Is this a pretty good cam Cam Guru's
12-13-2007, 04:05 PM
#22
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Check out our stealth II camshaft (224/220 116LSA), it has a stock idle/driveability and really doesnt have a large impact on fuel economy. We have built several 400+rwhp cars with unported factory casting LS6 heads, LS6 intake and all the bolt ons in A4 cars.
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
12-13-2007, 04:08 PM
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Hey i'll just say this...as far as highway mileage goes...i still get between 26-27 mpg with my F14. I don't get very good mileage in town really but as little as i drive my car...i don't really care. All i can say is that i really wouldn't waste the time, effort, money, etc. on a cam that small because though you will notice a difference in performance, it will be negligible. I would go with at least something with 220* but i have never heard anyone say anything negative about the TR224 as far as driveability ...it's been a staple for smaller cams on this board for years...i would definitely consider that one.
12-13-2007, 04:23 PM
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What he said I agree with Zach@MTI, perhaps all these guys know what they are talking about. But I have noticed in the car world, people are bias. They know a guy who knows a guy who swears by this. Or he might have even done the work on his own car, but seldom do they switch part vendors.
I suggest, calling people like Crain Cams, Comp Cams, Edelbrock, and even PM a few of the sponsors here, give them all the info on your car, and the goal, and make a list of all thier answers, then find someting in the middle, and go with that. Trust the guys who make it a living designing / testing / appying / and driving these products.
Its only my .02, perhaps I am way off, but I wouldnt buy an egagement ring just cause someone tells me that this place is better than that palce, and the price is cheaper here, go with what you want, and make sure you get what you want. Everyone always has a better idea than the one you have, perhaps youll be the guy that get the cam no one else ran and get great numbers out of it.....who knows
I suggest, calling people like Crain Cams, Comp Cams, Edelbrock, and even PM a few of the sponsors here, give them all the info on your car, and the goal, and make a list of all thier answers, then find someting in the middle, and go with that. Trust the guys who make it a living designing / testing / appying / and driving these products.
Its only my .02, perhaps I am way off, but I wouldnt buy an egagement ring just cause someone tells me that this place is better than that palce, and the price is cheaper here, go with what you want, and make sure you get what you want. Everyone always has a better idea than the one you have, perhaps youll be the guy that get the cam no one else ran and get great numbers out of it.....who knows
12-13-2007, 07:31 PM
#25
Man, lots of small cam haters here. Some people just aren't that crazy about 3500 stalls and 4.10 gears.
Does anyone really need to explain a scenario where you could use power below 3000rpm? Have you ever done a data log while doing any normal driving? Most of is really spend 90% or more of the time at less than 3000rpm and less than 25% throttle. Why not choose performance parts that actually work when you are driving regularly?
Does anyone really need to explain a scenario where you could use power below 3000rpm? Have you ever done a data log while doing any normal driving? Most of is really spend 90% or more of the time at less than 3000rpm and less than 25% throttle. Why not choose performance parts that actually work when you are driving regularly?
12-13-2007, 11:04 PM
#26
Check out our stealth II camshaft (224/220 116LSA), it has a stock idle/driveability and really doesnt have a large impact on fuel economy. We have built several 400+rwhp cars with unported factory casting LS6 heads, LS6 intake and all the bolt ons in A4 cars.
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
Not that I'm a cam guru but I think that was uncalled for. Why don't you let him listen to who he wants to listen to? No need to take shots at people like that.
Man, lots of small cam haters here. Some people just aren't that crazy about 3500 stalls and 4.10 gears.
Does anyone really need to explain a scenario where you could use power below 3000rpm? Have you ever done a data log while doing any normal driving? Most of is really spend 90% or more of the time at less than 3000rpm and less than 25% throttle. Why not choose performance parts that actually work when you are driving regularly?
Does anyone really need to explain a scenario where you could use power below 3000rpm? Have you ever done a data log while doing any normal driving? Most of is really spend 90% or more of the time at less than 3000rpm and less than 25% throttle. Why not choose performance parts that actually work when you are driving regularly?
