395 Stroker!
You have to clearance the block at the bottom where the rods will come in contact with it. 395 stroker kits will consist of new crank and rods as well as pistons. You will need better flowing heads.
I'm no help here, but I'm also interested to see what other would have to say about a 395/396 LS1. There doesn't seem to be many around.
Is it safe to clearance the block for the 4.125 crank and rods? Does the oil pan need to be clearanced? Any other issues?
Is it safe to clearance the block for the 4.125 crank and rods? Does the oil pan need to be clearanced? Any other issues?
There are several guys on here that have. A lot of people are not for the 4.125 stroke because the stroke is longer than the bore diameter, most tend to favor the larger bore, shorter stroke. Some people also say the longer stroke runs into the thinner part of the sleeve and yet others say that due to the location of the oil ring there are also issues.
It doesn't take much to clearance the block. I did mine with a simple air die grinder. Nothing needs to be done to the oil pan, but the windage tray does have to be shimmed with washers.
It doesn't take much to clearance the block. I did mine with a simple air die grinder. Nothing needs to be done to the oil pan, but the windage tray does have to be shimmed with washers.
There are several guys on here that have. A lot of people are not for the 4.125 stroke because the stroke is longer than the bore diameter, most tend to favor the larger bore, shorter stroke. Some people also say the longer stroke runs into the thinner part of the sleeve and yet others say that due to the location of the oil ring there are also issues.
It doesn't take much to clearance the block. I did mine with a simple air die grinder. Nothing needs to be done to the oil pan, but the windage tray does have to be shimmed with washers.
It doesn't take much to clearance the block. I did mine with a simple air die grinder. Nothing needs to be done to the oil pan, but the windage tray does have to be shimmed with washers.
I just finished my 396 build yesterday, clearenceing the block is easy, had to grind on the oil pan too where #2 rod bolt touched
I also used 6.250 rods so the rod to piston angle is not as harsh and helps cut down on piston to cylinder wall pressure. but that does make for a shorter compression height
I also used 6.250 rods so the rod to piston angle is not as harsh and helps cut down on piston to cylinder wall pressure. but that does make for a shorter compression height
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so how much would it cost for a local shop do put this bad boy in? Also what kind of performance numbers are we guessing here just looking for some ball park numbers. Also head and cam suggestions for this combo would be much appreciated. Thanks



