oil pump
02-02-2008, 05:46 PM
#21
LS1Tech Sponsor
Oil pressure rule of thumb On many of the newer engines this rule of thumb, although safe, is more pressure than needed.
On the other hand, start talking to the tractor pull turbo engine guys making TONS of torque at low rpm and they have entirely different rules for oil pressure (read that to be LOTS of oil pressure at very low rpm).
On the other hand, start talking to the tractor pull turbo engine guys making TONS of torque at low rpm and they have entirely different rules for oil pressure (read that to be LOTS of oil pressure at very low rpm).
02-03-2008, 07:02 AM
#22
"The Melling 10296 and the high volume GM pump that we sell (we sell and use the Melling 10296 as well) are recommended if you have larger than stock clearances or something else causing you to need increased oil pump volume in order to achieve good oil pressure (different bearing design, etc.)."
Jason
I bought a Lingenfelter LS6 shortblock in 2004 from you guys, an ASA motor is what the description was back then. Are the bearing clearances stock? As in do you recommend the 295 or 296 for that motor? I went with a new LS6 oil pump and the pressure looks like the picture posted above. I know it has Professional assembly & blueprinting; is it possible to get a copy of the blueprinting 4 years later? As in do you keep a database of such builds?
John Tokar
Jason
I bought a Lingenfelter LS6 shortblock in 2004 from you guys, an ASA motor is what the description was back then. Are the bearing clearances stock? As in do you recommend the 295 or 296 for that motor? I went with a new LS6 oil pump and the pressure looks like the picture posted above. I know it has Professional assembly & blueprinting; is it possible to get a copy of the blueprinting 4 years later? As in do you keep a database of such builds?
John Tokar
02-03-2008, 02:48 PM
#23
LS1Tech Sponsor
ASA LS6 shortblock If it was an ASA style shortblock, then it is a stock factory short block - we didn't take the bottom ends apart on the ASA engines (except on rebuilds). The only rotating assembly work we did on the ASA engines was change the rod bolts but that was done one rod bolt at a time without removing the caps.
If it was an engine we actually built from the ground up or rebuilt, then we should still have a build sheet for it. Get me the name and repair order or invoice # and I can check on it. PM or email me about this. (Not really on topic anymore.)
If it is a stock short block it likely has the stock bearing design and the stock crankshaft radiuses and likely stock or close to stock clearances. Even if you have looser clearances, if you have the oil pressure shown in the image posted earlier when your engine is fully warmed up, then you have proper oil pressure and don't need a bigger pump.
If your pressure is a little lower than needed, then I would go with the 10296 since it flows roughly 18% more than the LS1/LS6/LS2 pump. If you pressure if good then I would go with the 10295 or a stock pump. If your pressure is very low, then the GM high volume pump we sell that is over 30% higher volume than the stock pump.
Not that this would apply to your engine but just as an FYI, one of the areas where we see the biggest pressure drop is when switching to mechanical roller lifters (versus hydraulic). Most of the aftermarket mechanical lifters are slightly undersizes and unless you bush the block and make the lifter bores smaller as well then you tend to see higher oil loss (lower oil pressure) due to the lifter clearances. The lifters are already one of the largest sources of oil leakage in the engine. The other area that I already hinted at in the previous paragraph is that most aftermarket bearings and crankshafts use different radiuses (larger) and different oil hole designs that tend to increase the oil pressure leakage around the bearing and radius.
If it was an engine we actually built from the ground up or rebuilt, then we should still have a build sheet for it. Get me the name and repair order or invoice # and I can check on it. PM or email me about this. (Not really on topic anymore.)
If it is a stock short block it likely has the stock bearing design and the stock crankshaft radiuses and likely stock or close to stock clearances. Even if you have looser clearances, if you have the oil pressure shown in the image posted earlier when your engine is fully warmed up, then you have proper oil pressure and don't need a bigger pump.
If your pressure is a little lower than needed, then I would go with the 10296 since it flows roughly 18% more than the LS1/LS6/LS2 pump. If you pressure if good then I would go with the 10295 or a stock pump. If your pressure is very low, then the GM high volume pump we sell that is over 30% higher volume than the stock pump.
