slowjoe99

iTrader: (7)

I am about to remove my engine and open it up and replace the rod bolts with Katech bolts... after reading this, should I just remove the old stock bolts and put the new katechs in?? and yes i know i'm thread hijacking but I think this is a good place to ask... sorry

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

There realy are too many unknown variables to answer that question. The original poster had issues in the past with his oil pump. This throws up a red flag, and warrents checking the bearings. In my mind, his intentions to check the bearings were correct, but once the cap was removed, he at that point needed to also replace the bearings and check the big end of the rod. This would leed to the need to remove the pistons, which require honning the bores and replacing the rings. I personaly have no experience with the Kaltech rod bolts. I run ARP bolts, which require higher torque, which in turn causes the rod to deform a little, which requires resizing of the big end of the rod. I personaly would never replace any bearing and/or rod bolt without also checking the rod's bore. But I am also a perfectionist.

So in my mind, to answer your question, you would need to give more info on your engines history. Have you had any oil pressure issues. Oil or water temp issues, do you race it alot, do you have any power adders like N2O or forced induction, have you changed cams? What are your goals? What brand of bolts are you going to? What else do you plan to do to it while you are changing the bolts?

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

What if the rod caps were removed, but the bearings were never touched? Is there a better chance that it will be ok since the bearing was never actually moved from the cap or is it still bad news?

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I think the problem is more so with cracking the rod open completely. When you do this and then re-torque it it can distort the actual rod end, this is what causes the problem. The bearing isn't seated correctly anymore. If you open the rod you NEED to replace the bearings.

This is what everyone kept telling me, and it really does make sense, rod bearings can be had for $25. The rods can be checked for pretty cheap too. Since you're right there does it not make more sense to just get it checked than to hope for the best and pray nothing goes wrong. I mean you're talking 20 minutes worth of work to swap bearings. It's just the smart way to do it plain and simple.

john563

iTrader: (17)

True. my clevite bearings were around $20. I replaced mine whem i did katechs back in june

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

My exact thoughts when I read the thread.

01 BERGER CAMARO SS

iTrader: (77)

new coated bearings

Eskimo

iTrader: (9)

Sorry if I'm being dense, I just want to confirm-

Either:
A: don't loosen more than one bolt at a time, or
b: pop the caps, pull the piston to have the rod checked, have the crank mic'd (meaning, remove it), replace all rod & crank bearings, hone piston bores (meaning, pull the engine)

With no middle ground?

My engine has 125k, makes no less than 40psi hot, no noises, no spray, etc. But if I'm going to change the rod bolts, I was thinking it would be good preventative maintenance to put in new bearings while I was down there..
I gather now that I'm gambling more by replacing them with new stock size bearings, rather than just leave the OEM ones in there?

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Your point "A" is correct.

Your point "B" is subjective.... If you crack the rod open the absolute least you need to do is replace the rod bearings. After that it's pretty much up to you with what you feel comfortable with. It's your dime. Since I already had my motor out I decided to take every precaution. I had the crank polished and mic'd, new cam, main and rod bearings, the block cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks and the cylinders bored and honed. I am also doing forged rods and pistons though, so I'm pretty sure you wouldn't have to go to quite the extent in which I did. But like I said, it's your motor... do what you feel comfortable with. But that middle ground you're looking for... I don't know. I'm not sure you're gonna find it. Everyone's opinion is going to vary.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I know that these engines are a lot different than Gen I engines. I also know that there are "rules" to do things by but no one really know's why. It's because, thats what I read some where or thats what someone has told me. I know I have fallen into that before too. For example, a HV pump will suck your stock pan dry, I didn't believe it till I did it on a LT1 engine build up.

Anyway thats not my point or my question.

Why is it on LS engines that it's possible to change rod bolts without taking them out of the engine and having a machine shop do it? Which leads me to my next question.

Why do you only take one bolt out at a time? Is it because the rods are "broke" and they are not smooth like Gen I rods?

If you take the rod cap off, you must then take them to the machine shop and have them checked? If thats the case, then what happens when you take them apart to install them in the engine? If you have to do it once, why not the second time?

Thanks for any info on this topic. I think I am going to put rod bolts and an oil pump in my Firehawk as a precaution since these two things seem to be the death of these engines. LS engines are suppose are a great engine, and GM couldn't get these two things right.

Checkmate007

WOW!

Amazing how the rod of the LS1 rod looks so much like that of the late powdered Chevy two dot rod found in the G2 LT1/LT4.

I like how the bolts thread into the rods like that! VERY SMART and much better! In the days of old you would have needed your rod reconditioned to replace the knureled press type rod bolts of old. But with that new set up you can get away with it. Thats a real slick idea by GM.

How long is an LS1 rod? Also what is the size of your connecting rod journal? Are the rods still 5.7 inches with a 2.100 inch journal?

PREDATOR-Z

stock 6.098 and aftermarket most popular 6.125 and some 6.100 depending on combo and stroke done or piston chosen