new motor break in.......
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new motor break in....... whats the skinny? run regular oil and keep it revved up so the rings seat or run good oil and drive it like a sissy? or anything inbetween? what to do......
There is a sticky around here somewhere. This is the summary if I remember correctly.
Most engine shops run conventional oil or a special break in oil that is not as "slippery" as synthetic so that the rings seat in good.
Start it up, check for leaks, check oil pressure etc.
Bring it to operating temp.
Start beating the **** out of it basically.
By that I mean varying the RPM's so that the engine cycles being under a load, and then under vacuum.
I would try and find the sticky if I were you.
First engine oil change is not long after initial startup. ~25 miles
Second is at ~200
Another at ~750.
Then switch to synthetic at ~1500.
EDIT: Found the sticky. https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/672793-engine-break-theory.html
Most engine shops run conventional oil or a special break in oil that is not as "slippery" as synthetic so that the rings seat in good.
Start it up, check for leaks, check oil pressure etc.
Bring it to operating temp.
Start beating the **** out of it basically.
By that I mean varying the RPM's so that the engine cycles being under a load, and then under vacuum.
I would try and find the sticky if I were you.
First engine oil change is not long after initial startup. ~25 miles
Second is at ~200
Another at ~750.
Then switch to synthetic at ~1500.
EDIT: Found the sticky. https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/672793-engine-break-theory.html
Last edited by FMX05; Mar 16, 2008 at 07:15 PM.
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From: in your closet
well aint that a bitch. there really is no set way to do this. kind of pick ur method and run with it.....well ill let u all know what happens in a couple thousand miles 
negative You need to run a NON-DETERGENT oil for about the first 500 miles and baby it. I would recommend a 4k rev. limiter until then. Those rings need to seat properly. ALSO, with that oil, you need an oil change after the first 150, then 300, then 500, then change to your choice of oil. preferably mobil 1synthetic.
If the motor is new and you have a new camshaft, the break in procedure is actually quite important. If not done properly you run a high risk of a cam lobe going flat. Basic idea of the break in procedure is to keep the motor running above idle. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm is typical. The firm rule here is to keep the engine running above 1500 rpm and do not let it idle. If you have a non-electric throttle body (cable operated) you can zip tie the throttle body open at the right RPM, or simply keep the gas pedal pressed down some way with a weight/wedged stick. Keep the radiator cap off and once you see steam coming from the radiator (after 5-10 minutes) add water/coolant to the radiator once all the air pockets are burped out of the system. After 20 minutes of higher revs (and not above anything over 2500 either) you can let the engine idle to play with the timing so the motor idles nicely.
And you're done!
And you're done!
If the motor is new and you have a new camshaft, the break in procedure is actually quite important. If not done properly you run a high risk of a cam lobe going flat. Basic idea of the break in procedure is to keep the motor running above idle. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm is typical. The firm rule here is to keep the engine running above 1500 rpm and do not let it idle.
And you're done!
And you're done!
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I used generic 10W30 conventional oil and a K&N filter for break-in. I used that until, hmm, 1000 miles I believe, changing oil at 50,100, 250 and 500 miles increments. Mix in some engine braking with some run it like you stole it. I personally want to know right away if it's going to fall apart rather than find out a few thousand miles down the road.
So what if it's just a cam/spring swap? You shoudl still beat it up? I read you shouldnt reav high at all until springs reach operating temperature?
Cam break in-nothing special.
Springs_- heat cycle at least three times before flailing on it.
Done!
Cam break in-nothing special.
Springs_- heat cycle at least three times before flailing on it.
Done!
what few motor projects i've been part of after initial startup we ofcourse check everything and let it get to temp, vary rpms for a few minutes, shut it off and change the oil and take it for a drive varying rpms and load on the engine,accelerating and decelerating.
After that you can run what you want. I use Amsoil myself, but that is my preference. If you have forged pistons you probaly should continue to add a bottle of the break-in additive which has ZINC in it. Most oils today don't have much if any zinc in them. One that does is Shell RotellaT
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...comp_cams.html
there seems to be mixed reviews from my reading if the extra cleaning agents in diesel oil like Rotella counteracts the added zinc and additives
last I heard the professional opinion was regular gasonline oil but add GM EOS assembly lube additive, it comes in a large bottle from the dealer and you should only use 1/4 or half a bottle
last I heard the professional opinion was regular gasonline oil but add GM EOS assembly lube additive, it comes in a large bottle from the dealer and you should only use 1/4 or half a bottle
The best deisel oil from what i understand and use from the Duramax forums is Mobil 1 Delvac which can be bought from walmart. It's 15w40 though supposed to be really hiogh in zinc i think. Do they pre-break in engines at the factory? I'm sure no one changes their oil the first 100 miles when they buy or anything.
The best deisel oil from what i understand and use from the Duramax forums is Mobil 1 Delvac which can be bought from walmart. It's 15w40 though supposed to be really hiogh in zinc i think. Do they pre-break in engines at the factory? I'm sure no one changes their oil the first 100 miles when they buy or anything.
VW diesel oil is also a very good oil(505.01 spec) for there pump duse engines, 5w30 castrol syntec(right from vw dealer) or quaker state euro diesel ultra, very high in zinc also
these VW's actually come with a tag on the mirror when you buy the car stating that you must use there 505.01 spec oil or engine damage will happen,, and yes people have had the cams go out from using regular oils. the fuel injector runs off of another lobe on the cam and creates major pressure on the cam and lifter
i have been using this oil for years, it works great, and for a 5w30 oil it makes more oil pressure than a standard synthetic 5w30