Not that this would apply to your engine but just as an FYI, one of the areas where we see the biggest pressure drop is when switching to mechanical roller lifters (versus hydraulic). Most of the aftermarket mechanical lifters are slightly undersizes and unless you bush the block and make the lifter bores smaller as well then you tend to see higher oil loss (lower oil pressure) due to the lifter clearances. The lifters are already one of the largest sources of oil leakage in the engine. The other area that I already hinted at in the previous paragraph is that most aftermarket bearings and crankshafts use different radiuses (larger) and different oil hole designs that tend to increase the oil pressure leakage around the bearing and radius.
"The Melling 10296 and the high volume GM pump that we sell (we sell and use the Melling 10296 as well) are recommended if you have larger than stock clearances or something else causing you to need increased oil pump volume in order to achieve good oil pressure (different bearing design, etc.)."
Jason
I bought a Lingenfelter LS6 shortblock in 2004 from you guys, an ASA motor is what the description was back then. Are the bearing clearances stock? As in do you recommend the 295 or 296 for that motor? I went with a new LS6 oil pump and the pressure looks like the picture posted above. I know it has Professional assembly & blueprinting; is it possible to get a copy of the blueprinting 4 years later? As in do you keep a database of such builds?
John Tokar
Jason
I bought a Lingenfelter LS6 shortblock in 2004 from you guys, an ASA motor is what the description was back then. Are the bearing clearances stock? As in do you recommend the 295 or 296 for that motor? I went with a new LS6 oil pump and the pressure looks like the picture posted above. I know it has Professional assembly & blueprinting; is it possible to get a copy of the blueprinting 4 years later? As in do you keep a database of such builds?
John Tokar
02-05-2008, 01:19 AM
#24
I have a 00' Firehawk that has great oil pressure. I am going to have it apart soon and I am thinking about changing the oil pump out because of all the horror stories I have read.
So these new pumps don't have the same failure problems as the factory pumps did?
Also, off topic, but LPE, you guys do any tuning up there? I will shoot you a PM.
So these new pumps don't have the same failure problems as the factory pumps did?
Also, off topic, but LPE, you guys do any tuning up there? I will shoot you a PM.
02-19-2008, 06:35 AM
#26
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So the choices are: Okay so I have been trying to find out more information about what is good or not good when it comes to oil pumps for LS engines so I can make an educated guess as to the best one for me.
To summarise what I have read here and in other threads there are 7 main choices for oil pumps, two Melling units, #10296 HP unit, #10295 stock replacement, GM#12586665 LS1/6 pump, GM#17801830 GM High Output, GM#12571885 old L92 AFM pump, GM#12612289 current GM AFM oil pump and the SDPC ported melling pump(?)
Now from I have read you could put the options in the following order:
GM# 12571885 -Too much flow - old AFM application pump
GM# 12612289 -Too much flow - current AFM application pump(42psi bypass spring)
GM# 17801830 -high but ok? - High output oil pump
SDPC polished/ported - best? - higher version of #10296?
Melling #10296 - next best
GM# 12586665 / Melling #10295 - ok
(Above relates to the advised use with a standard engine)
Now my engine is not going to be quite standard (416 ci L92 block with LS2 heads + f-body sump) and I am not sure that exactly the same restrictions would apply to me...
Now I was originally thinking of just using the #10296 but since reading up some more on the different alternatives I have been thinking that I might be able to use the GM#12612289 pump with some kind of fine grain filter inline with the pump output and so make use of the extra flow and pressure to improve the oil filtration, does this seem realistic?
To summarise what I have read here and in other threads there are 7 main choices for oil pumps, two Melling units, #10296 HP unit, #10295 stock replacement, GM#12586665 LS1/6 pump, GM#17801830 GM High Output, GM#12571885 old L92 AFM pump, GM#12612289 current GM AFM oil pump and the SDPC ported melling pump(?)
