HELP! 383 rods not clearing block
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Yep the Oliver and Lunati Pro Billet style rods have shorter bolts and give you about an extra .100 clearance out on the edge of the rod bolt by design. Depending on the core shift in the block you are building you still have to clearance some every once in a while but not much with those rods. It's super easy anyway.
That may be so now but Callies wasn't even making a LSX crank when I 1st built my stroker 5 years ago. Lunati was the ONLY option and it has served me well.
Great posts guys. I am about to begin assembling my 383 short block this weekend and was searching for clearance #'s and did not know this about the rod bolts. I have a 97 block which blows I think due to the oiling issue in the back of the block, but it's what I had and did not want to buy another block at the time. The rotating assembly is an eagle crank, eagle H beam rods and diamond -2cc pistons. The rotating assembly and block work was done here in Indy by M&M racing engines.
A few questions I have is: Were can I find all the bearing clearance #'s for this rotating assembly? There is nothing in the box with these specs. I have a GM service manual from helm inc, but I'm sure they are different from factory specs. I also have the issue from GMHTP with "my first stroker build" but there is only a few specs and that is a lunati assembly.
Next, is it important to replace that dumbell plastic oil plug on the back of the block if I removed it from another block? I took it out with out damaging it.
And, is there any other down falls of using a 97 block other than the oiling issues of the rear oil gallery's?
I am using ARP main studs and clevite main and rod bearings and a new set of durabond cam bearing are already installed.
A few questions I have is: Were can I find all the bearing clearance #'s for this rotating assembly? There is nothing in the box with these specs. I have a GM service manual from helm inc, but I'm sure they are different from factory specs. I also have the issue from GMHTP with "my first stroker build" but there is only a few specs and that is a lunati assembly.
Next, is it important to replace that dumbell plastic oil plug on the back of the block if I removed it from another block? I took it out with out damaging it.
And, is there any other down falls of using a 97 block other than the oiling issues of the rear oil gallery's?
I am using ARP main studs and clevite main and rod bearings and a new set of durabond cam bearing are already installed.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
i.e. order the kit unpackage the kit, and install directly to a "stock" LS1 ?
plug and play?
well damn thats very interesting indeed!
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I had to notch my 6.0-LS2 block for my 4.100" stroke and 6.125" rods L19 bolts , Mine was hitting pretty bad and took a die grinder and cut for .060" clearance for the rod bolt and had to cut the bottom of the oil pan at the front, were #1 & 2 rods bolt were hitting the pan, and had to shim the windage tray to clearance the counter weight , There is a lot the clearancing a stroker and you must mock up the block before you start assembly if you don't you will haft to make a bunch of tear downs
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
STARTING OFF: THE ENGINE BLOCK
We're not going back on our promise that you can build a stroked LS1 yourself. But the one thing that would be highly impractical to do on your own is engine block machining. The tools required for this cost many thousands of dollars; but luckily they are in the hands of your local engine machine shop.
At the Machine Shop: Machining Processes and Options
Fortunately for late-model enthusiasts, GM designed the Gen III block so well that very little machining has to be done to freshen it up. The days of align honing block mains are virtually a thing of the past, and even decking of these blocks is often unnecessary. Generally, all you'll need to have the shop do is install a new set of cam bearings and perform a cylinder hone.
Cylinder honing is simply a term that refers to the precise removal of material from cylinder walls. This stands in opposition to boring, where a large amount of material is removed rather inaccurately. Honing gets the cylinder to the exact size needed and puts the correct surface finish into the metal of the wall. As mentioned earlier, with the aluminum-block Gen III, only a small amount of material can be removed from the cast iron cylinder liners. Simply put, they can't be bored--only honed.
Although rotating assemblies are available that include stock-size, 3.898-inch bore pistons (which would yield 382 cubes instead of 383), sticking with the stock bore size would be a bad idea on all but the most low-mileage LS1 block. Since cylinder taper and out-of-round were distinct possibilities on our 42,000-mile engine, we decided to have the cylinders honed a full 0.005 to accommodate 3.903-inch pistons. This is the best way to go unless you're starting off with a brand-new, never-used engine block.