12-13-2007, 11:36 PM
#27
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i had that cam years ago, it was my 1st cam in a ls1 car. it was a 02 6spd camaro hrdtp w/crankdown windows, it went mid 11s @ 121 regularly and rwhp was 385 with shitty unported mac mid lngths. it was a lite car from the factory. my next cam was in a 98 auto that had all the bolt ons(back then the best intake was LS6), ported stock 98 heads, 220/220 TR cam, it went 10.88 @ 124.89 w 3250 RW. it was gutted. my biggest cam is the one ive got now the TS 224/224 581-581. its in a hrdtp vette it has been mid 11s @ 127 (severe spinning) and runs right with my best friends new 06 Z06 and idles stock. but i looked at your sig and it says you have 273s and i didnt see where you were going to change gears. with that in mind i wouldnt even change cam. not being a smartass but you would be working backwards if you are keeping it NA. i got a couple cars that still have 323s now but they are making 600 and 650 hp and need the extra gear to get thru the 1/4 w/16in 26" tall tires. both trap in the mid 130s. anyway, my old 02 6 spd hauled mucho *** with that cam and stock heads. but that car went 12.3s @ 115 before the cam and skinnies. i also have alot of seat time.
Last edited by 99reddevilFRC; 12-14-2007 at 06:01 AM.
12-13-2007, 11:44 PM
#28
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Check out our stealth II camshaft (224/220 116LSA), it has a stock idle/driveability and really doesnt have a large impact on fuel economy. We have built several 400+rwhp cars with unported factory casting LS6 heads, LS6 intake and all the bolt ons in A4 cars.
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
12-13-2007, 11:47 PM
#29
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Have to disagree here. Part of making power is making efficient power. Any dumb *** could build a 500hp engine that gets a sweet 5mpg and takes a gallon to start it. I think I would rather make 300hp+ and stay around the 31mpg I'm getting. I know I will loose some but as a stated the car is D/D in the summer and when I parked it gas was $3.40 plus.
12-13-2007, 11:51 PM
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Or you could go with the guys trying to get in your wallet.
Not that I'm a cam guru but I think that was uncalled for. Why don't you let him listen to who he wants to listen to? No need to take shots at people like that.
I agree that most of street driving is done under 3000 rpm. But what's the first thing you do when you want to kick it? You drop a gear and get those rpm's up right? Bye bye 3000, I mean seriously when are you ever WOT below 3000 rpm? It doesn't make sense to want your power there unless your planning on towing a trailer or something. And less than 25% throttle are you serious? You don't need a camshaft for under 25% throttle it not going to make a difference. " Hey man I just bought this new camshaft and it feels great around 1/4 throttle."
Not that I'm a cam guru but I think that was uncalled for. Why don't you let him listen to who he wants to listen to? No need to take shots at people like that.
I agree that most of street driving is done under 3000 rpm. But what's the first thing you do when you want to kick it? You drop a gear and get those rpm's up right? Bye bye 3000, I mean seriously when are you ever WOT below 3000 rpm? It doesn't make sense to want your power there unless your planning on towing a trailer or something. And less than 25% throttle are you serious? You don't need a camshaft for under 25% throttle it not going to make a difference. " Hey man I just bought this new camshaft and it feels great around 1/4 throttle."
I hate big cams
12-14-2007, 01:13 AM
#31
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Check out our stealth II camshaft (224/220 116LSA), it has a stock idle/driveability and really doesnt have a large impact on fuel economy. We have built several 400+rwhp cars with unported factory casting LS6 heads, LS6 intake and all the bolt ons in A4 cars.
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
You don't need any of the internet self proclaimed "cam guru's" to tell you what cam will work, the REAL cam guru's are the shops who have spent countless hours on R&D and back to back dyno tests. Go with the people who do this for a living and not the ones who punch in numbers on a DCR calculator and call themselves "cam guru's"
But we all don't have to have the name like "Micheal Jordon", in order to try to help others out at the same time. 
12-14-2007, 06:36 PM
#34
I agree that most of street driving is done under 3000 rpm. But what's the first thing you do when you want to kick it? You drop a gear and get those rpm's up right? Bye bye 3000, I mean seriously when are you ever WOT below 3000 rpm? It doesn't make sense to want your power there unless your planning on towing a trailer or something. And less than 25% throttle are you serious? You don't need a camshaft for under 25% throttle it not going to make a difference. " Hey man I just bought this new camshaft and it feels great around 1/4 throttle."
This board is full of people who say "too small" without even taking the application in mind. Since his application is a daily driver, with no gears or stall, real street and little or no track use mentioned, the cam he proposed is a great starting point. He might decide that bigger is better someday, but for what the intended use will be, he's done a much better job hitting the mark than 90% of the people who start a cam thread.