Now from I have read you could put the options in the following order:
GM# 12571885 -Too much flow - old AFM application pump
GM# 12612289 -Too much flow - current AFM application pump(42psi bypass spring)
GM# 17801830 -high but ok? - High output oil pump
SDPC polished/ported - best? - higher version of #10296?
Melling #10296 - next best
GM# 12586665 / Melling #10295 - ok
(Above relates to the advised use with a standard engine)
Now my engine is not going to be quite standard (416 ci L92 block with LS2 heads + f-body sump) and I am not sure that exactly the same restrictions would apply to me...
Now I was originally thinking of just using the #10296 but since reading up some more on the different alternatives I have been thinking that I might be able to use the GM#12612289 pump with some kind of fine grain filter inline with the pump output and so make use of the extra flow and pressure to improve the oil filtration, does this seem realistic?
02-19-2008, 10:06 AM
#27
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Just a quick question. When running a GTO front sump oil pan, would you recommend the standard pressure oil pump or the high pressure? The reason I am asking is because under hard acceleration when the oil is pushed to the back of the engine, would the front sump be starved of oil with a high pressure pump?
Jared
Jared
02-19-2008, 11:24 AM
#28
LS1Tech Sponsor
Oil pumps A couple corrections on that list of pumps and other basic pump information:
The GM# 17801830 pump, although listed as a high volume pump in the GMPP catalog is the exact same volume as the 12586665 LS1, LS2, LS6 etc. pumps. It is not a high volume pump. You buy one and it comes in a different box and includes the O-ring and you buy the other and it comes in a different box with no O-ring.
The 12612289 and the 12571885 are the same volume but it is the 12612289 that has a lower pressure relief spring (roughly 33 psi vs 43 psi initial relief pressure for the 12571885).
The 10296 and the SDPC ported version of the 10296 are going to flow roughly 18% more volume than the stock LS1, LS2, LS6, LQ4, LQ9 etc. pumps (17801830 & 12586665). The 10296 pump shouldn't need any porting and porting makes very little difference in the flow capability of these types of oil pumps (the casting quality and design of the OE pump and the Melling pump are fairly good).
If you have good hot idle oil pressure, you don't need the Melling 10296 or the GM high volume AFM (formerly known as DOD) pump. Most stock GM short block engines don’t need the higher volume pump. If you have low hot oil pressure on one of these engines, look for the problem/cause of the low oil pressure before trying to fix it with a bigger pump.
The Melling 10295 pump is the same volume as the stock LS1, LS2, LS6, LQ4, LQ9 etc. pumps (17801830 & 12586665) but it has a different pressure control valve spring that starts to relieve at a higher oil pressure. This is why the Melling 10295 pump can improve low rpm/idle oil pressure over the stock pump. It also has some other design changes that should be better from a durability and leakage standpoint (face plate design etc.).
As a low cost way to try and improve idle oil pressure on the stock pump you can replace the stock pressure spring with a heavier spring or shim the stock spring. This only helps because the initial cracking pressure on the stock pump is fairly low (around 15 psi or so).
If you have low oil pressure when hot, then you probably need one of the two high volume pumps (GM or Melling). How much more volume you need depends on your engine build (clearances etc.), the oil temperatures, added restrictions (oil cooler and lines), etc.
We have used the high volume Melling and GM pumps in many of our engine builds and have not seen issues with high rpm oil pressure loss due to emptying of the pan. This is from testing on the engine dynamometer and in vehicle. We don’t put the high volume pumps in every engine build, only those that we think will need it, and we rarely use the high pressure springs.
Regarding too much flow - keep in mind that once the pressure setting on the relief valve is achieved, the pump pulls less oil from the pan. It doesn't keep pumping the same (or more oil) then dump it back into the pan. On this type of oil pump, you don't have a return feed to the pan from the pump like you would on an external oil pressure regulator. The pressure regulator dumps the oil back into the inlet side of the pump so you are just recirculating the oil inside the pump when you start to go into pressure relief.
