what makes a ls1 bottom end weak
What makes them weak? The weakest link in these engines are usually the person building them. I've seen stock internals go 10's and hold over 600hp consistantly. It all depends on the competence of the builder. You can have the strongest parts on the market, but if your clearances are wrong, you might as well keep your tools out; because you'll be rebuilding her real soon.
If you're tearing the motor down anyways, stud the mains/heads, Katech Rod Bolts, Cometic Gaskets, Forged pistons - You'll be fine.
Honestly, I'd be more concerned about you grenading your stock rearend before melting your engine.
If you're tearing the motor down anyways, stud the mains/heads, Katech Rod Bolts, Cometic Gaskets, Forged pistons - You'll be fine.
Honestly, I'd be more concerned about you grenading your stock rearend before melting your engine.
How do you plan on getting to 600-700hp? Nitrous? If so, there's so much that needs to be done, I don't even know where to start to explain.
N2O is different animal altogether...
N2O is different animal altogether...
To be reliable at 700hp you need mainstuds, upgraded rods with ARP or Katech rod bolts, forged Mahle or Diamond pistons along with headstuds vs head bolts. Stock LS1 internals might take 700hp for awhile but be prepared for it to pop anytime.
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stock crank can go for a 1000. i want to do a nice 520ish whp and a 100-150 shoot. can i pull it of and drive it when ever.
Last edited by Cobra Huntter; Mar 31, 2008 at 01:06 AM.
Yea, cranks are fine, they do NOT snap nor really flex due to the strength of the bottom end. its Rod bolts as far as the rpms it gets pushed. Next on the weakness list is springs and pushrods.
Then for the short block the piston and rods are or can be considered worth upgrading. But then again like it was stated the tune and the quality of oil is a big indicating factor.
Then for the short block the piston and rods are or can be considered worth upgrading. But then again like it was stated the tune and the quality of oil is a big indicating factor.
Been running over 700 crank hp for two years on the stock bottom end. Its a nitrous car but I don't use alot of spray, only at the track. So far so good, don't really care if it blows, just gives me a reason to build it right away!
A good matched head and cam combo, all supporting bolt ons, as well as all the must have engine upgrade parts, such as rods, studs through out, cometic head gaskets, forged pistons. Add a 150 hp wet shot, or even a 2 stage system up to 200hp and you should be very close. But let me tell you this watch out for the drive train. Tranny with toast it self, clutch will go, and rear end will also need upgraded. Take it from me I see around 530-550 on the spray, I barely use it, and I still have broken stuff. It is a never ending upgrade process. Blowers are not much better, getting either system tuned to avoid detonation is what will help you the most. Best advise is keep an open mind and more importantly an open wallet.
Tony(Jucin) went 9.50s with stock rods and crank. However I think his rods started to twist and bend after a while. A good rod and piston and you will have no issues at 700+rwhp(Assuming it's tuned right).
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How are you planning to get to 520rwhp before spraying? You're at 420 now according to your other posts, already with a big cam. Are you going FI and dual power adder?
You are gonna want to toss the cast pistons and powdered metal rods all together for 700hp. Not saying it won't last, but a nice forged steel rod and forged aluminum pistons will give you a better margin of safety in case you over rev or have a bad tune.
I have seen the cast piston break a hole right through all three rings in a basically stock engine with a 150 shot. Cheap gas and hot weather, may have been the culprit.
I have seen the cast piston break a hole right through all three rings in a basically stock engine with a 150 shot. Cheap gas and hot weather, may have been the culprit.
