How to advance cam timing on a Rollmaster?
How to advance cam timing on a Rollmaster? If I want to advance the timing on a double row Rollmaster do I rotate the crank and leave the dot on the cam sprocket at 6 oclock? The instructions with the Rollmaster are unclear about this. It sounds like you rotate the crank sprocket according to the instructions, but I figure if I just rotate the crank sprocket the relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft does NOT change, only the position of the crank sprocket on the crankshaft.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Texas and Qatar
Re: How to advance cam timing on a Rollmaster? Ed, the crankshaft sprocket is only marked for 0 advance. When you advance the cam with the adj chain, you need to make a new alignment mark set to actual TDC for #1 cylinder. I'll send you a picture of one thats advanced 2 degrees if I can find it. 
Re: How to advance cam timing on a Rollmaster? Before you take your factory gear off set the alignment marks (cam) to zero. This would position the new timing chain gears for zero advance via their corresponding marks for zero advance. To advance use the grooves that are counter clockwise to the zero groove. With the advance groove you desire, in your case the first groove counter clockwise to the zero groove, use the same spacing that is between zero groove mark and the mark on the tooth. Use this same distance or number of teeth and put a mark at that spacing on the tooth. Should be about three teeth. A marking pen will do the job. Install the gear on the crank in the keyway in the groove that you wish to advance. You will see that you have to rotate the crank just slightly for the marks to align now.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Bring it........ b*tch
Originally Posted by -Joseph-
Ed, the crankshaft sprocket is only marked for 0 advance. When you advance the cam with the adj chain, you need to make a new alignment mark set to actual TDC for #1 cylinder. I'll send you a picture of one thats advanced 2 degrees if I can find it.
Sorry to dredge this up from the dead AGAIN, BUT Rollmaster needs to pull their heads out.........................
Here is what I came up with, I had removed the cam, and crank gears so I am shooting blind. I set the Roll(crap)master crank gear on the desk, (had a Beer) and thought about it. I marked the TDC tooth and the straight up keyway in the gear, I then rotated the gear one keyway clockwise, as to line up the 2* advanced position, the mark I had made marking the TDC tooth now showed me wich tooth to mark and use to line up the cam gear dot to.
Clear as mud?
Man I hope my Leines induced thinking is going to allow this "Ellis Juan" to run again..........
Here is what I came up with, I had removed the cam, and crank gears so I am shooting blind. I set the Roll(crap)master crank gear on the desk, (had a Beer) and thought about it. I marked the TDC tooth and the straight up keyway in the gear, I then rotated the gear one keyway clockwise, as to line up the 2* advanced position, the mark I had made marking the TDC tooth now showed me wich tooth to mark and use to line up the cam gear dot to.
Clear as mud?
Man I hope my Leines induced thinking is going to allow this "Ellis Juan" to run again..........
Last edited by Carnutz; Nov 15, 2005 at 09:30 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 35
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From: Ashburn, VA
Damn I went rummaging through the garage to find the instructions from my rollmaster. I went through this two years ago. It was something in the wording of the instructions that through me off, like there should have been a comma that wasn't. Can't find them damnit! Of course, I tripped over several other things I had been looking for while I was,d'oh! I made all my notes on those things too, dang.
You do have to adjust by rotating the crank gear, thats why it is keyed. Just remember that 2deg on the crank does not equal 2 deg on the cam, not exactly anyway. I cam in at like 105 and change when dot-dot, and needed 108-IC. I am very sure that I RETARDED the crank gear two degrees and ended up at 108.5 IC, and declared victory!
If you post the wording of the instructions, email me, I'm sure I can point out where the confusion is. The timing set itself is great, the spacers for the oil pump worked out just right, everything lined up, and I didn't have to machine my UD pulley like a lot of people thought I might. I do painfully remember how bad the instructions were though! Which is why these forums are a damn necessity, heh.
Good Luck!:thumbs:
You do have to adjust by rotating the crank gear, thats why it is keyed. Just remember that 2deg on the crank does not equal 2 deg on the cam, not exactly anyway. I cam in at like 105 and change when dot-dot, and needed 108-IC. I am very sure that I RETARDED the crank gear two degrees and ended up at 108.5 IC, and declared victory!
If you post the wording of the instructions, email me, I'm sure I can point out where the confusion is. The timing set itself is great, the spacers for the oil pump worked out just right, everything lined up, and I didn't have to machine my UD pulley like a lot of people thought I might. I do painfully remember how bad the instructions were though! Which is why these forums are a damn necessity, heh.
Good Luck!:thumbs:
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i just went through this
i used this page to help me
http://support.summitracing.com/scri...ted=1044552136
i used this page to help me
http://support.summitracing.com/scri...ted=1044552136
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