talked to geoff at thunder, he said he would exchange my TRex for a TRak cam. I was thankful for the exchange since the TRex wouldn"t fit. Now I see on here that I need 7.450 push rods unstead of the 7.400 that I have and I need 921 springs instead of the patriot extremes i have and alot of shims to get the coil bind clearance. C an it be any harder to get a cam to work in a car!?!?!?

 

keep in mind the difference in those cams, and the trex is quite a large cam which of course requires the different parts. itll all be good once u get the new cam in and u mash that throttle!!

 

can someone tell me exactly what i need so i can call thunder tomorrow or will what i have work. I not exactly easy on the car. I leave wot and never look back!!

 

I don't see why you can't use the extreme duals with the TRak cam. It's not any more aggressive than the MS4 or Torquer V3 and most of those are running with the PRC Duals, which are the same springs as the Patriots. As far as shimming is concerned it wouldn't be a bad idea to do that with any spring you choose, but probably 90% of us don't. The best thing to do for pushrods is to measure with an adjustable pushrod length checker to see what you really need(7.45 sounds long to me).

 

Keep the Patriot Extreme Duals! Also, I use 7.45 per Patrick's recommendation.

 

7.450 length will just make the valvetrain less noisey... Should still work just fine... And as a bonus it won't sound like a sewing machine!!!

 

I have 7.45 in my GTO

 

Not to dove bomb the thread, but I was under the impression that the T-Rex would work with stock heads and components. It wouldnt be optimised, but it would work.

 

Yeah it works but doesnt have **** for piston to valve clearances. Theres a difference between works and works with proper safe clearances. Seems as though common knowledge in the LS1 world now is as long as the valve doesnt smash into the piston it is 100% good to go. Thats a very naive idea. I personally would not feel very secure knowing that my spark plug gap is larger than the distance between my piston and valve when im spining 7k+ rpm's.

Anyone running these big cams (MS3, MS4, trex, etc...) should really be flycutting their piston tops to ensure they have safe clearances, yet most people are too lazy to do this crucial step.

 

^ Agreed 100%. One misshift or bounce on the rev limiter and it could be over.

 

I thought the Trex was designed for cam only applications?

 

It is. The fact that it's so freakishly large it decreases your piston to valve clearance.

 

If I am not ready to do piston work, what is the maximum safe clearance to use on a stock motor? Or better, the maximum cam lift on a stock motor?

 

Lift does not determine piston to valeve clearance alone, its a combination of both duration and lift. The point where piston to valve clearance is the closest is at the low lift side of the cam lobe anyway, not where max lift occurs..

 

The TRak is .649 lift on the intake side, right? I would go with the Extreme golds, .660 lift rating, versus the Extreme .650 rating. Maybe I'm wrong...?

-J

 

Rule of thumb is minimum clearance should be .80