Ls1 383
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I know they arent the same
the biggest difference is the crank they are still a pretty penny
but $2000 for the kit and LS6 maf should surfice for a while dont you think?
the biggest difference is the crank they are still a pretty penny
but $2000 for the kit and LS6 maf should surfice for a while dont you think?
I would say that the 383 Eagle balanced assembly is the most reasonably priced good quality (performance) kit and that runs approximately $2700. Modding a LS1/LS6 that makes over 500/500 and is reliable (can take the punishment) will cost $12000 to $15000...good quality parts are very expensive. If $2000 is your present budget...then make good selections as to what parts will add the most HP/TQ to your combo today and then add on as money allows. Stay with your 346 as a stroker is not necessary to make good power...this wil leave you with more money for additional mods down the road. l
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I know my crank alone cost 1200, then add 600 for some diamond pistons around another 600 for a good forged rod. I know the machine work cost me around 2 grand. A new camshaft is around 400 dollars. If you need better lifters or pushrods better acount for those as well. I know personally I have around 12000 in my stroker right now.
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If you want 400 to the wheels you will need a good exhaust system (headers), a cam, and a good tune. Then you might get close depending on the cam size.
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Verdad Gallardo I would say that the 383 Eagle balanced assembly is the most reasonably priced good quality (performance) kit and that runs approximately $2700. Modding a LS1/LS6 that makes over 500/500 and is reliable (can take the punishment) will cost $12000 to $15000...good quality parts are very expensive. If $2000 is your present budget...then make good selections as to what parts will add the most HP/TQ to your combo today and then add on as money allows. Stay with your 346 as a stroker is not necessary to make good power...this wil leave you with more money for additional mods down the road. l
If you put a rock stock LS6 crate motor on a dyno with headers and no accessories (the old school way) it is over 450hp. You don't need a stroker for your goals.
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yea but a new crate engine is costly
i just want an engine with 400ish hp to get me through life til i can save enough to build a big cube LSX
I dont like the fragility of aluminum blocks
and cast iron is the way to go
i just want an engine with 400ish hp to get me through life til i can save enough to build a big cube LSX
I dont like the fragility of aluminum blocks
and cast iron is the way to go
Fragile aluminum blocks? If you already have an LS1, your starting point is an honest 350 hp. You can very easily get 400-450 out of it. Rock stock bottom end with ARP rod bolts, patriot heads, 224-228dur .580ish lift cam, headers, done.
Dude, it's starting to sound like you need to build an old school 350 small block.
Dude, it's starting to sound like you need to build an old school 350 small block.
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Dont get me wrong i love the LS alminum engines
but i would rather build my own engine using the LSX cast iron
and once you overheat aluminum nothing is ever the same again
you can overheat iron and it goe pretty much back to the same place
to me thats more reliability
but i would rather build my own engine using the LSX cast iron
and once you overheat aluminum nothing is ever the same again
you can overheat iron and it goe pretty much back to the same place
to me thats more reliability
Dont get me wrong i love the LS alminum engines
but i would rather build my own engine using the LSX cast iron
and once you overheat aluminum nothing is ever the same again
you can overheat iron and it goe pretty much back to the same place
to me thats more reliability
but i would rather build my own engine using the LSX cast iron
and once you overheat aluminum nothing is ever the same again
you can overheat iron and it goe pretty much back to the same place
to me thats more reliability
2. Do you know how often old school 350 cast iron heads crack? Get them over 240-250 they're done.
3. Sounds like you're being fed outdated info by a well meaning but uninformed old school source who believes the way they did it in the 60's and 70's is the best. There are a bunch of those around, they get outrun by near stock aluminum LS1's.
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lol guess the source.
My dad lol
but he ran with a 427 ina 68 camaro
then a 400 in a 71 vette
so he knows HIS cars and knows nothing about LS series
and yes overheating is bad but sometimes it happens and when it does i want to know it wont be major if i stop and dont keep running with it
My dad lol
but he ran with a 427 ina 68 camaro
then a 400 in a 71 vette
so he knows HIS cars and knows nothing about LS series
and yes overheating is bad but sometimes it happens and when it does i want to know it wont be major if i stop and dont keep running with it
I have nothing against old school. I'm old enough that I cut my teeth racing old school but young enough to know technology marches on. I have a video of my almost all stock 112,000 mile camaro spanking a 440 magnum '70 'cuda in the quarter. Most cudas would barely even run by 100,000 miles.
Do some research about LS1's, they're badass engines but not particularly cheap. The same horsepower principles still apply, just with new and improved parts.
Do some research about LS1's, they're badass engines but not particularly cheap. The same horsepower principles still apply, just with new and improved parts.
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Yea i know they are getting really awesome under the hoods now a days
but i wish they would throw another BBC under the hood of some car
would be nice to have 600lbs of torque out of a production car
but i wish they would throw another BBC under the hood of some car
would be nice to have 600lbs of torque out of a production car