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Price to pay for cam+heads+tune?

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Old 03-20-2008, 08:56 PM
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Red face Price to pay for cam+heads+tune?

Anyone have an (ballpark) idea on what i should pay for a cam and heads install plus tune??? I was quoted $2700 just for install plus tune. I would supply the parts of course. I thought $2700 was nuts!! ---thanks guys in advance
Old 03-20-2008, 09:09 PM
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You best bet would be finding a shop that does installs and tune in house, most of the shops here in the Bay Area offer deals when doing everything at once.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:13 PM
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Do it yourself or give a buddy a few bills to help.. I did it for my 1st time am I am glad I did as I learned ALOT... And I have no one to blame if it screws up. Just do some research, and some more research before you start.

Then, just pay the ~500 for an inital tune and your good to go.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:14 PM
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I paid $700 to get my cam and heads installed by a sponsor. I supplied the heads, cam, intake, lifters, oil pump. He got the gaskets, timing chain, and pushrods. I did pay for those parts. $700 was just the labor cost. There were other things that came up that I paid for like an oil pressure sending unit, and getting my exhaust rewelded b/c exhaust works didn't get all the leaks around the collectors (slip on style). It was his winter special though, but his normal rates aren't any higher than $1200 for a full swap. The tune was $400. So I guess install plus tune for me was $1100. Normally $1600. I would have done the install myself, but I didn't have a garage at the time.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:22 PM
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$1500 for install + tune is around what I was quoted. $2700 seems waaaay high to me.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:29 PM
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Yea 2700 is outta the question. I agree with waterbug99 and do it yourself with another buddy and you will learn alot about the guts of your engine. Just do your research and print out some how-to's and get the right tools and you'll be fine. Save you alot of cash for another mod...
Old 03-20-2008, 09:29 PM
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Never looked into someone else doing the swap...I want to do it so that I can fix it when it breaks so im not going to pay someone a rediculous amount. For tune the best I have found is $450 and thats really not bad.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:33 PM
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450 for a good tune is fine

500 for cam only add about 400 for heads. so roughly 1k for a heads cam install is ok
Old 03-20-2008, 11:05 PM
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im about to pay 2,740 for heads ,cam,pushrods,tune and install..and misscelanious gaskets and what not. seeing afr's are 2k alone...im going with patriot stage 2's for 1400 and a nice cam with odds and ends....i thought it was a real good price.....let me know if im wrong...damn
Old 03-21-2008, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 99f1
im about to pay 2,740 for heads ,cam,pushrods,tune and install..and misscelanious gaskets and what not. seeing afr's are 2k alone...im going with patriot stage 2's for 1400 and a nice cam with odds and ends....i thought it was a real good price.....let me know if im wrong...damn
Your price is fine because it includes the parts. In fact after looking twice your price is excellent. The OP was asked to pay $2,700 for just the installation and tuning. He has to buy the heads, cam, rods, bolts, gaskets, ect all seperately.
Old 03-21-2008, 07:20 AM
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I say, instead of paying $500 for a tune, buy a tuning suite and learn how to do it yourself, you'll be well rewarded in the end. It's only slightly more money than having someone else do it, but the daily driving characteristics will be far better. Most places doing a tune will focus on idle quality, and then WOT. Getting everything in between takes time logging data and making changes, but pays huge dividends for part throttle response.

I'm also all for doing the swap yourself. Find a buddy or someone who has done it before and drop them some bucks for helping and their time.
Old 03-21-2008, 07:29 AM
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I paid $1550.00 just for the install and tune..
Old 03-21-2008, 09:23 AM
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I payed 2,300 for cam, Stall,pully, gears and a tune I provided all the parts. I payed because I had the cash, and the comfort of if thier were any problems I could take it to them. I'm a mechanic but I know to have all the right tools and equipment to make the job easy would have coust me more in the end including the time of corse.

