can some one tell me why this firebird wont start**vid inside**
12-16-2007, 08:11 PM
#41
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have a scanner or some way to read the rpm output from the computer? If you do then I'd check and make sure you're getting a readout while cranking, if not, see the previous several posts and get a crank sensor.
You did check all the fuses right?
You did check all the fuses right?
12-17-2007, 02:42 AM
#43
On The Tree
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: bay area
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well this is my car and i just went down to autozone and rented the obdII scanner. it said that my crank sensor is not working thats the only code it threw. im gonna try changing that and see what happens. not getting my hopes up but hopefully that works. if that works i will let u guys no.
thanks for all the help because i ws ready to push the car off a cliff lol
thanks for all the help because i ws ready to push the car off a cliff lol
12-17-2007, 08:58 AM
#44
I hope a new sensor fixes this, but as previously stated, if you have the wrong reluctor wheel, you are in deeper trouble. Also inspect the wiring very closely. Make sure that the wires are connected to the sensor. They are pretty easy to rip out. Ask me how I know 
12-17-2007, 09:42 AM
#47
12-17-2007, 09:55 AM
#48
I truly hope you both have the same reluctor wheel! If yall do, then that is great news because that means its just a sensor issue. No telling why his doesn't work and yours did. There could be a million reasons! It is very possible one of the wires got yanked out of the sensor when the engine was being pulled. Thats what happened to me. Yes, my sensor was plugged in also, but mine didn't start. However, I didn't undermind the people who were giving me advise when I asked what could be wrong with mine. I actually took the advise that was given to me and went and checked it out instead of trying to argue with them. I think you all would be way better off doing the same. You are coming across as very arrogant and honestly man, its getting kind of annoying to explain this stuff to you a million times. I recommended the crank position sensor in post#18 four days ago. I've had to explain it several times since. And now that you all FINALLY made it around to checking it out and saw there really was an error there with a scanner you are still trying to argue. I simply don't get it man. 
12-17-2007, 04:34 PM
#49
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: norcal
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I truly hope you both have the same reluctor wheel! If yall do, then that is great news because that means its just a sensor issue. No telling why his doesn't work and yours did. There could be a million reasons! It is very possible one of the wires got yanked out of the sensor when the engine was being pulled. Thats what happened to me. Yes, my sensor was plugged in also, but mine didn't start. However, I didn't undermind the people who were giving me advise when I asked what could be wrong with mine. I actually took the advise that was given to me and went and checked it out instead of trying to argue with them. I think you all would be way better off doing the same. You are coming across as very arrogant and honestly man, its getting kind of annoying to explain this stuff to you a million times. I recommended the crank position sensor in post#18 four days ago. I've had to explain it several times since. And now that you all FINALLY made it around to checking it out and saw there really was an error there with a scanner you are still trying to argue. I simply don't get it man.
all im saying is that they should work the same in terms of craftmanship. i know our sensors are different and all. the funny thing is i bought my crank sensor used cuz i left the old one on my old motor when i sold it...and it works.
12-17-2007, 05:04 PM
#50
No, you are not being arrogant by trying to help a friend out, you are being arrogant in that you refuse to take any advise that is given. you keep coming up with excuses not to check what people have said rather than checking them. Have you guys pulled the timing cover and checked the gears dot to dot? Have you actually inspected the wires going to the crank position sensor? You keep saying everything is the same as your engine- it should have fired right up. Well, obviously- it didn't and you have a problem. We are trying to help you all out. You asked for advise and we are giving it to you, but its kind of annoying when we are ignored when giving advise when it could be beneficial and helpful to you. Thats all I'm saying.
12-17-2007, 05:31 PM
#51
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: norcal
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, you are not being arrogant by trying to help a friend out, you are being arrogant in that you refuse to take any advise that is given. you keep coming up with excuses not to check what people have said rather than checking them. Have you guys pulled the timing cover and checked the gears dot to dot? Have you actually inspected the wires going to the crank position sensor? You keep saying everything is the same as your engine- it should have fired right up. Well, obviously- it didn't and you have a problem. We are trying to help you all out. You asked for advise and we are giving it to you, but its kind of annoying when we are ignored when giving advise when it could be beneficial and helpful to you. Thats all I'm saying.
we couldnt check it earlier because we cant work on the cars everyday of the week. we have one maybe 2 days to do anything yesterday we actually got to test the crank sensor.
we checked dot to dot back in may wen we got the motors and they were good. i know for sure we didnt damage the wires to the crank sensor because they are all in tact.
anyway wen my friend does get the sensor ill post a vid....if it works lol
thanks
Adam
12-23-2007, 08:24 AM
#56
12-23-2007, 09:23 AM
#57
Bad cam sensor, or unplugged cam sensor wont cause a no start. It'll be hard to start, but it'll revert to batch fire (cam sensor synchs the sequential injection) and start.
