Just spoke to ARP on their LS1 head studs. I have been running them for a couple of years but wanted to talk to ARP about re-torque. They advised me that ARP recently updated their torque recommendation from 70 lb-ft to 80 lb-ft.


Anyone else heard of this?

 

LOL, Im glad I torqued mine to 85 even when ARP said 70.

 

Good to know, I will be doing H/C in a week.

 

I never knew what the previous torque specs were but the instructions that came in my box says 80lb-ft with ARP lube, and i believe 85lb-ft with 10-30wt. FWIW, perhaps they changed torque specs on other items as well. Everyone one here seems to say to torque ARP rod bolts to 40lb-ft, but ARP recomends 45lb-ft with ARP lube.

 

As critical as the torque spec is, I think it's more critical for guys running big nitrous shots or boost.

So the question for the rest of us now who torqued them to 70ft/lbs as per the instructions, is there any reason to go back and retorque? I can't beleive that I'm going to lift a head because they are only at 70ft/lbs and not 80.

Fact is, they have a much more consistent clamp force than if I had done torque to yeild bolts because I for one don't have a torque angle meter, as most people on here don't either.

 

I think one reason I posted this is that I have at time gotten inconsistent information from the ARP tech line. I was also told this was a recent change, not sure why they did it either. If someone just purchased them and the instructions state 80 lb-ft, then I guess I have more confidence in the number. I am running at 70 lb-ft right now as well, but I am also planning a head change this spring and actually called them for another reason when I was told of this change.

 

Yes, the instructions do say 80lb-ft on the new instructions. I was just installing them today! There online catalog also lists torque specs as well if you ever need reassurance.

 

I have to pull my heads as I had a gasket leak due to disappearing coolant.. I ordered the ARP stud kit as well thinking it was a better option as I am running a 100 shot now and a 200 shot this season.

Now, question is, after the studs are all in place and the head is on. Do you just go in the tighting order like normal and just torque down to 85lbs and be done?

 

You use the same order, however the torquing still needs to be in three passes. Can't recall the torque values off hand, but I got by the LS1howto on the first two passes and then finish it off with the ARP torque.

 

Can't find this, any pointers? I spoke to them again the other day, they just revised the torque in January after some more lab testing.

 

When I torqued mine, the first pass was to finger tight, then to 50 ft/lbs, then finally to the 70 ft/lbs.

 

Wouldn't you know it, I did the same thing. Was concerned about whether the oil I used for lube was sufficient enough in comparison to the recommended assembly lube, so I made sure to up the torque. Checked them a couple hundred miles later & stayed right there.

 

how about the 5 small head bolts on each side.

 

The 5 small headbolts are like 22ft pounds..way less than the big bolts.And so with ls7 head gaskets and my afr 225s and arp studs I am supposed to do a retorque after a few hundred miles or what? This is not easy obviously as you can't get to the inner bolts without taking off all the rockers? And they are pain in the butt to take off.Those flimsly 8mm can easily get rounded and can't even find a 3/8 inch 8mm have to use 3/8 to 1/4 inch and thats evey worse.
So take mine to 80 but not planning on any retorque.Or do you guys take off your rockers to do it?

 

here is the question i need answered, if it is 80ft/lb on the regular arp studs, what would be the recomended torque for a set of arp L-19 studs being used in an iron block w/ trickflow 235s, i would think it to be 100ft/lb or possibly more.

 

I would call ARP, but the torque is based off of the stud diameter and not the block material. Call them and verify.

 

I plan to re-torque but I am running YT's and they don't require removal.

 

the L-19s are the same diameter as a regular arp stud but they are stronger than a 1/2'' arp stud which is why they are $550/set and must be ordered from arp vs. off the shelf arp's for $230/set, and from what i've been told if you try to go 100 ft/lb or more with alum. block it will actually pull the threads out of the block, so in my case it does matter what the block is made of and torque isnt based on diameter, i think they should go to 100# but i probably will check w/ arp for sure. . . . . . thanks for the advice, but this question would probably more for those making close to 1000 rwhp or more

 

A bit confused..Ok so the new spec is 80 not sure if have that in my box seemed to just have the smaller studs on there instructions?

But I have an iron block so should or shouldn't torque these to 85 ,5 extra for the iron block?

Also is that oil on them that they come shipped with.. so just put the moly on top of the oil?And what about the inner 5.Should I put sealer or blue loctite on them just in case?
And if put blue loctite do I put then how do I put the arp lube on them too?This is so confusing.

 

See below.