But I will never do it agin once I have a gerage and HP tuners.haha
Old 03-21-2008, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I say, instead of paying $500 for a tune, buy a tuning suite and learn how to do it yourself, you'll be well rewarded in the end. It's only slightly more money than having someone else do it, but the daily driving characteristics will be far better. Most places doing a tune will focus on idle quality, and then WOT. Getting everything in between takes time logging data and making changes, but pays huge dividends for part throttle response.

I'm also all for doing the swap yourself. Find a buddy or someone who has done it before and drop them some bucks for helping and their time.
That is what I did. I installed my own cam, etc and bought EFILive and did my own tuning with help from a number of great tuners on LS1Tech and EFILive.com
I still need to install my new Dart heads.

Good luck.
Bill
Old 03-21-2008, 01:41 PM
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Tuning yourself might be ok for bolt ons but I would want my heads and cam tuned on a dyno.
Old 03-22-2008, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by darrensls1
Tuning yourself might be ok for bolt ons but I would want my heads and cam tuned on a dyno.
Having a tuning program and knowing how to use it is way better than any dyno.
Old 03-22-2008, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by darrensls1
Tuning yourself might be ok for bolt ons but I would want my heads and cam tuned on a dyno.
Do you realize that tuning on a dyno typically just involves WOT fueling and spark? They make sure you're not running lean and not getting knock. Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing them, but doing a full tune, whether for heads and cam or simple bolt ons comes down to logging data, making changes, logging more data, and then making more changes. It takes time, lots of it to hit all of the different cells with different variations in temperature and weather conditions.

So unless they have a specific type of dyno that can place a varying load on the car (I know some places do) and then work on the tune that way, you are better having a crack at your own tune, then toss it on the dyno to make sure WOT is good. I agree that it's sometimes tough finding stretches of roadway that is safe and free of traffic and cops to do wot tuning, but most of the midrange tuning should be done on the road during real driving conditions.
Old 03-23-2008, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Do you realize that tuning on a dyno typically just involves WOT fueling and spark? They make sure you're not running lean and not getting knock. Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing them, but doing a full tune, whether for heads and cam or simple bolt ons comes down to logging data, making changes, logging more data, and then making more changes. It takes time, lots of it to hit all of the different cells with different variations in temperature and weather conditions.

So unless they have a specific type of dyno that can place a varying load on the car (I know some places do) and then work on the tune that way, you are better having a crack at your own tune, then toss it on the dyno to make sure WOT is good. I agree that it's sometimes tough finding stretches of roadway that is safe and free of traffic and cops to do wot tuning, but most of the midrange tuning should be done on the road during real driving conditions.
IMO you are better off letting a professional have a crack at your tune. I'm talking shops like New Era Performance, speed ind, TSP, ect. And they all have HP tuners and know how to use it. Oh and they all have a dyno

All I am saying is a professional with HP tuners and a dyno is better then an amateur with just HP tuners.
Old 03-23-2008, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Do you realize that tuning on a dyno typically just involves WOT fueling and spark? They make sure you're not running lean and not getting knock. Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing them, but doing a full tune, whether for heads and cam or simple bolt ons comes down to logging data, making changes, logging more data, and then making more changes. It takes time, lots of it to hit all of the different cells with different variations in temperature and weather conditions.

So unless they have a specific type of dyno that can place a varying load on the car (I know some places do) and then work on the tune that way, you are better having a crack at your own tune, then toss it on the dyno to make sure WOT is good. I agree that it's sometimes tough finding stretches of roadway that is safe and free of traffic and cops to do wot tuning, but most of the midrange tuning should be done on the road during real driving conditions.
My tuner, Howard from Redline Motorsports who is also a sponsor uses a Dyno Dynamics load bearing dyno. He also does street tuning before he even straps the car down for WOT runs. My car runs really good for having a decent size cam with a tight LSA. 233/239 112lsa btw and it has never stalled and fires right up everytime with no issues.
Old 03-23-2008, 08:34 AM
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are you guys taking into consideration the EXTRA parts?
head bolts, gaskets, new timing chain, etc. ?



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