LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Yes I know its from mechanic over rev.. thanks you..

Ill let you knwo if the pressure falls. im sure its on right.

I did use scotchbrite. a razor blade wasnt getting the job done and was scratching the block, so I didnt wanna risk it.

yes the engine is dirty it has 90,000 on it.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I had the YT non adjustables, so I just checked on piston #1 that they didnt need washers and the guy (who is the Yella Terra phone operator/tech for USA) said if it doesnt need washers then non of them do, so I just torqued all of them to 25 ft lb.

also the shafts that the rocker sit on have 2 small holes in between the 2 rockers, I dunno if they should face up or down. the guy told me it didnt matter. so theyre just in, some up, some down.



The valve covers went back on

the inake manifold is back on, I didnt use a new gasket(if anyone even does)

headers are on... torqued at 18ft lb, I think..

NGK TR55 plus. I gapped @ .50 for a 10.75 cr engine and since no one told me what they gap em at, I assumed thats Okay, since TSP told me they gap em at .45


Now the engine is going back in the car.

hope all runs fine..

do I have to disconnect all the spark plug wires to prime the oil pump?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Why stop at just disconnecting the spark plug wire. Why not just remove them and the spark plugs too in order to prime the oil pump. No, you don't have to disconnect the spark plug wires to prime the oil pump if you've already unplugged the coil packs. That's redundant. For your sake I hope this engine runs and holds together, but I have my doubts at this point. You ask an intelligent question and then in the very next sentence you ask something that makes one believe you don't have a clue. Good luck when you turn the key.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Officer *** is on duty

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Don't be so thin skinned. I wasn't as hard on you as someone who breaks off a rocker bolt and then tries to blame it on his torque wrench. That deserves a real tongue lashing. At least you asked question ahead of time. You're taking advantage of this forum as well you should. Others wait until the mistake is made and then ask "What do I do now?". I hope you've learned from all the questions you asked and I hope your engine runs strong for a very long time. That's no foolin around. Your next LS engine build is going to be a breeze compared to this one.

Dokken

Couldn't SeaFoam be applied to the piston head? Wouldn't that loosen up the carbon build up making it easier to remove?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I know I didnt think of that. but I did seafoam my car about 8 ,000 miles before I tore the engine apart

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I asked that because I wasnt sure whether to disconnect like 4 plugs, because maaybe the car wont run on 4 cyl. I wasnt really thinking of everything, I wasnt at that point yet/ I have a million other things on my mind.

k thanks. Ill let you know tomorrow how it goes and if the engine runs.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

man i wish you luck.. i dont think its that hard especially if you follow the ls1howto instructions.. i wish when i did my heads/cam i had my motor out the car. woulda made it 100x easier.. good luck tommorow!!

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I was talking about on the head surface and waterpump area. The carbon comes off real easy with a razor blade. Just be sure you have a shop vac there to pick up the trash when you are cleaning off the surfaces.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Okay here is the deal:

The motor went back in the car.

on the new K member and new A arms and poly engine mounts

I put in 5 qts of mobil 1 5w30 and primed the oil pump for a good 3 sec. then again for a good 5 sec..

we started her up.. she fired right up idling at 1100 rpm or so(cold start)

she didnt struggle @ all. the oil pressure seemed high. like @ 60psi or so

now when she reached the 150 degree mark, I turned the engine off as we were adding coolant.. I let it cool off for a while and added 1 more qt of oil... I waited a bit, so the valve springs would cool off and I wouldnt shock them with the colder oil...

we fired her up again, this time it idles @ 500 rpm, til it took a few seconds to learn and idle at about 800-850 rpms. the oil pressure at this point was exactly how it used to be. at about 40psi....

now she reached full operating temps, and everything seemed alright...

when I turned it off and fired her up again to drive it around we encountered 2 problems..

at first I drove it around and it wasnt idling at 800 anymore, it kept trying to shut off... so i had to tap the throttle to raise rpms and I drove it... the car seemed okay... problem is when I kept coming to a stop the engine was shutting off, so it made it diffcult to drive around town from stoplight, to stoplight...

now after 5 min of driving tI noticed the car started overheating, so I had to pull over and let her cool off..

I am seeing smoke come from the rear of the engine(rear passenger side by piston #8 I guess) I cant really tell...

My guess is im leaking coolant somewhere.. I verified this by checking under the car and seeing a small puddle of dexcool on the floor after a couple min of the engine being off.

It took me 40 min of driving to get back to the shop, because she keeps overheating.

I wonder what the problem is..

Also I noticed the oil pressure is lower now at about 30 psi or so. which is too low IMO from how its always been..

so basically I have 3 problems:

coolant leak/overheating

oil pressure now lower than it was before...

idling issues to begin with(need a tuner)

based on the information given, can any of ya'll help?

so is the oil pump issue actually true now?(is one of the shims on wrong?)

even if so... why was the oil pressure normal before? for a while, even during all the driving?

and where can it be that coolant is leaking from the rear?

thanks a lot for all your input.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Also I a traveling tomorrow to new Jersey. Ill try and check this thread tomorrow or in a couple of days, when Im at my cousins house.

Thanks.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

you might have to "burp" your car. there might be an air bubble somewhere. when i did my cam the same thing happend to us and the car kept over heating as well.. u can get the water moving around by squeezing on the upper radiator hose. check your valve covers for the leak.. make sure that gasket is completely flush, if not youll most likely have a leak from around there. also if your leaking COOLANT i would guess a head isnt on right? when u get back take a good look, use a flash light and find exactly where its coming from. dont rule anything out, double check everything

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

The coolant plug is on that side. Hopefully it just needs to be tightened a bit to fix the leak. The overheating could be an air bubble, they can get to upwards of 1200 degrees.

The oil pressure is not an issue right now. Mine did the same thing, before the swap it was 40 at op temp at idle, and now its 30. I replaced my pump and o ring and it's still the same. I think it is the cam retainer plate. We both have close to the same mileage so that's probably it in both of our cases.

A tune will take care of the idle issues. You should also gain power all through the power band. My car wouldn't even stay running when I did my swap. I had to load someones tune just to make it 2 miles down the road to put my converter in. I then had to tow it get it tuned.

LivingCanvas

iTrader: (4)

-Idling problem is normal and the car should learn how to keep itself running after a few hundred miles.

-When I swapped cams and had to fill the rad fluid up again, I just let the car run without the cap on and kept filling it until it was at operating temp. Put the cap on, topped off overflow bottle and never had a problem.

-For the oil leak you'll have to check around where you think its coming from. Check the easy stuff like valve covers first.

-Hopefully you dont have a leaky head gasket, but dont assume that till you go through the easy stuff first.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Your oil pressure should NOT drop after a heads/cam swap. Here's an ancient tip on how to find a hard to locate leak. Clean the suspect area with solvent to remove all crud and residue from the leak. Area must be clean and dry. Spay on aerosol foot powder(white spray on powder type). Cover the entire suspected area with the white powder. Let spray powder dry. Start engine and watch for the leak. The source of the leak will be much easier to spot as it runs down the white powder background. This method has been used for years to find oil leaks.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

sorry if some of you understood oil leak...

I have a COOLANT leak and overheating problem.

and oil pressure lower than normal, the last time it was overheating. but was normal before that.

and thanks for all the help.

when I get back on the 29th/30th of Dec, Ill look into dealing with these issues.

Merry Christmas.

mad618

the oil pressure dropped because the engine was so hot.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

well thank God for that! but I have to be 100% sure why its leaking from the rear of the engine... I heard a lot of things, when I return Ill check all of it and try and diagnose it from there on.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Bump for the future