LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I have a longer crank bolt, but its older.

the lifter trays, yes, I may have damaged the threads in the trays, nothing in the block. the plastic is damaged if anything..

I dont have that tool. The ulley isnt even damaged, its not a big deal.

I believe the oil pump spacers/shims is on correctly.

I wasnt usinga 1/2" breaker bar it was doen with a small wrench. I used a torque wrench to tighten it, it isnt my fault I did the correct torque spec.


an impact just isnt good enough to put the pulley bolt on, would you agree?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Now does anyone know what they are running their sparkplug gaps on Tr-55s on a 10.75 cr engine?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Dude, also if the oil pump is on wrong, wont I know when I first turn on the car and check where my oil pressure is? if it seems too low. Ill know and I can just get to it from the oil pan... I think.. cuz its already in the car.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

It is possible to not have the shims on correct on the right side of the oil pump. You could have it flipped over and it would block the one hole.

I WOULD NOT USE A LONGER BOLT TO PUT ON THE PULLEY!! I stripped my crank threads out, but if you want to go ahead and do it. You can buy some threaded rod 16mm 2.0 pitch for 15 bucks and a few nuts and you can push the pulley on.

Good luck!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Okay.. But I can tell as soon as I start the car right? oil pressure should differ, since bearing clearance is untoched, viscosity of oil and quantity of oil remanins the same. so if it reads different. Id know.right?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The lifter trays don't have threads. Maybe you got lucky on that one and only thought you stripped the threads. You can use a longer bolt(120mm) to get the pulley started. I did it many times until I finally spent the money for the nice pusher tool. A 16mmX2mm threaded rod will also work. The longer bolt is like anything else. If you use it properly it will get the job done and if you don't it could bite you. I have an impact that's rated at 250ft/lb., but have never had the nerve to use it to either remove or install the crank bolt. It might work and some people have had success with an impact. You're on your own with that one.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

it just kept freewheeling, so maybe I just thought they were stripped.

I was told by many people that an impact is ok. But Im still worried.

Okay. I understand your pusher/puller tool and the longer bolt.

Now, can you please tell me this. how on earth are we gonna troque it to 250ft lbs?

no one is answering this part. what can I use to hold the dan thing if I dont have the pusher tool.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I use a 1/2" breaker bar with a section of pipe slid over the end of it. It makes the breaker bar about 4' long allowing you to get the leverage you need to reach 250ft/lb. To hold the pulley I use a chain wrench. It's sold at plumbing supply stores and Sears(not expensive). It looks like a breaker bar with a section of chain on the end of it. You wrap the chain around the pulley and lock the end of the chain to a jaw on the end of the tool. You turn the breaker bar CW while the chain wrench bucks up against the chassis or your concrete driveway. You'll easily reach 250 that way.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Okay... Now, for the 4th time, if you are sure of it only..

will I see a drop or increase in oil pressure if the shims for the oil pump are not on right?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

If the shims are not on right or the oil pump o ring is pinched the oil pressure will be low. Also, the front seal can cause a drop in oil pressure. At the startup, it will not have oil pressure the first FEW seconds, then it will shoot up. Also remember to crank it with the coil packs unplugged for about 5 seconds.

For your double roller, I know that mine contacted my water pump even after i grinded on it and it caused metal shavings to drop into the pan which I had to clean. I'm hoping that didn't happen to you and you didn't catch it.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

TSP told me that due to castings some may contact, some may not.

I dont think mine is touching..

Okay, I am curious as to why to crank it with the coil packs unplugged for the first 5 sec

and yes I know I wont get oil pressure the first couple of seconds because it hasnt gone through all the way..

Okay, so If I sense my pressure is low, Im gonna have to take off the oil pan and check I guess. with the motor in the car.

so just in case , tell me again how the shims should look, specifically.. to be installed correctly.

unless it was already mentioned here, then Ill just find it in the thread.



.....

and next my rocker arms are gooing on, anything special I should know?

they are the YT rockers for LS1. and TSP hardened pushrods.. does it matter how they go in? I dont think there is a specific way they should..

Ohhh and lastly the caddy lifters(hydraulic roller) I placed them with the roller facing the camse direction as the cam lobe will spin, but some seem to be sitting 45 degrees or 90 degrees off.. will it correct itself when the engine is cranked? if not, how can I get em to seat properly..

thanks.

kistlerjm9

iTrader: (24)

no offense but you really need to slow down. read the ls1howtos and make posts more understandable. we are all here to help but if you have pics of the problems u are running into u would have a million answers. and the lifter tray bolt will need to be helicoiled if they are stripped remember this is aluminum not cast start all bolts with yours fingers to ensure you dont crossthread anything. very easy to do when putting on headers also.