For the pump to be pumping more oil out of the pan (for the same exact engine configuration) you have to have more oil pressure. The engine is just an orifice restriction to the pump so it is a simple pressure-volume ratio system at that point. To get more pressure, you need more volume. If the pressure is the same then the volume of flow is the same.
If people are having problems emptying the pan then they probably have too high a pressure spring in the pump or the engine build clearances are too high (so the pump has to pump more oil volume to achieve the same pressure).
For the same pressure control valve spring pressure, you will probably see higher oil pressure from the higher volume pumps because the pump is able to supply the volume needed to achieve that pressure.
Sizing the pump too big is inefficient since, when the pressure regulator is bypassing, the pump is still doing work - you are just wasting that work (some of it) by bypassing back to the inlet side of the pump.
Although we haven’t seen this in testing, sizing the pump too big could also possibly cause oil aeration if the pump leaked any air past the housing and pulled that air into the pump.
If you were to convert to an external oil pressure regulator, like those used on some dry sump systems, then you are returning all of the un-used oil back to the pan and then significant oil aeration issues could exist if you had excessive oil return from the pressure control valve due to excess oil pump flow.
Another area for improvements that hasn’t been discussed (and is probably an entire thread of its own) could be oil drainback problems/improvements on the LS series engines. Many of the things done on other engines also apply to the LS series engines. In addition, crankcase pressure/blow by problems can also impede oil drain back to the pan.
To summarize, if you are emptying the oil pan on a Gen III or IV GM V8 engine with a GM or Melling production style design oil pump and pressure control valve then you probably have too high a pressure spring in the pressure control valve or your engine build tolerances are too loose.
The GM# 17801830 pump, although listed as a high volume pump in the GMPP catalog is the exact same volume as the 12586665 LS1, LS2, LS6 etc. pumps. It is not a high volume pump. You buy one and it comes in a different box and includes the O-ring and you buy the other and it comes in a different box with no O-ring.
The 12612289 and the 12571885 are the same volume but it is the 12612289 that has a lower pressure relief spring (roughly 33 psi vs 43 psi initial relief pressure for the 12571885).
The 10296 and the SDPC ported version of the 10296 are going to flow roughly 18% more volume than the stock LS1, LS2, LS6, LQ4, LQ9 etc. pumps (17801830 & 12586665). The 10296 pump shouldn't need any porting and porting makes very little difference in the flow capability of these types of oil pumps (the casting quality and design of the OE pump and the Melling pump are fairly good).
If you have good hot idle oil pressure, you don't need the Melling 10296 or the GM high volume AFM (formerly known as DOD) pump. Most stock GM short block engines don’t need the higher volume pump. If you have low hot oil pressure on one of these engines, look for the problem/cause of the low oil pressure before trying to fix it with a bigger pump.
The Melling 10295 pump is the same volume as the stock LS1, LS2, LS6, LQ4, LQ9 etc. pumps (17801830 & 12586665) but it has a different pressure control valve spring that starts to relieve at a higher oil pressure. This is why the Melling 10295 pump can improve low rpm/idle oil pressure over the stock pump. It also has some other design changes that should be better from a durability and leakage standpoint (face plate design etc.).
As a low cost way to try and improve idle oil pressure on the stock pump you can replace the stock pressure spring with a heavier spring or shim the stock spring. This only helps because the initial cracking pressure on the stock pump is fairly low (around 15 psi or so).
If you have low oil pressure when hot, then you probably need one of the two high volume pumps (GM or Melling). How much more volume you need depends on your engine build (clearances etc.), the oil temperatures, added restrictions (oil cooler and lines), etc.
We have used the high volume Melling and GM pumps in many of our engine builds and have not seen issues with high rpm oil pressure loss due to emptying of the pan. This is from testing on the engine dynamometer and in vehicle. We don’t put the high volume pumps in every engine build, only those that we think will need it, and we rarely use the high pressure springs.
