In process of building, I have a few questions
In process of building, I have a few questions First off I want to make sure my cam is set up right. Here's the picture. I got the two dots lined up perfectly. Is this all that I need to do. Do I need to degree it in at all?
Secondly, how hard should it be to turn the motor over by hand? All of the clearances were great on the rods/mains/cam everything, but when I bolted the heads on and torqued them down it got really hard to turn over by hand. I'm assuming this is because of the high compression now being built in the cylinders, but the spark plugs are out so how much should really be in there? Also, the cylinder rings felt a little tight in the bores when I was going up/down with the pistons. They were file fit and I left .024 on the first ring and 0.026 on the second so I know the clearance is right. I'm guessing it's just because everything is brand new and freshly machined and needs to be broken in a little. I just wanted to make sure nothing is excessively tight.
Secondly, how hard should it be to turn the motor over by hand? All of the clearances were great on the rods/mains/cam everything, but when I bolted the heads on and torqued them down it got really hard to turn over by hand. I'm assuming this is because of the high compression now being built in the cylinders, but the spark plugs are out so how much should really be in there? Also, the cylinder rings felt a little tight in the bores when I was going up/down with the pistons. They were file fit and I left .024 on the first ring and 0.026 on the second so I know the clearance is right. I'm guessing it's just because everything is brand new and freshly machined and needs to be broken in a little. I just wanted to make sure nothing is excessively tight.
Are teh rockers on still? If your pushing against heavy valve springs, itll take some effort, even without building any compression (plugs out). As for degreeing, its never a bad idea, but dot to dot will suffice for most people. Degreeing it in is for perfectionists with adjustable timing gears.
Are teh rockers on still? If your pushing against heavy valve springs, itll take some effort, even without building any compression (plugs out). As for degreeing, its never a bad idea, but dot to dot will suffice for most people. Degreeing it in is for perfectionists with adjustable timing gears.
Yeah, I'm sure on all of my tolerances. I just used white assembly lube. I got my 1/2" Torque wrench out to maybe see if I could get a number on the rolling torque that it takes to turn it over. I set the wrench on the lowest setting that I had which was 25lb/ft and it was less than that by a ways...
I have built 4 ls6 motors in the past year and all still running. I have a digital tourqe wrench that usually show 30ftibs to be the norm. I think your good to go bro. When you get the motor inn leave the plugs out, pull the fuel pump fuse, disconnect the coulpack harness and bump the motor over with the starter. 4 or more 10sec runs before hooking it all back up and firing it.
I have built 4 ls6 motors in the past year and all still running. I have a digital tourqe wrench that usually show 30ftibs to be the norm. I think your good to go bro. When you get the motor inn leave the plugs out, pull the fuel pump fuse, disconnect the coulpack harness and bump the motor over with the starter. 4 or more 10sec runs before hooking it all back up and firing it.
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yes, Im sure thats what he meant. Its standard practice any time youre reassembling the motor after changing the oil pump or lifters. Primes everything up. I usually connect everything and just pull the coil packs and fuel pump fuse.
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Verdad Gallardo Alright, cool. How about the rolling torque though? Does that sound about right? I may be being just a little overly critical but when you've dropped as much time and money as I have recently into building this new motor I think you tend to get that way a little bit lol.