Alright guys, please go over my checklist with me and let me know if I'm missing anything for my cam swap.

1. 226/226 112 LSA cam
2. 7.40 hardened pushrods
3. 918 valvesprings
4. LS2 timing chain
5. LS6 ported oil pump
6. New waterpump (mine is leaking a bit, so might as well)

What am I missing here? any gaskets I should replace or will the RTV sealant work?

Thanks,

 

list looks good but i would switch out the 918s for some PRC duals or similar springs....reason being there have been alot of posts on here lately of 918s breaking at low mileage for whatever reason....just a thought....hit up texas speeds site http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=85&catid=36 there and pick up a gasket kit with an ARP bolt and you will be good to go...oh and make sure you pick up all the fluids you will need before you tear the car apart...hope this helps

 

I hear ya on the 918's, but didn't Comp already rectify the problem? I've ran a search and I came across a few posts that stated that they should be fine as long as you don't rev past 6500 often. I hardly ever go past 5500, and I wanted to keep the stock retainers.

What fluids would I need other than the Dextron?

Thanks for your input.

 

BTW.....just noticed your setup......how much are you putting down with your 219/228??

I have a similar setup as yours.....Mac Mids, SLP Lid, CAI, Bellows, Granatelli MAF, No Cats, LMII

 

How about some special tools to make the job easier like a couple of 5/16" metal dowels rods, crane/vinci spring tool(does two at a time to save time) and one of those nifty $40 pusher tools to get the pulley back on. Those 3 tools for under $200 will save a lot of time and pay for themselves in just one cam swap. The second time you use them you're money ahead.

 

Replace timing cover gasket. Advanced auto for like $45 i think it was. This includes you water pump gaskets. Might as well put in a new thermostat too since you're getting a water pump.

Gonna need a 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley, a large breaker bar for the bolt, and a new bolt for retorquing down the crank pulley. (i re-used mine)

What i did for reinstalling my crank pulley was put it in the oven at 250* for about 40 minutes. it slide on half way by hand (well oven mit), then i tapped it on with a 2x4 and hammer about 7/8 of the way and used the old bolt to tighten down the pulley all of the way, no problems. People say it can screw with the harmonics of it by melting the rubber. I touched the rubber of it and it wasnt even tacky at *250. I left the pulley facing upward in the oven when i did it just incase the rubber did melt though.

You'll also need oil, use some cheap dino oil as you'll be changing it again after a couple heat cycles (atleast i am for peace of mind).

torque wrench too

THREADLOCKER. Get the red kind. This goes on the cam bolts, and cam retainter plate bolts. I forgot to do this. Apparently is very important because the bolts will back out.

 

I would buy a gasket kit from one of the sponsors and maybe a new crank bolt.

 

ALL YOU NEED: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

Thanks everyone.