Unless you've scoped the signal from the crank sensor, there's no real way to know if the wiring is "intact".
1st: Find someone with an oscilloscope, and the ability to use it. Scope the crank sensor signal to the PCM. If you have a waveform, go to step 2. If not, is it flat lined? If so, you probably dont have a connection. Pushed out pin, opened up female pin, broken wire inside the insulation, pinched wire grounding the signal, etc.
If you dont have a waveform, and there's voltage, aprox 10 volts, then the most likely cause is the sensor is too far away, and not being triggered.
2nd: If you have a waveform, hook up a scanner, and see if you have an injector pulse. Also look for timing advance, that will let you know if the computer is attempting to fire the coils.
If it turns out you have a good waveform, but the other stuff isnt present, you may have a 58 tooth reluctor. Although even with that, it should try to fire.
If you find someone to scope it for you, and you need example waveforms, I think I have both 24X and 58X patterns at my shop. If you need em for comparison, and havent figured it out by the 26th, send me a PM, and I'll email them to you.
Stop swapping stuff and diagnose.
Good luck.
12-23-2007, 02:56 PM
#59
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: norcal
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This will never cause a no start. Matter of fact it has to be running to run the test/procedure.
Bad cam sensor, or unplugged cam sensor wont cause a no start. It'll be hard to start, but it'll revert to batch fire (cam sensor synchs the sequential injection) and start.
How can you be sure the wires are intact? Wires break inside insulation (you'll never know in less you give em the "stretch test") connector pins back out of connectors, female connector pins open up.
Unless you've scoped the signal from the crank sensor, there's no real way to know if the wiring is "intact".
1st: Find someone with an oscilloscope, and the ability to use it. Scope the crank sensor signal to the PCM. If you have a waveform, go to step 2. If not, is it flat lined? If so, you probably dont have a connection. Pushed out pin, opened up female pin, broken wire inside the insulation, pinched wire grounding the signal, etc.
If you dont have a waveform, and there's voltage, aprox 10 volts, then the most likely cause is the sensor is too far away, and not being triggered.
2nd: If you have a waveform, hook up a scanner, and see if you have an injector pulse. Also look for timing advance, that will let you know if the computer is attempting to fire the coils.
If it turns out you have a good waveform, but the other stuff isnt present, you may have a 58 tooth reluctor. Although even with that, it should try to fire.
If you find someone to scope it for you, and you need example waveforms, I think I have both 24X and 58X patterns at my shop. If you need em for comparison, and havent figured it out by the 26th, send me a PM, and I'll email them to you.
Stop swapping stuff and diagnose.
Good luck.
Bad cam sensor, or unplugged cam sensor wont cause a no start. It'll be hard to start, but it'll revert to batch fire (cam sensor synchs the sequential injection) and start.
How can you be sure the wires are intact? Wires break inside insulation (you'll never know in less you give em the "stretch test") connector pins back out of connectors, female connector pins open up.
Unless you've scoped the signal from the crank sensor, there's no real way to know if the wiring is "intact".
1st: Find someone with an oscilloscope, and the ability to use it. Scope the crank sensor signal to the PCM. If you have a waveform, go to step 2. If not, is it flat lined? If so, you probably dont have a connection. Pushed out pin, opened up female pin, broken wire inside the insulation, pinched wire grounding the signal, etc.
If you dont have a waveform, and there's voltage, aprox 10 volts, then the most likely cause is the sensor is too far away, and not being triggered.
2nd: If you have a waveform, hook up a scanner, and see if you have an injector pulse. Also look for timing advance, that will let you know if the computer is attempting to fire the coils.
If it turns out you have a good waveform, but the other stuff isnt present, you may have a 58 tooth reluctor. Although even with that, it should try to fire.
If you find someone to scope it for you, and you need example waveforms, I think I have both 24X and 58X patterns at my shop. If you need em for comparison, and havent figured it out by the 26th, send me a PM, and I'll email them to you.
Stop swapping stuff and diagnose.
Good luck.
it threw the crank sesnor failure code.
its goin to the shop.
12-23-2007, 03:01 PM
#60
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: norcal
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maybe the problem.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...ferrerid=13414
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...ferrerid=13414
