98z Rod Bearings
98z Rod Bearings Well guys I've read up on searches and see that conveniently 98's can be a PITA. I have purchased the ms4 and upgraded valvetrain with ls7 lifters already installed and also prc dual springs along with the rest you would expect with a cam swap as shown in my sig (no 150 shot yet though). I've read that the rod bearings are much weaker and I dont want to go through with all the work involved really to replace them. What I'm worried about is do u guys think I will even make it through the tune? The car has 90k miles ls6 intake and everything listed in the sig.
I have a 98 as well with 125k. I pretty much looked at it as a 50/50 shot. You read about the handful of people that spin a rod bearing with in the first 3-4k or so after a cam swap, and you see some that are perfectly fine. I figured I would spend the extra money and replace them and upgrade the rod bolts now while its all apart. This way I won't have to worry about it when I spin it upto 7k. 
I sure as hell would not pull the motor just to replace the rod bearings, that requires complete disassembly of the motor and machine work. Wait unitl they fail and then do a total rebuild with all forged parts and arp fasteners.
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Use a good motor oil and install the katech rod bolts. If it was meant to go, it'll go regardless of if you spin it up to 7k or not. The rod bolts are just insurance against stretching a bolt and having a rod go.
I've been lucky with mine, I've got 15k on it since my cam install and it's still running strong. Annoying tap from the lifters, but other than that it's been great. I spun it to 6500rpm on a regular basis too since I got headers + tune, let alone the cam.
I've been lucky with mine, I've got 15k on it since my cam install and it's still running strong. Annoying tap from the lifters, but other than that it's been great. I spun it to 6500rpm on a regular basis too since I got headers + tune, let alone the cam.
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Yea those rod bolts are a bag of ***. I would replace them now along with rods, and pistons. Because if you do spin a rod bearing, there is a good chance of destroying that crank and then the rod plays so much on the journal it slaps up against the heads and ruins the piston along with it and quite possibly the head itself. IT HAPPENED TO ME...get ARP 2000 rod bolts...money in the bank
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Verdad Gallardo Yea not gonna put that much money in this motor just wanted to know if it would make it past the tune b/c i wont be that hard on it afterwords. Much rather put the money into a new 408 
However I do appreciate your info it is nice to know other possible problems.
However I do appreciate your info it is nice to know other possible problems.
Upcoming mods: Ms4 cam, ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, Asp pulley, PRC dual spring kit, ls7 lifters, new heads. N2o 150 dry shot
Read my first post i put in parenthesis im not running the 150 shot just cam only. Most of those upcoming mods are valvetrain upgrades how is that going to for sure break the bolts? Also not included in that list is the ls6 intake I just put on and the heads are stock 241's because i had floated valves and didnt want to flycut for the ms4.
My mistake about the 150 shot but those rod bolts are just a time bomb...Mine went out cruising down the road @ 30mph on a bone stock motor so its kinda like the case of our rear ends, some last longer than others, some **** pretty soon. Either way, with the installation of that cam and heads you would be around 380+ to the wheels. Depending on how much you beat it will decide i guess
HAHA yes sir kinda seems that way to me too just like the good ol 10 bolts. The car is pretty much full bolt on minus aftermarket heads as long as i make it past the tune, im not really worried b/c i wont be driving it very hard just bugs me to have the cam sittin on my floor ya know? I dont want it to go but if it does i guess 408 here i come.