Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

I wish you would have went ahead (because you have the engine out of the car, and you are changing the rod bolts to aftermarket) and pulled the pistons and had the big ends of the rods checked. Sounds like you have your mind made up on not doing that. Make sure there is no trash left in the crankcase before you button it up. Good luck.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

The reason that I am not is because I am using Katech rod bolts. Same weight and size as stock. Also, I replaced the bearings and checked the clearances with plastigauge, everything checked out within factory spec. I guess I just do not understand what all of this fuss is about.

THE CHOP SHOP

iTrader: (7)

Plastigauge is only going to tell you the bearing clearance not if the rod is out of round. You should be fine and with the Katech's you have a much better shot of things staying in shape. It is just the fact that there is the possibility that by taking the capoff and swapping the bolts could have changed things slightly and with you having things so far torn down it would be well worth it to take the extrastep for the insurance.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I understand that. I was just under the impression that that was one of the biggest selling points for the Katechs, that there was no need for checking the rod when using them. But then again, that might be for when you leave one bolt tight and just change out the other, like Pred-Z was saying. Either way, I really think that I'll be okay. I've read alot on the subject and feel pretty confident that everything will be okay when I start this thing up again. But I appreciate all of the feedback.

Thanks

black_z

iTrader: (4)

Since you cracked both bolts on the rod, I would have them pulled and checked. No question.

Asmodeus

There's another mistake. Listening to the average internet poster. Even on LS1Tech.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

So really, you don't agree with me checking the bearings? Given the fact that I had an oil pump problem, and given what I found. Those bearings needed to be replaced, no questions asked and I'm glad that I looked in there and found them rather than just hope that they were okay and have never checked. I would rather know the condition of my motor.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

98RedBird,

For what it's worth, I once removed the crank & rod caps & bolts (SBC), then completely replaced the rod bearings & bolts. On the crank bearings, I only replaced the cap half & used a .002" thicker bearing to boot (engine had 60+K on it & I guessed). The car ran 70K more miles until it was sold & may still be running today.
BTW, while in there, I found that number 7 rod had a spun bearing that had been working its' way toward destruction (The car was bought used & my original intent was to replace only the rear main seal). Anyway, had the spun bearing not been found.... you know the rest.
My point is that sometimes we do things incorrectly & get away with it. I'm sure that if you looked @ the surface of my crank ....etc under magnification that they looked like a cracked mud pit. However, it worked & a rod didn't fly through the side of the block because I found a spun bearing while in there. Don't take my thread as advice, as I am one of those average internet posters. Just wanted you to know what happened when I did something similar, but, in a worse fashion. Good-luck

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Alright guys, you're all right. I should get the rods checked out. No sense in not knowing beyond a doubt about everything while I'm right in there. Should I change the main bearings as well? Or should I just leave them alone and not crack them open. The rod journals looked perfectly fine when I pulled the rod bearings out. Perfectly polished. I guess what I'm asking is what all I need to get checked out now that I'm here. Also, how much is it going to run me to have my rods checked and what are we looking for? Just out of roundness? If I just check to make sure the big end of the rods are within spec should I be safe then to go back together with everything? Also, when putting the bearings in the rods is there anything that I should know?

Thanks

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Well to wrap this thread up, I decided to go with forged rods and pistons because I'll be spraying in the near future as well. Anyways, thanks for the suggestions and advice guys, I appreciate it.

LivingCanvas

iTrader: (4)

Haha sweet! Have fun spraying dude!

PREDATOR-Z

If you do that you need to hone the cylinders to offer a "true" seating surface for the new rings. basicaly you then need to "rebuild" the shortblock.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Yeah, I read that I would need to hone the cylinders. What about if there is minimal wear? Every one of my cylinders still has the original crosshatching from the factory on them. How much does honing a block usually run? Should I have the crank polished? And lastly, what all would a rebuild include on these motors? Not being difficult, just redundant, to make sure I've covered all my bases.

Thanks

BES Stroked Nova

iTrader: (24)

do it right, get it rebuilt. they will do a hone job, fit the pistons and all that. Take it to a well know shop, PM and i will give my thoughts...

I cant agree with not checking the bearing while in there. These motors have a "cracked" rod end, and will only go on, and seat one way. I did Katech's in my buddies 25k mile LQ4 we built, looked at every bearing, and all looked great. Motor has seen 7k more than enough.

As far as my new motor goes, I am letting the pro's do it, I guess there is good reason why they won the engine master challenge. They know all the tricks. I cant say any names cause they are not a sponsor... yet

With the way your bearings look, and the problems you had before, i see why you checked, and i would say now would be the best time to get it all rebuilt, and ready for whatever you want to throw at it!

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Okay, sounds like I'll be getting it honed. I'll talk to TSP and see what they recommend as well. I'm just not sure of too many good machine shops down here in Southern Illinois... not sure if I trust any of them.

Asmodeus

I only agree with checking the bearings if you plan on replacing them. Once you "check" them, they need to be replaced even if they are still good.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

my bearings looked "ok ish" but i ordered new rod bearings to go with the new bolts....seen alot of 6600rpm rev limiter bumps since then....just put new bearings in...

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Sounds good, TSP will be able to help you out. Have fun spraying!

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Thanks! Looks like I'll be going with Diamond pistons and either Scat or Compstar rods with Katech rod bolts. I'm taking the block in tomorrow to have it cleaned, honed out to .005", new cam bearings installed and the crank polished and miced. Then I'll get to putting everything back together!

PREDATOR-Z

You will still need the assembly balanced and have the whole shortblock blueprinted. Unless you have the tools, it is just cheaper just to get a built shortblock done professionaly with a waranty.
Budget is always our concern but doing it half *** may cost twice as much in the future.