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ARP Head Studs (Which is better?)

Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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Default ARP Head Studs (Which is better?)

Which is better? The standard 6pt. or the 12pt. nut?

I will installing these with the motor in the car.

Also i am procharged with nitrous.

Why do they have a 12pt?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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I went with the 6pt simply because I did not have 12pt deep sockets to put them on with. I don't believe there is any advantage to the 12 pt nuts.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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The 12 pts allow you to put a box end or a socket and with limited travel still tighten it.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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They also give you more contact area to spread the load from the socket.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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I will be installing these this week.

Has anyone installed these on the engine with it still in the car..... in a trans am?
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 02' hawk
I will be installing these this week.

Has anyone installed these on the engine with it still in the car..... in a trans am?
I just installed ARP studs in my SS this weekend. My advice would be to install the M8 studs only, to hold the gasket, then install the M11's after the head is on the block. I put in all of the studs and then found out that the head wouldn't go on because the SLP headders wouldn't move enough to give clearence. I had to remove all the M11 studs then replace them after the head was on. My $.02
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 12:51 PM
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Thanks, so you left the headers bolted to the head?
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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no, I unbolted them and pushed them as far as they would go, twards the wheel wells, and that was enough to get the stock heads off, but not enough to put the new heads on with the addition of the studs.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:14 PM
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I ran into the same problem with some of the lower studs on my Vette as well, header had to be manipulated during head installation and tightening sequence as well.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:21 PM
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Well this is going to be fun............
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 02' hawk
Well this is going to be fun............
Don't be too worried. It wouldn't have took as long if I didn't have to do it over. It's really easy. The most time consuming thing is cleaning the deck and bolt holes, but that must be done with extreme care. Don't be like" aww f*%k it, it's good enough" cause the bolt holes have to be clean for the proper torque readings and the deck can't have gouges or old gasket material on it. I'm not trying to make it sound like an impossible chore, just get a comfortable pad to set on your intake housing and clean away!
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