Regarding too much flow - keep in mind that once the pressure setting on the relief valve is achieved, the pump pulls less oil from the pan. It doesn't keep pumping the same (or more oil) then dump it back into the pan. On this type of oil pump, you don't have a return feed to the pan from the pump like you would on an external oil pressure regulator. The pressure regulator dumps the oil back into the inlet side of the pump so you are just recirculating the oil inside the pump when you start to go into pressure relief.
For the pump to be pumping more oil out of the pan (for the same exact engine configuration) you have to have more oil pressure. The engine is just an orifice restriction to the pump so it is a simple pressure-volume ratio system at that point. To get more pressure, you need more volume. If the pressure is the same then the volume of flow is the same.
If people are having problems emptying the pan then they probably have too high a pressure spring in the pump or the engine build clearances are too high (so the pump has to pump more oil volume to achieve the same pressure).
For the same pressure control valve spring pressure, you will probably see higher oil pressure from the higher volume pumps because the pump is able to supply the volume needed to achieve that pressure.
Sizing the pump too big is inefficient since, when the pressure regulator is bypassing, the pump is still doing work - you are just wasting that work (some of it) by bypassing back to the inlet side of the pump.
Although we haven’t seen this in testing, sizing the pump too big could also possibly cause oil aeration if the pump leaked any air past the housing and pulled that air into the pump.
If you were to convert to an external oil pressure regulator, like those used on some dry sump systems, then you are returning all of the un-used oil back to the pan and then significant oil aeration issues could exist if you had excessive oil return from the pressure control valve due to excess oil pump flow.
Another area for improvements that hasn’t been discussed (and is probably an entire thread of its own) could be oil drainback problems/improvements on the LS series engines. Many of the things done on other engines also apply to the LS series engines. In addition, crankcase pressure/blow by problems can also impede oil drain back to the pan.
To summarize, if you are emptying the oil pan on a Gen III or IV GM V8 engine with a GM or Melling production style design oil pump and pressure control valve then you probably have too high a pressure spring in the pressure control valve or your engine build tolerances are too loose.
Okay so I have been trying to find out more information about what is good or not good when it comes to oil pumps for LS engines so I can make an educated guess as to the best one for me.
To summarise what I have read here and in other threads there are 7 main choices for oil pumps, two Melling units, #10296 HP unit, #10295 stock replacement, GM#12586665 LS1/6 pump, GM#17801830 GM High Output, GM#12571885 old L92 AFM pump, GM#12612289 current GM AFM oil pump and the SDPC ported melling pump(?)
Now from I have read you could put the options in the following order:
GM# 12571885 -Too much flow - old AFM application pump
GM# 12612289 -Too much flow - current AFM application pump(42psi bypass spring)
GM# 17801830 -high but ok? - High output oil pump
SDPC polished/ported - best? - higher version of #10296?
Melling #10296 - next best
GM# 12586665 / Melling #10295 - ok
(Above relates to the advised use with a standard engine)
Now my engine is not going to be quite standard (416 ci L92 block with LS2 heads + f-body sump) and I am not sure that exactly the same restrictions would apply to me...
Now I was originally thinking of just using the #10296 but since reading up some more on the different alternatives I have been thinking that I might be able to use the GM#12612289 pump with some kind of fine grain filter inline with the pump output and so make use of the extra flow and pressure to improve the oil filtration, does this seem realistic?
To summarise what I have read here and in other threads there are 7 main choices for oil pumps, two Melling units, #10296 HP unit, #10295 stock replacement, GM#12586665 LS1/6 pump, GM#17801830 GM High Output, GM#12571885 old L92 AFM pump, GM#12612289 current GM AFM oil pump and the SDPC ported melling pump(?)
Now from I have read you could put the options in the following order:
GM# 12571885 -Too much flow - old AFM application pump
GM# 12612289 -Too much flow - current AFM application pump(42psi bypass spring)
GM# 17801830 -high but ok? - High output oil pump
SDPC polished/ported - best? - higher version of #10296?
Melling #10296 - next best
GM# 12586665 / Melling #10295 - ok
(Above relates to the advised use with a standard engine)
Now my engine is not going to be quite standard (416 ci L92 block with LS2 heads + f-body sump) and I am not sure that exactly the same restrictions would apply to me...
