I am currently in the market for a LS1 CAM that will give me 360 RWHP or more with stock heads, stock injectors, and a stock tune. Basically, I was wondering if it’s possible to just throw a $389 CAM into the stock LS1 and expect these horsepower figures? I would like to hear some recommendations on a CAM that will give me maximum power with everything stock and still be able to keep a steady idle/low end power for streetability.

I have JBA Headers and no cats.

Sorry if I sound like a newbie, but I’ve asked around and people are giving me different answers (TR 220/553/114 ?) and I would like to hear what the gurus here have to say.

Thanks!

 

mostly any cam with the supporting mods, headers, cat-back, LS6 intake,P&P TB, tune...

 

Torquer 2 cam will give you about 390rwhp with a tune.

 

Since your running headers and plan on getting a cam.....you could always go with the gm hot cam, but if your planning on getting a good cam with street manners go for a TR 224/224.......its a great proven cam, and why not get a tune?

 

I have the VHP 056 cam, 216/224 0.551/0.551 114.5 LSA. Idles like stock with a slight chop. Made 370 hp with it and its quiet due to the slower lobe rates. The TR224 is also a great cam. The hp level you are seeking is very attainable with what would be considered here on LS1tech a "baby cam". You should be able to hit your numbers, have a very street friendly setup that isn't too hard on the valve train and still meet emissions.

 

MTI Stealth II Camshaft

 

Thunder Racing CheaTR cam or Old man cam. Neither of those 2 would require tuning.

The JBA's are shorties?

Are you A4 or M6?

 

you said something about just "throwing in a $389 cam"

and the answer is no

you AT VERY LEAST need valve springs, your stockers wont hold very long even on a slight increase in lift. Those are just a safe investment for your motor, i personally would get pushrods too, another move just to be safe.

 

Futral F10 or F11. Will give you 370+. And be very driveable.

 

Why are you opposed to a tune? With long tube headers and a good tune, the stock LS1 (with an M6) will make 360rwhp easily. Plus you will still have the stock idle and driveability you are inquiring about. For 360rwhp, you are best to do only bolt-ons and a tune, that is better spent money IMHO.

 

CRITERIA IN ORIGINAL POST:

LS1 CAM that will give me 360 RWHP or more with stock heads, stock injectors, and a stock tune.

LPE GT2-3 CAM (Lingenfelter), maybe not 360rwhp but close with basic mods.
What year is your ride?

Basically, I was wondering if it’s possible to just throw a $389 CAM into the stock LS1 and expect these horsepower figures?

No it will cost more, that cam requires LS6 springs, plus you have to figure out install necessities.Minimum ~$600.00

 

Get the Vinci High Perf #56 cam I made 377 rwhp with crane gld roller rockers.Very streetable nice sound too.

 

Really? My old club had about 20 cars with LT's. Not one hit more then 345 with a tune. 360 with just headers and bolt ons is gonna be a super lucky crap shoot!

 

heres a good one, Crane #144HR00032. it will need tuning though.

 

Thats exactly what i was thinkin. 360whp is not easy.

Just get a cam kit and a tune and you'll see 370-400....

 

If you have dumped the cats, you should probably get a tune regardless. O2 simms keep the check engine light off, but you still have COT enabled, and a tune otherwise optimized for manifolds and cats.

I would recommend a mail order tune in lieu of nothing at all. You may be best off getting a cam kit and a tune in a package deal from one of the board sponsors.

 

Do a search on the dyno section, most F-bodies with only long tubes will yield 340-370 rwhp (A4-M6) with a proper tune. Without a tune, I would expect otherwise.

ri5e, with every cam you will need a tune, otherwise you will run into driveability issues. Just like getting springs for the cam is necessary, so is a tune. But every cam that is larger then the stock can yield your target 360rwhp.

 

forget the cam just get all the bolt on and free mods , youd be close to that range then.
and get some gears and if A4 get a stall!

 

I searched and looked at the first three pages and found several in the 330-350 range, which is normal. I found one or two that broke 350+. To say that 340 to 370 is something that could normally be attained from just both ons is pretty far out there. Ive seen a few bolt on + baby cam cars barely break 370, which we all know could have something to do with the tuning.

I was in disbelief at the easily attained 360 comment, but to now throw in 370 blows my mind.

 

People will believe any dyno numbers they see unfortunately.