While doing rod bolts I checked out my bearings and now I'm wondering
#41
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am about to remove my engine and open it up and replace the rod bolts with Katech bolts... after reading this, should I just remove the old stock bolts and put the new katechs in?? and yes i know i'm thread hijacking but I think this is a good place to ask... sorry
#42
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So in my mind, to answer your question, you would need to give more info on your engines history. Have you had any oil pressure issues. Oil or water temp issues, do you race it alot, do you have any power adders like N2O or forced induction, have you changed cams? What are your goals? What brand of bolts are you going to? What else do you plan to do to it while you are changing the bolts?
#43
11 Second Club
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What if the rod caps were removed, but the bearings were never touched? Is there a better chance that it will be ok since the bearing was never actually moved from the cap or is it still bad news?
#44
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is what everyone kept telling me, and it really does make sense, rod bearings can be had for $25. The rods can be checked for pretty cheap too. Since you're right there does it not make more sense to just get it checked than to hope for the best and pray nothing goes wrong. I mean you're talking 20 minutes worth of work to swap bearings. It's just the smart way to do it plain and simple.
#45
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: dayton ohio
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think the problem is more so with cracking the rod open completely. When you do this and then re-torque it it can distort the actual rod end, this is what causes the problem. The bearing isn't seated correctly anymore. If you open the rod you NEED to replace the bearings.
This is what everyone kept telling me, and it really does make sense, rod bearings can be had for $25. The rods can be checked for pretty cheap too. Since you're right there does it not make more sense to just get it checked than to hope for the best and pray nothing goes wrong. I mean you're talking 20 minutes worth of work to swap bearings. It's just the smart way to do it plain and simple.
This is what everyone kept telling me, and it really does make sense, rod bearings can be had for $25. The rods can be checked for pretty cheap too. Since you're right there does it not make more sense to just get it checked than to hope for the best and pray nothing goes wrong. I mean you're talking 20 minutes worth of work to swap bearings. It's just the smart way to do it plain and simple.
#46
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You should have never touched those bearings or caps. You should have changed the bolts one at a time on the rod with one still tight.
Now you screwed yourself as the bearings are unseated.
Options:
1-Take a chance and just put them back on and pray
2- Replace all bearings and have your crank miced
Now you screwed yourself as the bearings are unseated.
Options:
1-Take a chance and just put them back on and pray
2- Replace all bearings and have your crank miced
My exact thoughts when I read the thread.
#48
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry if I'm being dense, I just want to confirm-
Either:
A: don't loosen more than one bolt at a time, or
b: pop the caps, pull the piston to have the rod checked, have the crank mic'd (meaning, remove it), replace all rod & crank bearings, hone piston bores (meaning, pull the engine)
With no middle ground?
My engine has 125k, makes no less than 40psi hot, no noises, no spray, etc. But if I'm going to change the rod bolts, I was thinking it would be good preventative maintenance to put in new bearings while I was down there..
I gather now that I'm gambling more by replacing them with new stock size bearings, rather than just leave the OEM ones in there?
Either:
A: don't loosen more than one bolt at a time, or
b: pop the caps, pull the piston to have the rod checked, have the crank mic'd (meaning, remove it), replace all rod & crank bearings, hone piston bores (meaning, pull the engine)
With no middle ground?
My engine has 125k, makes no less than 40psi hot, no noises, no spray, etc. But if I'm going to change the rod bolts, I was thinking it would be good preventative maintenance to put in new bearings while I was down there..
I gather now that I'm gambling more by replacing them with new stock size bearings, rather than just leave the OEM ones in there?
#49
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry if I'm being dense, I just want to confirm-
Either:
A: don't loosen more than one bolt at a time, or
b: pop the caps, pull the piston to have the rod checked, have the crank mic'd (meaning, remove it), replace all rod & crank bearings, hone piston bores (meaning, pull the engine)
With no middle ground?
My engine has 125k, makes no less than 40psi hot, no noises, no spray, etc. But if I'm going to change the rod bolts, I was thinking it would be good preventative maintenance to put in new bearings while I was down there..