Now I was originally thinking of just using the #10296 but since reading up some more on the different alternatives I have been thinking that I might be able to use the GM#12612289 pump with some kind of fine grain filter inline with the pump output and so make use of the extra flow and pressure to improve the oil filtration, does this seem realistic?
02-19-2008, 05:19 PM
#29
Hey Jason, i just recently bought one of your high volume oil pumps and left the high pressure spring installed. Do you think this is going to cause issues? It's on a cammed 2000 LS1 60k stock bottom end, i do have a 7qt moroso oil pan and deep sump with external filter that has 1/2" lines running to it. I had figured i might as well just go with a higher volume pump since my cam had such high lift, figured the more oil the better.
02-19-2008, 10:49 PM
#31
LS1Tech Sponsor
GTO pan I would base your oil pump decision on your oil volume/pressure requirements. If you have a stock short block (as built by the factory) then you are probably fine with a stock pump (maybe with a new spring or shim on the pressure control valve) or the 10295 Melling pump. If you have a rebuilt engine with different than stock clearances or aftermarket parts with different clearances and bearing designs, then a larger pump may be needed to get back to the correct oil pressure.
Just a quick question. When running a GTO front sump oil pan, would you recommend the standard pressure oil pump or the high pressure? The reason I am asking is because under hard acceleration when the oil is pushed to the back of the engine, would the front sump be starved of oil with a high pressure pump?
Jared
Jared
02-19-2008, 10:53 PM
#32
LS1Tech Sponsor
High volume pump Shawn,
The camshaft difference should not require a different oil pump. I would recommend you use the low pressure spring for your application since you already have the oil pump. With a stock bottom end I would have probably recommended the 10295 or the 10296 Melling since you shouldn't need the volume of the high volume pump.
Do you already have the engine back together and running? If so, what is your warmed up idle oil pressure and what is your peak oil pressure (at probably around 5000 or 6000 rpm)?
The camshaft difference should not require a different oil pump. I would recommend you use the low pressure spring for your application since you already have the oil pump. With a stock bottom end I would have probably recommended the 10295 or the 10296 Melling since you shouldn't need the volume of the high volume pump.
Do you already have the engine back together and running? If so, what is your warmed up idle oil pressure and what is your peak oil pressure (at probably around 5000 or 6000 rpm)?
Hey Jason, i just recently bought one of your high volume oil pumps and left the high pressure spring installed. Do you think this is going to cause issues? It's on a cammed 2000 LS1 60k stock bottom end, i do have a 7qt moroso oil pan and deep sump with external filter that has 1/2" lines running to it. I had figured i might as well just go with a higher volume pump since my cam had such high lift, figured the more oil the better.
04-12-2008, 12:56 AM
#33
i read all this thsi is good info...question are any of these prone to breaking? i mean do you reccomend the mellings sice they are stronger or just bc they are aftermarket?
or if i have within stock clearences and stock lifters ect will i be fine with just a new gm or o reilleys pump?
or if i have within stock clearences and stock lifters ect will i be fine with just a new gm or o reilleys pump?
04-12-2008, 11:02 AM
#35
TECH Apprentice
i went with the stock volume Melling pump. I was told that unless I had an oil pan that held more than the stock volume of oil, A high flow pump shouldn't be used.
04-12-2008, 04:09 PM
#36
LS1Tech Sponsor
oil pump selection For stock bottom end with stock lifters I would feel fine using a stock GM pump.
The primary things I like better about the Melling pumps are the pressure control valve spring and the cast pump cover. The anodized body on the 10296 is a nice added touch with the anodized bore for the pressure control valve potentially improving durability.
I wouldn't say any of them (stock or aftermarket) are prone to breaking. When they do fail, the most common failure we have seen is the ressure control valve sticking. The higher initial cracking pressure of the Melling pressure control valve spring and the anodized body of the 10296 pump should both help this problem.
We have seen a lot more engines with the factory pump so it is hard to compare the failure rate of the stock pump to the aftermarket pumps since not nearly as many of the aftermarket pumps are in use and they haven't been in use for as long either.
