lcars

Those parts may have been bad. However, the car only has 32000 miles on it. Them using this trial and error method to fix my car is unacceptable. They should have checked the sensors the first time I brought it in as I would think it should be something rather easy to check and you should eliminate the easiest things first instead of pulling a valve cover to check pushrods that I had just replaced a few days earlier. I am planning on calling and speaking to the head honcho there within the hour. I already tried once but he wasn't in. If they don't intend to do anything for me I will be contacting a lawyer. Regardless thought I need to have the car fixed and am planning on taking it to the place i mentioned in my previous post.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

^ I seriously doubt you will get any money back. They can just say those parts were not operating correctly and say it could have easily caused your engine problems. Trust me I've been there before. That's why my car will never go back to a dealership or anyone else than www.LSXtuning.net. Find someone you trust and can build a relationship with. Learn to do as much work as you can yourself and get others to help you do it. I've gone from having no idea on how to work on car to completely ripping my 93 apart and putting it back together.

lcars

However, if those parts were not operating correctly and it could have easily caused my engine problems then why is the same exact problem still there after they replaced those parts? They are treating the symptom not the problem. So Update: I spoke with the service manager and he told me to take it to who I want and have them diagnose the issue. After that they said they would take everything into consideration. I have a feeling I will be getting at least some of my money back. I am willing to pay for the parts they replaced and for the commission for the technician that worked on the car as he spent time on it but I refuse to have them profit from not fixing something right the first, second, or third time I brought it to them.

lcars

Update: After taking it to a respected LS1 guy around town here he told me most likely is a bent valve and the heads would have to be pulled to verify. I already assumed this was the case when I first brought it to the dealership and told them so the first time I brought it in. Now I have a couple of questions. What are the chances that the head may have gotten cracked? What are the chances that the hole the Valve goes through in the head (forget what its called) may have been damaged? What are the chances of major piston damage? I assume that since the valve hit the piston there might be some marks left on it but is that something serious or not?
I am going to call the dealership this afternoon and tell them what I thought all along looks to be the problem and see what they are willing to do to compensate me.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

odds are you will just have to replace some valves and take the high spots out of the piston where it hit. I bent mine at the track while spraying a 150 shot, I replaced 2 pushrods and all the intake valves for safteys sake. Ran great after that and sprayed the hell outa it, now i got a 402 to beat up on.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

just hit the witness marks with fine sand paper in your hand, not power sander. clean cyl. really good, reoiil the piston/cylinder. replace any valve that has a witness mark in the piston top, and with the new valve in the head, make sure its not leaking around the valve seat by filling the port with colored water and making sure it doesnt leak around the valve seat. if it leaks, you will either need a new valve job, or a new seat installed, then valve job on that seat. pretty unlikely that you messed up the valve seat or GUIDE. thats the part the valve pass's through. a leak down testwould also be a good idea before you pull the heads to tell you what cyl. to look at for problems.

lcars

Update: Spoke with dealership again and they are saying that because I have a SLP MAF that is causing the car to run rich at idle and in turn making the SES light come on. My question is that if it is making it do that wouldn't it be a different code besides P0300 or the P0307? Again the SES light only seems to come on when the car is idling. Everytime the dealership resets it I drive it home and let it idle and thats when it comes on. I also have had the SES light go off while I am driving it at highway speeds 55-70 mph. Then I park the car and let it idle and it comes back on? I still have the stock MAF so I was going to throw it on there and get a new air filter to see if it clears it up. Anyone have any suggestions or insight as to whether this could be the problem?

yyz28

iTrader: (3)

an untuned aftermarket MAF can cause codes to be thrown, but I don't think that is your core problem. I still think bent valve is at the center of your problems.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

see if you can get ahold of a borescope, if you cant do a leakdown test, you might be able to see the marks in the pistons. Then you would know for sure

69GMC/99LS1

You've been running the SLP maf for quite awhile right, and it didn't throw codes before you over-revved it, right? So you can probably scratch that.

lcars

I replaced the MAF on Friday and drove the car all weekend and the SES light hasn't come back on. Am I ok or should I still have the heads pulled to check things out???