Block might be cracked?
Block might be cracked? Ok so I had the car sent to the shop to fix an oil pan leak, rack and pinion and motor mounts. I go by to check on it and I notice a small hairline crack on the passenger side next to where the starter would be. Does this mean I have to replace the motor? Does it mean I can't get on it? Should I just do a replacement block from SDCP? I have a new baby on the way and this is not how I wanted to spend my savings. This is my daily driver. Advise please. Thank-you.
Did you do the work on the motor? I see the 243 heads. My guess would be the crack is by the bolt holes and you had some water in the hole when the bolts were torqued down. If you did not just do the heads and have put some miles on it since then, hey it might be alright. Did you snap a pic? It is hard to descibe what is going on without seeing where it is.
Need more info. The blocks can be welded. You would probally have to pull it out of the car to be worked on. Is the crack on the side of the block or where the starter bolts at?
There's no oil seeping through the what looks to be a crack. Nor is there any shiney metal indicating a crack. It's 2 inches above the oil pan and right next to the starter. You'd have to pull the starter off to see it behind the starter. Right in the middle about 3/4 of an inch long. There's no oil in my radiator or coolant found on the oil pan when pulled off. I had the oil pressure switch replaced and another sensor by the starter or so the mechanic stated? Plus of course the rack and pinion and motor mounts with stock ones. I called around and my three sources said they didn't think it was. That it might just be something from the factory from when it was made. I'm the one that pin pointed it out to them when I dropped by to see it and it still hadn't been cleaned. It wasn't dirty nor did it have oil resedue on it or near it. Could this happen to a motor I don't spray or drive too high into the RPMs? It was finished today and hope to pick it up tomorrow morning. I'm sort of uneasy with it now. Like its handicapped. ( no offense) What do you think? I didn't think of taking a picture at the time with the phone. I should of, damn. Now its gonna bugg me til my next oil change when I'm under there. Your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
also we are talking about aluminum... when I did the heads and cam on my car i would see little lines that looked like cracks on stuff like my oil pan, valley cover, valve covers and other stuff. I didnt worry about it, they where just lines in the casting. it could just be that.
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Verdad Gallardo also we are talking about aluminum... when I did the heads and cam on my car i would see little lines that looked like cracks on stuff like my oil pan, valley cover, valve covers and other stuff. I didnt worry about it, they where just lines in the casting. it could just be that.
Well, the heads went on last March with 150,000 miles on it. They actually pulled the oil pan off to clean it and they said nothing looked out of the ordinary. Should I go to a thinker weight oil. I currently use 0W30 Synthec. If so which would you all recommend? Should I keep using synthetic or go to a conventional? All gaskets should have been replaced by now. Top and bottom and rear main when they did the clutch at 130,000 miles. Car now has 177,000 miles. Thanks for you advise.
Last edited by Medic/Z28; Feb 27, 2008 at 12:45 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: South Jersey
also we are talking about aluminum... when I did the heads and cam on my car i would see little lines that looked like cracks on stuff like my oil pan, valley cover, valve covers and other stuff. I didnt worry about it, they where just lines in the casting. it could just be that.
Well drove it for about 200 miles now everything seems good. Hopefully we're right its just cast molding. I want to do the truck MAF and re-tune it; just waiting on the pigtail and see what happens til then. Need to schedule an appointment on a day with low humidity.
