blu1

So I had Pat G spec me a custom cam for more low end but still as large as I could fit without flycutting. He came back with a 232/238 .612/.607 111+1lsa on xfi lobes.

The cam came 230/236 .613/.608 111.0

Why was it cut so much smaller than the original spec? I know they have some tolerance ratio but is it really that much?

Any help is appreciated.

Matt

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If it's really that much smaller, it is cut wrong. You need to talk to the vendor/manufacturer about it.

blu1

DO you happen to know comps tolerances? I know its a little bit, but for the cam to be this much smaller something had to have been entered wrong.

Gannet

That's with XFI lobes, right? They aren't actually available in 232/238. The sizes jump from 230 to 236 (intake) and 236 to 242 (exhaust). He gave me a spec for an XFI "232/238" as well as an alternate. When I questioned him on it he replied that the 230/236 XFI grinds spec out closer to 232/238 when delivered, so he uses those numbers for the computations. It sounds to me like you got the right cam.

blu1

hmm well this kind of sucks then, mine nowhere near spec'd out to 232/238 like I was anticipating. Its almost like hitting the dyno expecting 450 and walking away with 400.

I was planning to swap this from my MS3 for a little more low end torque but it seems Im going to sacrifice a lot of high end from installing a much smaller cam. I could be wrong and wouldn't surprise me, just seems like a huge jump. a 232/238 is pretty close to an g5x2 spec but a 230/236 just sounds so small.

Gannet

What does "sounds" have to do with it? Did you get a Cam Doctor on it? If so, what does it say?

john563

iTrader: (17)

Funny I had him spec me a cam,For the same purpose as you.So he specs me 230/236 6xx/60x 111+2. I get the cam and its actually specs are 232/238 612/606 111lsa. I did not mind at all.I just made sure it will clear is all. Mine are on XfI lobes as well. I have it in right now,but since it was at the shop my tuner and I decided to to switch my 98 pcm for a 99 then we will tune it. I cant wait!!

blu1

Sounds was just an expression meaning a jump from 232/238 to a 230/236 seems like quite a bit.

Pat G speced it and MPH got it cut for me. I posted the exact specs from the cam card.

blu1

Imagine that...

Gannet

When you say "actual specs" do you mean from the cam card or from a Cam Doctor report?

blu1

the cam card that was shipped inside the cam box. Where do I find this cam doctor report or are you meaning Pat G's cam spec sheet he sent me?

john563

iTrader: (17)

it was on the cam card. I did not really look at the doctor report. I will when I get the car back(report is with car).

To the op
I had Thunderracing do the cam,and their cams come with doc reports

Gannet

A Cam Doctor is a machine that is used to measure the actual cam. It produces a very accurate report of what the real cam in your hands is, as opposed to the "spec". If you had ordered your cam through Thunder Racing they would have run a Cam Doctor on it and sent it along with the cam.

Here is what is happening, so far as I can tell: Comp calls the lobes that were used on your cam (3016 and 3037) 230 and 236 @.050. That's what's in their lobe catalog, so it follows that is what would be on the cam card. PatG says, if I understand him correctly (and I don't want to put words in his mouth), that if you order one of those cams and check it on a Cam Doctor what you get is REALLY a 232/238 cam, regardless of what the catalog or the cam card says. To further confuse matters , PatG refers to these lobes in conversation as 232/238 lobes, but Comp calls them 230/236 lobes. Who knows the truth? The Cam Doctor knows!

Point is, I think what you have in your hands is, in fact, a 232/238 cam, regardless of what Comp says or your cam card says. Yes, it's very similar to a G5X3 just with 2 less degrees of exhaust split, more overlap, and less advance. Sounds like a great cam!

Only way to find out for sure is to get a Cam Doctor run. A few shops have them, but they are not common. Thunder will run one for $25, I believe.

blu1

well now I guess I need to get a Cam Doctor run so I will know for sure. I want wanting to run the most optimized setup possible and if this cam is smaller than expected I'd like to squeeze a cometic .040 if it will still clear without flycutting.

I will say also the valve timing open @ .050 is one point lower than it is on Pat G's spec for all the categories.

MPHmotorsports

iTrader: (18)

There is a very small difference between the 232/238 and the 230/236.
I understand what Pat G was saying. The XFI and LSK lobes grind on the high side often and when a cam spec comes in at 230 it normally runs on the high side and grinds out to be like a 231.4 and the 236 might wind up being a 237.5.
The grind numbers call for a 230/236 but from experience Pat knows that comp grinds a bit high and assumed 232/238 would be closer.
Regardless the difference will be minor if there is any difference at all.
I say stick it in and you should enjoy it, as it will still do what your goals were set for.

blu1

is there any way I can get a cam doctor report for the cam sent to me? Its odd that everything on mine is even.

JS

iTrader: (4)

Correct the XFI lobes are equivalent +2 degree to a XER lobe
Meaning a 230 XFI is more like a 232 XER,U have to look at dur. at .006/.200

1989GTA

I agree with the above replys. I had bought a XFI 268 cam from Summit Racing and decided to have it put on a cam doctor over at Chet Herbert cams. The advertised specs @ .050" are 218/224. The cam doctor came back 220.7/225.6

So the bottom line is Patrick is probably right on the money. Even if it was off one degree one way or the other I don't think it would make much difference on the performance. Just make sure you properly degree the cam when installing it. If you don't you are probably affecting the horsepower a lot more than one degree of duration.

blu1

well I might see if I can find some place local to Charlotte than has a cam doctor. If it is smaller than anticipated I'd like to run a .040 cometic.

Old SStroker

blu1, install the cam properly and run the car. Does it do what you expected? Are you happy with the performance? If yes, and yes, forget the cam numbers and enjoy the power.

IOW, buy a cam for what it does, not for the numbers. There is something to be said for not getting a cam card with a "custom", but rather just which ICL to install it.