do in a year. i want to build it up little by little. I just dont want to rely on my motor now and end up blowing it up. I want opinions on which engine can with stand 1000 hp so i can get that now and build it up to 1000hp in a couple of years. My budget is basically unlimited because im not doing it all at once, little by little. Secondly, the car is automatic, so its not going to dyno at 500 and 750 but it has that stall on it. I am going strictly by what i was told. i was kind of skeptical myself, but he said that he as alot done to it and there is about 500 hp in the engine, like 380-390 hp to the wheels.
#22
11 Second Club
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Sorry i didnt make myslef more clear, i dont want it to have 1000 hp right now. thats when i change it into a race car and i only use it at the track. None of this is stuff that im going to do in a year. i want to build it up little by little. I just dont want to rely on my motor now and end up blowing it up. I want opinions on which engine can with stand 1000 hp so i can get that now and build it up to 1000hp in a couple of years. My budget is basically unlimited because im not doing it all at once, little by little. Secondly, the car is automatic, so its not going to dyno at 500 and 750 but it has that stall on it. I am going strictly by what i was told. i was kind of skeptical myself, but he said that he as alot done to it and there is about 500 hp in the engine, like 380-390 hp to the wheels.
Go with the LSX engine then, if you have unlimited amount of money. The Lsx can hold up tp 2500hp, so it has been stated.
#23
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500/750 is wrong so drop it from your vocabulary. You most likely are ~450/450 at the crank assuming a strong engine. Heads will not blow your motor... and 1000hp? You better get out your wallet because you arent going to do it very inexpensively with a 346.
With my cam i dynoed in at 380/375 at the wheels.
With my cam i dynoed in at 380/375 at the wheels.
#26
#27
oh this is bad!!! hahaha This thread needs to be locked and forgotten
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=708&catid=42
Originally Posted by 00transamnh
um... he has a ****** lsx engine
#30
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nothing wrong with building little by little.
but the problem is that alot of things you would do now...to get power. would end up getting discarded due to them being the wrong way to build a motor for 1000hp.
only way to make that power is basically forced induction.
that means any heads you buy now...that would help on the stock shortblock (or even a small stroker) are gonna boost compression. which is exactly the OPPOSITE of what you want to do for FI.
so you'll be buying new heads.
also any heads that will benefit a stock cube motor will not be able to keep up with a big cube motor. yet another reason you'll be buying new heads down the road.
even if you get a new block now...for a high hp application..with FI...you'd want dished pistons to keep the compression down. which would kill your n/a performance. so down the road you'd need to do a piston swap.
also you're kindda contradicting yourself. you want power, but you're worried about breaking the motor. well logic would say to rebuild the motor for your shorter term goals. or else put the heads on it now and wait till it blows...then do it.
you can either be pro-active or pro-prayer....build it before it blows or built it up and pray it doesn't blow for a while.
next problem is gonna be things like drivetrain, suspension, chassis.....all will need to be address. probably need to be addressed now since you're already making decent power.
the stock auto trans is not well known for holding 450rwhp
the stock 10bolt rear is WELL known for barely holding stock power levels.
under high power, the frame (uni-body) flexes enough to ripple the body, so SFC or a cage is needed.
i can go on...and on...
but the problem is that alot of things you would do now...to get power. would end up getting discarded due to them being the wrong way to build a motor for 1000hp.
only way to make that power is basically forced induction.
that means any heads you buy now...that would help on the stock shortblock (or even a small stroker) are gonna boost compression. which is exactly the OPPOSITE of what you want to do for FI.
so you'll be buying new heads.
also any heads that will benefit a stock cube motor will not be able to keep up with a big cube motor. yet another reason you'll be buying new heads down the road.
even if you get a new block now...for a high hp application..with FI...you'd want dished pistons to keep the compression down. which would kill your n/a performance. so down the road you'd need to do a piston swap.
also you're kindda contradicting yourself. you want power, but you're worried about breaking the motor. well logic would say to rebuild the motor for your shorter term goals. or else put the heads on it now and wait till it blows...then do it.
you can either be pro-active or pro-prayer....build it before it blows or built it up and pray it doesn't blow for a while.
next problem is gonna be things like drivetrain, suspension, chassis.....all will need to be address. probably need to be addressed now since you're already making decent power.
the stock auto trans is not well known for holding 450rwhp
the stock 10bolt rear is WELL known for barely holding stock power levels.
under high power, the frame (uni-body) flexes enough to ripple the body, so SFC or a cage is needed.
i can go on...and on...