The machine shop will measure your pistons and decide the exact size of the hone that needs to be performed based on the specified piston-to-cylinder-wall clearance given by the piston manufacturer. This means you'll have to have your pistons in your hands before taking the block to the machine shop.
We should note that while a so-called "deck plate" should ideally be used during cylinder honing (it bolts to the head surface to simulate bore distortion when the head bolts are tightened), it's not absolutely necessary; GM does not use a deck plate when honing blocks at the factory. If your local shop has done enough LS1s and you've heard good things about them, you should be OK--whether they have one of these deck plates or not. While the cylinder tolerances might not be within the kind of exacting specs Hendrick Motorsports looks for, you're probably not leaving that much on the table for a street/strip motor.
We're not going back on our promise that you can build a stroked LS1 yourself. But the one thing that would be highly impractical to do on your own is engine block machining. The tools required for this cost many thousands of dollars; but luckily they are in the hands of your local engine machine shop.
At the Machine Shop: Machining Processes and Options
Fortunately for late-model enthusiasts, GM designed the Gen III block so well that very little machining has to be done to freshen it up. The days of align honing block mains are virtually a thing of the past, and even decking of these blocks is often unnecessary. Generally, all you'll need to have the shop do is install a new set of cam bearings and perform a cylinder hone.
Cylinder honing is simply a term that refers to the precise removal of material from cylinder walls. This stands in opposition to boring, where a large amount of material is removed rather inaccurately. Honing gets the cylinder to the exact size needed and puts the correct surface finish into the metal of the wall. As mentioned earlier, with the aluminum-block Gen III, only a small amount of material can be removed from the cast iron cylinder liners. Simply put, they can't be bored--only honed.
Although rotating assemblies are available that include stock-size, 3.898-inch bore pistons (which would yield 382 cubes instead of 383), sticking with the stock bore size would be a bad idea on all but the most low-mileage LS1 block. Since cylinder taper and out-of-round were distinct possibilities on our 42,000-mile engine, we decided to have the cylinders honed a full 0.005 to accommodate 3.903-inch pistons. This is the best way to go unless you're starting off with a brand-new, never-used engine block.
The machine shop will measure your pistons and decide the exact size of the hone that needs to be performed based on the specified piston-to-cylinder-wall clearance given by the piston manufacturer. This means you'll have to have your pistons in your hands before taking the block to the machine shop.
We should note that while a so-called "deck plate" should ideally be used during cylinder honing (it bolts to the head surface to simulate bore distortion when the head bolts are tightened), it's not absolutely necessary; GM does not use a deck plate when honing blocks at the factory. If your local shop has done enough LS1s and you've heard good things about them, you should be OK--whether they have one of these deck plates or not. While the cylinder tolerances might not be within the kind of exacting specs Hendrick Motorsports looks for, you're probably not leaving that much on the table for a street/strip motor.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Fl.
A few questions I have is: Were can I find all the bearing clearance #'s for this rotating assembly? There is nothing in the box with these specs. I have a GM service manual from helm inc, but I'm sure they are different from factory specs. I also have the issue from GMHTP with "my first stroker build" but there is only a few specs and that is a lunati assembly.
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Try contacting the manufacturer of your rotaing assembly
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
here is a cool vid of the rod bolt clearencing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvM0-nMnvtY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvM0-nMnvtY
fukinurmom (8 months ago) can I do this with a dremel tool and a stone ?
fiatnutz (8 months ago) It's better if you do this on a milling machine because you can take out the same amount of material from each side. It can be done with a die grinder and carbide burr tool, a dremel tool will take you hours to do what I do in a matter of minutes. Good luck...
John...
John...
How would one .... edit ... nvm ....
Last edited by ferrarit; Jul 9, 2008 at 08:06 PM.
I was planning on using a small angle grinder with a 1 1/2" 24 grit disc on it to remove the aluminum. Maybe I should go buy a aluminum bur with a ball tip for this just in case.
I will try to contact eagle tomorrow for more specs.
I will try to contact eagle tomorrow for more specs.