The primary things I like better about the Melling pumps are the pressure control valve spring and the cast pump cover. The anodized body on the 10296 is a nice added touch with the anodized bore for the pressure control valve potentially improving durability.
I wouldn't say any of them (stock or aftermarket) are prone to breaking. When they do fail, the most common failure we have seen is the ressure control valve sticking. The higher initial cracking pressure of the Melling pressure control valve spring and the anodized body of the 10296 pump should both help this problem.
We have seen a lot more engines with the factory pump so it is hard to compare the failure rate of the stock pump to the aftermarket pumps since not nearly as many of the aftermarket pumps are in use and they haven't been in use for as long either.
i read all this thsi is good info...question are any of these prone to breaking? i mean do you reccomend the mellings sice they are stronger or just bc they are aftermarket?
or if i have within stock clearences and stock lifters ect will i be fine with just a new gm or o reilleys pump?
or if i have within stock clearences and stock lifters ect will i be fine with just a new gm or o reilleys pump?
04-12-2008, 07:20 PM
#38
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04-13-2008, 08:35 AM
#39
I run a remote mount filter (extra 8ft of 1/2" oil lines) and have a 7qt pan so you might not need the extra pressure. I'm thinking pressure is going to be more like 80psi when its around 6k or so haha. If its too high i might even integrate an oil cooler in line just to give it a little more room to run the oil. I was trying ot decide if i was going to go TT with the engine. Since i already had a remote mount filter i figured i was halfway there lmao.
What harm can excessive oil pressure/volume do to an engine? Heat up the oil more? Rob HP? Spin rod bearing?
What harm can excessive oil pressure/volume do to an engine? Heat up the oil more? Rob HP? Spin rod bearing?
04-27-2008, 09:42 AM
#40
Jason, First off Thanks for the reluctor wheels you sold me.
I am doing a build up on an Iron block 5.3L
I was thinking about getting 10296 hard anodized pump before reading this post. The crank was polished and is still withen Factory standard size spec on the rods and mains. The block will be bored for a new set of pistons as soon as we get the price sheet From Mahle. They recently released Stock replacment pistons for these in over bore sizes so I dont have to go through GM. Since it is not going to get any Juice or Forced induction, I would consider it a stock type rebuild with a large cam and upgraded heads for my DD.
The tired 5.3 in it now gets 40 Psi warmed up and 60 ish under load. When you first start it cold, Its around 60 ish. I start running Valoline 10-30 High millage oil because of all the Noise and because it was burning oil real bad. The additives stoped the oil burning and smoking and it is not as loud as it used to be.
What Oil Pump would you recomend me using?
What are my options for timing chains?
I was looking at going to a true roller style timing Chain, How ever it seems there may be an issue with fitment? What are you guys using?
I also have an Iron 6.0L I would like to build up too... but those two things are kinda holding me back since I can't seem to get a clear straight forward answer.
I am doing a build up on an Iron block 5.3L
I was thinking about getting 10296 hard anodized pump before reading this post. The crank was polished and is still withen Factory standard size spec on the rods and mains. The block will be bored for a new set of pistons as soon as we get the price sheet From Mahle. They recently released Stock replacment pistons for these in over bore sizes so I dont have to go through GM. Since it is not going to get any Juice or Forced induction, I would consider it a stock type rebuild with a large cam and upgraded heads for my DD.
The tired 5.3 in it now gets 40 Psi warmed up and 60 ish under load. When you first start it cold, Its around 60 ish. I start running Valoline 10-30 High millage oil because of all the Noise and because it was burning oil real bad. The additives stoped the oil burning and smoking and it is not as loud as it used to be.
What Oil Pump would you recomend me using?
What are my options for timing chains?
I was looking at going to a true roller style timing Chain, How ever it seems there may be an issue with fitment? What are you guys using?
I also have an Iron 6.0L I would like to build up too... but those two things are kinda holding me back since I can't seem to get a clear straight forward answer.