LivingCanvas

iTrader: (4)

Dude I dont like the idea of you hammering your crank pulley on. You can damage the thrust bearings in your engine that way.

Also, I agree with the above poster, you need to slow down a little and read the ls1howto article and really try to picture and understand whats going on in your engine. You sound like your in over your head here.

That said, I really do wish you the best of luck, and would like you to keep us updated on your progress.

I would offer some help, but all your answers have been answered by previous posters. I will help where I can

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Ok I added attatchemnts to the keyway and the damage on #6 piston..

also Ill check with the lifter trays. how could I have stripped them if I never exceeded 8.8 f lbs, I went slowly. Its not like I just started ratcheting away..

Also sorry if I am getting excited and writing too many things or not making sense with all of my posts. Im just trying to figure out so many potential issues. and am overlooking things. I am also in finals at my school , which is also automotive and I just finished building a TH 400 and a toyota 4cyl 1.6 liter.. as well as helped put together a VW bug engine. so I have a lot going on

thanks for all the help..

oh and the LS1 how to doesnt explain everything or isnt very clear on everything, which is why Im asking here. But it is an excellent writeup, I agree.

edit:

also the part I broke, the solenoid looking thing/ the platic part that broke.... It is in the post below me, or in this post as well. I will circle it in red.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

We hammered it on slowly, we didnt beat it with a dead blow. but yes. this isnt being done the most professional way. I have a mechanic helping me with almost everything, and he isnt exactly new school..

kistlerjm9

iTrader: (24)

that does look like u grazed a valve on number six just make sure its flat and clean those pistons off. i use a 3m buffing pad on a 3in angle buffer does a nice job. just dont use the sanding discs lol. the knock sensor retainer seals have to be purchased and special ordered at a dealership. they will not have them in stock.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

would a fine grain sandpaper be a bad idea? and would a 3m scotchbrite pad be okay for the block? Im trying to use a razorblade, but am afraid of damaging the block,to clean it.

Yeah I think that happened a while back when I was @ 6000rpm in 3rd gear and I was going to shift to 4th, but it went back into 2nd ... and I probably floated a valve or something.

what are disadvantages, if I decide to not clean off the pistons?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Your expected to be at a certain level of expertise when you read a tutorial. You can't be carried from basic mechanics to engine building in one article. Use your vacuum wand while scraping trash from your piston crowns with a single edge razor blade or scotch brite pad. If the shim is oriented wrong the holes in the pump port, shim and block won't be concentric as they need to be. The shim hole will be offset partially. This will restrict oil flow. The pressure will go up right there because of the restriction, but the flow will be reduced. The oil sender isn't located right there so I'm not sure what reading you will see on your gauge. There is currently an ongoing argument about this pressure/volume thing on another forum. Are pressure and volume indirectly proportional and such? I just know you need to be cognizant of the hole in the shim when you install it. You're also supposed to put a little RTV on both side of the shim. You probably missed that part. When you crank the engine with the coil packs disconnected what are you doing? If you're in auto mechanics school you should be able to answer this one. This is the GenIII method of priming the oil pump. With GenI you used an electric drill motor to simulate the running engine. You shouldn't have stripped any threads with only 8ft/lb. Are you sure the threads in the block for the lifter trays are stripped? Have you checked them with a known good fastener. There we go again adding more terminalogy to the mix. You do "know" a good fastener when you see one as opposed to one that has damaged threads, right? Maybe you only think it is stripped since you say you only used 8ft/lb.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I'd say the damage to six is from a mechanical over rev.

The shim on the passenger side cannot be put on wrong. The shim on the driver side can. Hold it up to the block and you can see that one way covers most of the hole. If you have it the wrong way, the pressure should be good when its cold but falls way low when its warm. There was a person a while back that had the shim the wrong way and thats what he described.

If you use the scotchbite, you are just looking for a leak to happen. The aluminum surface will be uneven. Just use a razor blade and take your time. Make sure you always have a sharp one.

On another note, thats a pretty dirty engine you have there.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I used a scotch brite pad and cleaned as much as I can, not all of it, but most of it and itfeels very flat..

anyways we put the head gaskets on..

the oil pump is on correctly, my mechanic assured me.

and we torques the head bolts, in correct sequence. everything looks great.

now Im only haveing a bit of confusion with my new rockers...

in this thread, the bottom post(for now) explains the question I have..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/799312-my-head-cam-swap-got-pushed-back-few-weeks.html