DWZ28

I just dont see how colder water temp would cause incomplete combustion
I could see how it could run lean but the MAf sensor should make up for any change in air temp to correct the AF ratio

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Well this might be a long shot but, I had this problem recently...

I had a blown head gasket and coolant was getting into the motor, causing the temps on the motor to be extremely low... Just an idea you might wanna check

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

if the head gasket was blown wouldnt i be getting smoke? Or the exhaust smell like coolant? if it was getting into the motor?

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Ya, sounds like you don't have that problem though right? You also might have coolant leaking down the side of the block..

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

When i open the hood everynow and then there is a hint of coolant smell. But im also getting some hesitation under acceleration accept for wot gonna to check plugs, wires, maf, and more than likely replace a fuel filter tommorrow

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

Checking the plugs is a very good idea, when I pulled mine a couple were wet...

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

well this doesnt have anything to do with the cooling but today when i pulled the maf it some alot of the metal was chipped looked like someone took a hammer and chisel and beat the crap out of it so looks like im going to be replacing it too =\

PSU 98

iTrader: (4)

The engine is set to run at a certain temp so that fuel vaporizes properly during combustion. An engine that is "too cold" will see fuel condensation. This is (one reason) why my Jeep is so hard to start on a winter morning; or why my old motorcycle had a "choke" lever. Also keep in mind that oil temps are dependent upon engine temps; so a "too cold" engine sees oil viscosity and pressure changes. Engines that are "too cold" will have poor emissions as well.
Now the "dummy" temp gauge we're given is far from accurate. Is running 160 or 175* going to destroy your engine? I doubt it. Is it optimal? Probably not. You likely will not notice any change in drivability, but I am of the (minority) opinion that GM engineers do occasionally know what they're doing.

DWZ28

thanks for clearing that up

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

just because your gauge says that doesnt mean thats where its at. stock temp gauges are JUNK. also, im assuming from the posts in these threads, that no one is taking into account that 98's had different temp gauge operation. they dont just go straight to 210 and stay there. they depict actual temp changes. my 98 runs at about the first hash mark, and when im sitting in traffic, it runs to 210 then the fans kick on and it comes back down.

to the OP, my guess this is your first 98 F-body. check to see where your temp gauge is, if its not going past the 1st hash mark, your fine. if its below it, you may have a lower t-stat or one that is stuck open.

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

I apologize if I didn't see it but put an auto tap or a scanner on your car and get the actual reading off the pcm. Your gauge can be off. The 98's had the only somewhat accurate gauges and even mine still reads about 15 degrees colder than what the computer sees. Do this before you keep on guessing...

1Loudz28

iTrader: (47)

+1 on more accurate temp gauges on 98s. my 98z runs just under the first mark, then when sitting in traffic will rise up to just over the mark, my fans will turn on and the temp will drop again.

also have a stock 186* thermo in.

TT632

iTrader: (3)

Check the gauge and the sending unit, with one from a local auto parts store. If you have a coolant leak you would be watching the level go down with time.

If those check out and your performance or gas mileage isn't suffering, I would view it as a non-issue.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

^^^^^^^ yep, normal.

Stock thermo is 195 though.

Stock setup turns the fans on at 212* or when you turn the a/c on. Shuts bac down about 185* I have watched this on a Tech II.

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

well i checked it today im pretty sure the fans are coming on as soon as it starts so either they programmed it to do that or the relay went out and they rigged it straight to the battery to come on as soon as the car starts. I got my "chugging/rattle" sound taken care of the egr check valve had gotten so full of carbon deposits or w/e u wanna say it blew in half was PITA but fixed it and sounds perfect now.

99redzed

I know you probably dont ahve to worry about a headgasket, but if you wanna know if you have coolant leaking into your oil. just check your oil lever dipstick. if the oil is above the full mark, u better drain some oil and get a sample tested

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

thanks but the coolant level is fine i replaced the radiator cap today and couldnt smell any afterwards so im thinking it had just gotten old or loose etc...

Puppet_Master

What's bad about having a car that runs cool? Isn't that a good thing, I guess I'm not quite sure why people are addressing this like it's a problem. People usually try to make sure the air going into the cylinder is as cold as possible, so I'm not sure why the motor running too cool would cause 'incomplete combustion'.

1998LS1SS

iTrader: (8)

An engine running cool is good and bad...power is generated from heat...the higher the heat in the combustion the more power generated...but...engines can only take so much heat before its harmful...you want cold air going in so you can squeeze more in but you want a hot combustion to increase the pressure in the cylinder walls and burn all the air/fuel...if your car is running cold, it shouldnt be much of a problem especially in warm climate areas...mine never reaches 210 and hovers around 180 all the time.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

I had a bad Water Temp Sensor on my 98. It was about $20 at the dealership. Be sure you tell them its a 98 because we have the 3 pin not the 2 pin unit. It acted just like yours and we found it using a Tech 2 handheld. It thought it was 35 degrees outside in 98 degree weather and was running pig rich.