Engine Builders Inside...I have some issues
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On The Tree
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From: Duncanville, Texas
Engine Builders Inside...I have some issues I have a couple of questions......
1. What should the ring gap be for a set of pistons, when I plan on spraying 150-200 frequently, but upto a 300 shot?
The machine shop set the gap at .030 top and .016 second. This seems like an awfully loose top. What do you guys think????? Let me know ASAP.
2. The eagle rods I have are offset on the bottom. I set all the pistons the same way on the rod (this would make the smaller side of the journals face each other). The problem is that on one side the rod is centered on the wrist pin and on the corresponding piston (i.e. 1 and 2) it is a little offset on the wrist pin (not centered). There is nothing contacting the inside of the piston, and nothing is in a bind. Would this be okay....or should I make absolutley sure they are centered?
3. The pistons I had made (custom from Ross) do not come out of the bore. It was my understanding they normally come out of the bore .006-.007. This is going to reduce my compression. So now I have to mill my heads...would this be alright (I have TEA 5.3 Stage 2 milled .010 already), or will there be some consequence??????? To make absolutely sure they are not at zero deck (maybe they do come out) is there a trick where I can measure?????
Please let me know anything you can as soon as possible. If I need to get new rings, etc...I will need to do that tomorrow as it should be completely assembled then. Also if I need to fix the rods I will have to that (while I wait on rings)
D.
1. What should the ring gap be for a set of pistons, when I plan on spraying 150-200 frequently, but upto a 300 shot?
The machine shop set the gap at .030 top and .016 second. This seems like an awfully loose top. What do you guys think????? Let me know ASAP.
2. The eagle rods I have are offset on the bottom. I set all the pistons the same way on the rod (this would make the smaller side of the journals face each other). The problem is that on one side the rod is centered on the wrist pin and on the corresponding piston (i.e. 1 and 2) it is a little offset on the wrist pin (not centered). There is nothing contacting the inside of the piston, and nothing is in a bind. Would this be okay....or should I make absolutley sure they are centered?
3. The pistons I had made (custom from Ross) do not come out of the bore. It was my understanding they normally come out of the bore .006-.007. This is going to reduce my compression. So now I have to mill my heads...would this be alright (I have TEA 5.3 Stage 2 milled .010 already), or will there be some consequence??????? To make absolutely sure they are not at zero deck (maybe they do come out) is there a trick where I can measure?????
Please let me know anything you can as soon as possible. If I need to get new rings, etc...I will need to do that tomorrow as it should be completely assembled then. Also if I need to fix the rods I will have to that (while I wait on rings)
D.
Re: Engine Builders Inside...I have some issues Well,
1. Speed Pro recommendations:
*Top Ring*
Moderate Performance: .004 x bore diameter
Drag Racing & Oval track: .0045 x bore diameter
Nitrous Street: .006 x bore
Nitrous Drag: .008 x bore
Supercharged: .006 x bore
*2nd ring*
Moderate Perf: .003 x bore
Drag & Oval track: .0035 x bore
Nitrous Street: .005 x bore
Nitrous Drag: .0065 x bore
Supercharged: .005 x bore
Keep in mind bore is measured in inches, so 3.898 X .005= .0195"
2. As far as the deck height, you just need to make sure you measure them at Top Dead center, you can figure it out by just looking close as you turn the motor over by hand. What is important is the quench, the distance fromt the top of the piston to the bottom of the flat part of the head. this distance should be .035-.050" You should really be shooting for the middle of that band. So, if you have a zero deck, you need a thinner than stock (.054") head gasket. and it would be best to shoot for .043". You can calculate the net compression ratio through multiple sources on the internet. (one I know of is at Camaroz28.com).
If you have any other questions, just drop me a PM.
Ryan K.
1. Speed Pro recommendations:
*Top Ring*
Moderate Performance: .004 x bore diameter
Drag Racing & Oval track: .0045 x bore diameter
Nitrous Street: .006 x bore
Nitrous Drag: .008 x bore
Supercharged: .006 x bore
*2nd ring*
Moderate Perf: .003 x bore
Drag & Oval track: .0035 x bore
Nitrous Street: .005 x bore
Nitrous Drag: .0065 x bore
Supercharged: .005 x bore
Keep in mind bore is measured in inches, so 3.898 X .005= .0195"
2. As far as the deck height, you just need to make sure you measure them at Top Dead center, you can figure it out by just looking close as you turn the motor over by hand. What is important is the quench, the distance fromt the top of the piston to the bottom of the flat part of the head. this distance should be .035-.050" You should really be shooting for the middle of that band. So, if you have a zero deck, you need a thinner than stock (.054") head gasket. and it would be best to shoot for .043". You can calculate the net compression ratio through multiple sources on the internet. (one I know of is at Camaroz28.com).
If you have any other questions, just drop me a PM.
Ryan K.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Duncanville, Texas
Re: Engine Builders Inside...I have some issues Send me a PM and we can converse. They are not a supporting vendor so it would not be right to post that info.
You can also email
z0sense@comcast.net
You can also email
z0sense@comcast.net
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