As for 25% throttle - try tiptoeing into the gas sometime in an auto and see how far you can go with it. The same amount of throttle that holds a steady 65mph can also accelerate the car at a reasonable speed and add many miles before the next refueling.
You may not care, but the person starting the thread did.
12-15-2007, 12:24 AM
#35
That was exactly the response I expected. If you are ok with going WOT everytime you want to accelerate, dropping down a couple gears and sucking a bunch of gas, so be it. Since the OP is getting 30+ mpg now, I'm almost certain that is not the way he's using it.
This board is full of people who say "too small" without even taking the application in mind. Since his application is a daily driver, with no gears or stall, real street and little or no track use mentioned, the cam he proposed is a great starting point. He might decide that bigger is better someday, but for what the intended use will be, he's done a much better job hitting the mark than 90% of the people who start a cam thread.
As for 25% throttle - try tiptoeing into the gas sometime in an auto and see how far you can go with it. The same amount of throttle that holds a steady 65mph can also accelerate the car at a reasonable speed and add many miles before the next refueling.
You may not care, but the person starting the thread did.
This board is full of people who say "too small" without even taking the application in mind. Since his application is a daily driver, with no gears or stall, real street and little or no track use mentioned, the cam he proposed is a great starting point. He might decide that bigger is better someday, but for what the intended use will be, he's done a much better job hitting the mark than 90% of the people who start a cam thread.
As for 25% throttle - try tiptoeing into the gas sometime in an auto and see how far you can go with it. The same amount of throttle that holds a steady 65mph can also accelerate the car at a reasonable speed and add many miles before the next refueling.
You may not care, but the person starting the thread did.
I can tell you have never had a car with a larger type cam in it, either that or your trying to defend your decision to run a small cam. And I've driven auto's before I believe everybody has so I know what they are like and how they work.
And it seems to me the OP had already decided what he was going to run before he even started this thread.
12-15-2007, 01:12 AM
#36
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hooraahh Have to disagree here. Part of making power is making efficient power. Any dumb *** could build a 500hp engine that gets a sweet 5mpg and takes a gallon to start it. I think I would rather make 300hp+ and stay around the 31mpg I'm getting. I know I will loose some but as a stated the car is D/D in the summer and when I parked it gas was $3.40 plus.
my car stock was 21.5 mpg and i think the sticks got like 26 something but the gto is a pig at 4000 lbs
12-15-2007, 01:38 AM
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And yea LS1 fbods (espec the M6's) get pretty damn good gas mileage. I get like 18-22 city and about 30-33 highway. Well if I keep my foot out of it....
12-15-2007, 06:40 PM
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If you want a small cam why dont you just keep the stock cam in. Its pretty small. I dont see why you want to go with a cam thats not much bigger than the stock cam. This reminds me of the time I called the Compcams tech line. They recommended something like a 532/525lift 216/218dur. I told the guy "do you know what you are doing?" The stock cam in my GTO was 525/525lift 2xx/2xx dur. If I'm going to do 10 hours worth of work to put a cam in my car I want it to sound bad a$$ and perform! You get this sound and performance from bigger cams period. If you want less power and a stock sounding cam put a small cam in there. I guess its what makes you happy. I like having a choppy idle and lots of power!
12-15-2007, 07:50 PM
#39
If you want a small cam why dont you just keep the stock cam in. Its pretty small. I dont see why you want to go with a cam thats not much bigger than the stock cam. This reminds me of the time I called the Compcams tech line. They recommended something like a 532/525lift 216/218dur. I told the guy "do you know what you are doing?" The stock cam in my GTO was 525/525lift 2xx/2xx dur. If I'm going to do 10 hours worth of work to put a cam in my car I want it to sound bad a$$ and perform! You get this sound and performance from bigger cams period. If you want less power and a stock sounding cam put a small cam in there. I guess its what makes you happy. I like having a choppy idle and lots of power!
I completely agree. This guy is all about his gas mileage. Stay with the stocker then. Why waste your time and money? Here's a dyno graph from a guy with a baby cam just posted the other day. https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/829650-99-cam-only-z28-baby-cam.htmlNo offense to bird man but that thing is done by 5300 rpm that would be great for your pickup. Not for a sports car. That's a really narrow powerband that's probably not that fast and sounds like stock. No thanks.
