Re-sleeved LS1 Block problems
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From: Richmond Hill, GA
Re-sleeved LS1 Block problems I have a LS1 block that was re-sleeved. The problem it has it that is steams coolant into the crankcase when running. I know that the sleeves were installed by boring out the block, freezing the sleeves, and pressing them in with glue. It was done in Germany. The machinist used Volvo diesel engine sleeves for it. They are bored to 4.125. It has always steamed since the first time running. I was told to use Moroso engine seal because it was a common problem on the resleeved blocks. Has anyone ever experienced or heard of this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it?
sleeve sealing We use orings to seal the MID sleeves to the block to eliminate any chance of coolant leaking. Glues are a problem.
The block may also be cracked. You can not put much press into these blocks because of the non ductile aluminum alloy used.
I would recommend trying the Moroso ceramic engine sealant. I have successfully sealed problem Honda blocks using this product.
Carefully follow the directions. I use the stuff on bare blocks, not with a complete running engine in the car. You do not want to plug up your radiator and heater core.
Steve
The block may also be cracked. You can not put much press into these blocks because of the non ductile aluminum alloy used.
I would recommend trying the Moroso ceramic engine sealant. I have successfully sealed problem Honda blocks using this product.
Carefully follow the directions. I use the stuff on bare blocks, not with a complete running engine in the car. You do not want to plug up your radiator and heater core.
Steve
I have a LS1 block that was re-sleeved. The problem it has it that is steams coolant into the crankcase when running. I know that the sleeves were installed by boring out the block, freezing the sleeves, and pressing them in with glue. It was done in Germany. The machinist used Volvo diesel engine sleeves for it. They are bored to 4.125. It has always steamed since the first time running. I was told to use Moroso engine seal because it was a common problem on the resleeved blocks. Has anyone ever experienced or heard of this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it?
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Richmond Hill, GA
How do you use it on a bare block? I thought it had to be at operating temperature. The engine is out and I could tear it down and use it. Thanks for the reply.
how to seal You first need to block off the deck with a pair of deck plates and gaskets. Make two plates to cover the water outlets on the front of the block. These need to be threaded for quarter inch pipe fittings. One will have a valve and quick release fitting the other a quarter inch pipe plug. You will switch these to do the other bank if required. The screw in water jacket plugs obviously must be in place.
You need to find where the leak is first. Pressurize the block with 25 psi of air. Spray the areas around the sleeves in the crankcase with a soap water mix or something like Windexor Fantastic to find the leak or leaks.
Assuming you find the leak, release the air, mix up the Moroso Ceramic engine sealer with hot water, enough of if to fill at least half the water jacket area on the bank you will seal up first. Remove the front block off plate on the side you are sealing, pour in the mixture, replace the plate and pressurize with 25 to 35 psi of air. Orient the block so you are certain the mixture covers the area that is leaking. It should seal up up the leak in a couple of minutes or less, that is if it is sealable. If you are successful, pour the solution out and do the other bank if it is also leaking, again with hot solution.
We are assuming the block is the culprit and not the heads. If you can not find a leak pressure check both heads.
Steve
You need to find where the leak is first. Pressurize the block with 25 psi of air. Spray the areas around the sleeves in the crankcase with a soap water mix or something like Windexor Fantastic to find the leak or leaks.
Assuming you find the leak, release the air, mix up the Moroso Ceramic engine sealer with hot water, enough of if to fill at least half the water jacket area on the bank you will seal up first. Remove the front block off plate on the side you are sealing, pour in the mixture, replace the plate and pressurize with 25 to 35 psi of air. Orient the block so you are certain the mixture covers the area that is leaking. It should seal up up the leak in a couple of minutes or less, that is if it is sealable. If you are successful, pour the solution out and do the other bank if it is also leaking, again with hot solution.
We are assuming the block is the culprit and not the heads. If you can not find a leak pressure check both heads.
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