I gather now that I'm gambling more by replacing them with new stock size bearings, rather than just leave the OEM ones in there?
Either:
A: don't loosen more than one bolt at a time, or
b: pop the caps, pull the piston to have the rod checked, have the crank mic'd (meaning, remove it), replace all rod & crank bearings, hone piston bores (meaning, pull the engine)
With no middle ground?
My engine has 125k, makes no less than 40psi hot, no noises, no spray, etc. But if I'm going to change the rod bolts, I was thinking it would be good preventative maintenance to put in new bearings while I was down there..
I gather now that I'm gambling more by replacing them with new stock size bearings, rather than just leave the OEM ones in there?
Your point "B" is subjective.... If you crack the rod open the absolute least you need to do is replace the rod bearings. After that it's pretty much up to you with what you feel comfortable with. It's your dime. Since I already had my motor out I decided to take every precaution. I had the crank polished and mic'd, new cam, main and rod bearings, the block cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks and the cylinders bored and honed. I am also doing forged rods and pistons though, so I'm pretty sure you wouldn't have to go to quite the extent in which I did. But like I said, it's your motor... do what you feel comfortable with. But that middle ground you're looking for... I don't know. I'm not sure you're gonna find it. Everyone's opinion is going to vary.
#50
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know that these engines are a lot different than Gen I engines. I also know that there are "rules" to do things by but no one really know's why. It's because, thats what I read some where or thats what someone has told me. I know I have fallen into that before too. For example, a HV pump will suck your stock pan dry, I didn't believe it till I did it on a LT1 engine build up.
Anyway thats not my point or my question.
Why is it on LS engines that it's possible to change rod bolts without taking them out of the engine and having a machine shop do it? Which leads me to my next question.
Why do you only take one bolt out at a time? Is it because the rods are "broke" and they are not smooth like Gen I rods?
If you take the rod cap off, you must then take them to the machine shop and have them checked? If thats the case, then what happens when you take them apart to install them in the engine? If you have to do it once, why not the second time?
Thanks for any info on this topic. I think I am going to put rod bolts and an oil pump in my Firehawk as a precaution since these two things seem to be the death of these engines. LS engines are suppose are a great engine, and GM couldn't get these two things right.
Anyway thats not my point or my question.
Why is it on LS engines that it's possible to change rod bolts without taking them out of the engine and having a machine shop do it? Which leads me to my next question.
Why do you only take one bolt out at a time? Is it because the rods are "broke" and they are not smooth like Gen I rods?
If you take the rod cap off, you must then take them to the machine shop and have them checked? If thats the case, then what happens when you take them apart to install them in the engine? If you have to do it once, why not the second time?
Thanks for any info on this topic. I think I am going to put rod bolts and an oil pump in my Firehawk as a precaution since these two things seem to be the death of these engines. LS engines are suppose are a great engine, and GM couldn't get these two things right.
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
#51
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
WOW!
Amazing how the rod of the LS1 rod looks so much like that of the late powdered Chevy two dot rod found in the G2 LT1/LT4.
I like how the bolts thread into the rods like that! VERY SMART and much better! In the days of old you would have needed your rod reconditioned to replace the knureled press type rod bolts of old. But with that new set up you can get away with it. Thats a real slick idea by GM.
How long is an LS1 rod? Also what is the size of your connecting rod journal? Are the rods still 5.7 inches with a 2.100 inch journal?
Amazing how the rod of the LS1 rod looks so much like that of the late powdered Chevy two dot rod found in the G2 LT1/LT4.
I like how the bolts thread into the rods like that! VERY SMART and much better! In the days of old you would have needed your rod reconditioned to replace the knureled press type rod bolts of old. But with that new set up you can get away with it. Thats a real slick idea by GM.
How long is an LS1 rod? Also what is the size of your connecting rod journal? Are the rods still 5.7 inches with a 2.100 inch journal?
Last edited by Checkmate007; 02-15-2008 at 05:32 AM.