Help remove a bad lifter
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I was just reading about this in my Hayes Manual and it was talking about a tool with a hook that you could use or as someone has already posted, a powerful magnet. It says that it should come out with the tray, but sometimes with more miles on the motor it gets stuck due to dirt and grime that gets in the lifter bore holding it in there. Sorry, if that is redundant information, but you could always try what another poster said and that is remove the cam and try to remove it from the bottom.
My only fear would be if there is damage and you pull it out you may do irreversible damage to the lifter bore. They should slide right out. If not, you may have a damaged wheel or something else wrong. Pull the cam, look in since its right in the front and then you can see what you are dealing with. If it doesn't easily come out from the top. Stop and find the issue.
I had lifters turn on me before. The damage from the cam caused the bottom of the lifter to flare out so the lifter was larger than the lifter bore. It would not come out the top due to the damage so I dropped it out the bottom. As others have said if you force it out the top you may damage the lifter bore.
I got the lifter out today. The lifter turned on me ,and there was flat spot on the roller. The tray is cracked so before I but everything back together I need to get a new tray. Any of you guys have any extra trays laying around or know where I can get a new one?
http://www.sdparts.com/product/12551...ideLS1LS6.aspx
What is the number on the bottom of the tray? There were some issues with those marked "10". Also, I would replace all trays if its apart. They play too critical a role to save $20.
My crank shaft position sensor when out, and the car misfired on all cylinders. I bent the front passanger side intake pushrod bad. I replaced the pushrod and everything was fine for awhile. I'm guessing the bent pushrod cracked the lifter tray and aloud the lifter to spin.



