C2 Cam Input?
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What does everyone think of MTI's C2 cam? Is it a good all around, streetable cam? Anyone have dyno and track numbers with close to the same setup that I do?
What about the C1 cam? How does it compare to the C2 in dyno and track numbers? I heard they are both top end cams.
What does more/less duration and more/less LSA do to performance. I know the less LSA, the less streetable and the more choppy the idle is. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about cams and how all of the numbers/angles alter performance and driveability.
Thanks
Ryan
What about the C1 cam? How does it compare to the C2 in dyno and track numbers? I heard they are both top end cams.
What does more/less duration and more/less LSA do to performance. I know the less LSA, the less streetable and the more choppy the idle is. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about cams and how all of the numbers/angles alter performance and driveability.
Thanks
Ryan
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Ok, my basic knowledge goes like this. Higher duration and more overlap will pull the peak power numbers higher in the RPM band. The lower the LSA, the lower in the band the power will peak. Generally, if you pump up duration, you'll lose low end torque but gain high RPM power. There are other variables to this equation but remember this is a very basic explanation. If you get a lower LSA, the idle will be choppier, yes, but the useable power will come on lower in the band. I have a C1. To say it's not streetable is really cutting it short. It has great low end torque and pulls hard to the limiter. The C2 will make more peak power, but I think the low end torque suffers a bit. Not much, but more than the C1 would. The lifts are a little different, too. The C1 is .566 and the C2 is .581 (I think). How hard to you want to treat your valvetrain? Personally, you'll love either one over stock. If emissions are a concern, stick to the lower duration cams...220-222 tops. Even then you may need tuning. I think my idle's pretty good. The ramps are quick on both which will help idle. I went with the C1 because I didn't want to lift that high. Plus, everything I read said that the lower duration cam would make more low end torque which is what I wanted...to be able to overtake slower cars around town without dropping a gear and have it be as effortless as possible. Mission accomplished. Ask around. There are plenty of knowledgeable folks here who can expand on this information ten-fold.
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What does everyone think of MTI's C2 cam?
For a balanced cam that kicks *** on the strip while having great driving manners it is hard to beat.
Is it a good all around, streetable cam?
...yes, the best that i have tried so far.
Anyone have dyno and track numbers with close to the same setup that I do?
...I dont know your set up but in a street driven H/C set up i ran consistent 10.7's with a few mid 10.6 thrown in there while i used that cam. Dyno numbers were in the 420~430 area.
What about the C1 cam? How does it compare to the C2 in dyno and track numbers? I heard they are both top end cams. ...eh? they are both mid size cams. They make good mid range and will make power until about 6800 in most set ups and up to and beyond 7000 in a free flowing system. Though by that range your taking big chances with your bottom end. 10.8's are very possible with both cams and have been done by more than a few.
What does more/less duration and more/less LSA do to performance. I know the less LSA, the less streetable and the more choppy the idle is.
...yes the more choppy the idle gets and the "peakier" the power is. This also generally moves the power peak lower in the RPM range. Closing the LSA that is. More duration keeps the valves open longer...in general hurting the bottom end and idle while helping top end and increasing over lap.... in general.
Good luck.
For a balanced cam that kicks *** on the strip while having great driving manners it is hard to beat.
Is it a good all around, streetable cam?
...yes, the best that i have tried so far.
Anyone have dyno and track numbers with close to the same setup that I do?
...I dont know your set up but in a street driven H/C set up i ran consistent 10.7's with a few mid 10.6 thrown in there while i used that cam. Dyno numbers were in the 420~430 area.
What about the C1 cam? How does it compare to the C2 in dyno and track numbers? I heard they are both top end cams. ...eh? they are both mid size cams. They make good mid range and will make power until about 6800 in most set ups and up to and beyond 7000 in a free flowing system. Though by that range your taking big chances with your bottom end. 10.8's are very possible with both cams and have been done by more than a few.
What does more/less duration and more/less LSA do to performance. I know the less LSA, the less streetable and the more choppy the idle is.
...yes the more choppy the idle gets and the "peakier" the power is. This also generally moves the power peak lower in the RPM range. Closing the LSA that is. More duration keeps the valves open longer...in general hurting the bottom end and idle while helping top end and increasing over lap.... in general.
Good luck.
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If you want to see a dynograph of the C2 cam with stage 1 heads, go to MTIs website(Over to the right--->).
Click on the Engine section for F-body and go down to the 475hp heads and cam package. They display a dynograph there of the C2 and Stage 1 heads. How do I know? It was my car!
The C2 drives great! It did'nt stall at all, surged occasionally, but it is very streetable. There is some stick shake, but it is not obnoxious. The engine really thumps with this cam in it. In my case, I got a huge amount of torque all across the rpm range that made driving the TA much easier.
You don't have to worry about the sniffer test here in Houston, just whether the computer has set a code. I never set a code while using this cam.
You will love this cam!
Randy
Click on the Engine section for F-body and go down to the 475hp heads and cam package. They display a dynograph there of the C2 and Stage 1 heads. How do I know? It was my car!
The C2 drives great! It did'nt stall at all, surged occasionally, but it is very streetable. There is some stick shake, but it is not obnoxious. The engine really thumps with this cam in it. In my case, I got a huge amount of torque all across the rpm range that made driving the TA much easier.
You don't have to worry about the sniffer test here in Houston, just whether the computer has set a code. I never set a code while using this cam.
You will love this cam!
Randy
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I think these guys covered the question/answer session very well. I personally have the C1 112lc and it is very streetable , yet offers the muscle car choppy idle. With it tuned in now , I should be @ appx 418 RWHP with a best ET of 10.9s in a 3400 lb car. This is an ideal cam for across the band power. I only turn my car to 6400 rpm as it is our daily driver and my wifes' only form of transportation.
Raughammer should know. It's one of his trademark Cams. (Campbell C1 and Campbell C2).
If you want to hear or feel the C1 in the car , drop me a line and we can hook up. I'm located in Pasadena , Tx which isn't far from you.
Good luck!!!
James
Raughammer should know. It's one of his trademark Cams. (Campbell C1 and Campbell C2).
If you want to hear or feel the C1 in the car , drop me a line and we can hook up. I'm located in Pasadena , Tx which isn't far from you.
Good luck!!!
James
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Had some drivablity problems w/o tune. Engine would die when pulling up to stops w/ A/C on. I had a full tune on the dyno w/ edit, and the idle was bumped up by 200rpm. The tune also flushed out 25 or more ponies that were hiding in there.
Lope sounded better w/ the slower idle, but A/C is crucial in Miami! Just a little sidenote, if I would have known a tune was in order, I would have gone w/ the C2.
Lope sounded better w/ the slower idle, but A/C is crucial in Miami! Just a little sidenote, if I would have known a tune was in order, I would have gone w/ the C2.
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I have a Comp Cams 224/224 XE-R cam with a few tweaks that's similar to the C2. It drives great as mentioned above and is pretty tame all in all. I was really surprised, I have a vette with a 350 and a smaller Isky ~220/220 cam on a 108 LSA that's a real handful compared to the bigger 224 XE-R.
When I did heads and cam a 224 was the outer limit of what I considered, after seeing how nice the XE-R is to drive, I think a 226 or 227 would be pretty decent too.
When I did heads and cam a 224 was the outer limit of what I considered, after seeing how nice the XE-R is to drive, I think a 226 or 227 would be pretty decent too.
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i love my C2, and it was perfectly driveable without tuning
in fact i only gained 3 hp from having it tuned (waste of 500 bucks)
in fact i only gained 3 hp from having it tuned (waste of 500 bucks)