Want to run solid 11's... what do I need to get there?
OK 11.49 it is. I guess I shouldn't have brought that up. It will run what it runs. I won't have much for problems at the track I run at anyhow. No bracket racing for me... just fun drags.
But thanks much for the tech info! I don't have inspections here in KS but maybe a catted Y wouldn't be a bad idea. Do they rob much hp? I don't want a loud car so that might help with the sound some along with a good flowing muffer.
Is it possible to get a converter with a lockup at 3000-3500 range? I see a lot of people are running fuddle. They are the ticket?
Who makes the 224 cam? What's the specs?
Frat is your head quite a bit better than the AFR's? I thought AFR had a handle on the head market. Curious why you are running the ones you are. Thanks
But thanks much for the tech info! I don't have inspections here in KS but maybe a catted Y wouldn't be a bad idea. Do they rob much hp? I don't want a loud car so that might help with the sound some along with a good flowing muffer.
Is it possible to get a converter with a lockup at 3000-3500 range? I see a lot of people are running fuddle. They are the ticket?
Who makes the 224 cam? What's the specs?
Frat is your head quite a bit better than the AFR's? I thought AFR had a handle on the head market. Curious why you are running the ones you are. Thanks
Last edited by frito1; May 23, 2008 at 08:58 PM. Reason: mistake
The talk of the town is the 224 cam from Thunder Racing.
The PRC 5.3 Stage 2.5 is a great high quality budget head. I have no complaints. Doing the head swap was the single best mod I have done thus far. I wanted to try my hand at a head swap, but was not interested in spending over 2 g's on a set of heads for a stock bottom end LS1. The PRC 5.3 heads have a great reputation, but remember....its a stock Chevy head...the AFR is a complete redesign...and also has a STELLAR reputation. If you are looking for solid 11's....from the engine side of your project....I would focus on the heads.
Texas Speed has also updated the CNC profile and now have a 5.3 Stage 2.5r version available.
The Mufflex ORY is a beast. 3 inch to a Flowmaster Merge with a 4 inch out. I bought the catted QTP so I can pass NC state inspection. As for loud..... yeah....if my cut out is open when I start her up...it sounds like a NASCAR race is fixing to go down in my garage. If I close the cutout....it still barks to life... but the Borla muffler muffles it down a bit. On the streets... I have noticed people with their windows down and when I pass them...suddenly windows are going up.... LOL...
R/
Frat
The PRC 5.3 Stage 2.5 is a great high quality budget head. I have no complaints. Doing the head swap was the single best mod I have done thus far. I wanted to try my hand at a head swap, but was not interested in spending over 2 g's on a set of heads for a stock bottom end LS1. The PRC 5.3 heads have a great reputation, but remember....its a stock Chevy head...the AFR is a complete redesign...and also has a STELLAR reputation. If you are looking for solid 11's....from the engine side of your project....I would focus on the heads.
Texas Speed has also updated the CNC profile and now have a 5.3 Stage 2.5r version available.
The Mufflex ORY is a beast. 3 inch to a Flowmaster Merge with a 4 inch out. I bought the catted QTP so I can pass NC state inspection. As for loud..... yeah....if my cut out is open when I start her up...it sounds like a NASCAR race is fixing to go down in my garage. If I close the cutout....it still barks to life... but the Borla muffler muffles it down a bit. On the streets... I have noticed people with their windows down and when I pass them...suddenly windows are going up.... LOL...
R/
Frat
Thanks Frat.
I was checking out the TR224. Seems like is it a lower lift cam made to slide in with stock heads and springs. I'm still planning on the AFR 205 assembled with dual springs so bring on a little nastier cam!
I really like the looks of the TSP 224R and 228R with 114 LSA. Does your 228R cammed car still have fairly broad, usable power? The 228R with a 114 LSA might be a nice compromise of everything.
If it ever seems I'm mixing and matching parts that don't work in harmony, someone please say something.
I was checking out the TR224. Seems like is it a lower lift cam made to slide in with stock heads and springs. I'm still planning on the AFR 205 assembled with dual springs so bring on a little nastier cam!
I really like the looks of the TSP 224R and 228R with 114 LSA. Does your 228R cammed car still have fairly broad, usable power? The 228R with a 114 LSA might be a nice compromise of everything.
If it ever seems I'm mixing and matching parts that don't work in harmony, someone please say something.
Also the car has 119,xxx on the odometer. So the stock heads would need new valves, guides and springs at bare minimum. Why spend $$ on them?
I bought the 228r with a 112 LSA. It pulls great and is not as temperamental as the Torquer V3 I used to run. I have been playing aroung with my spark tables and have virtually eliminated cam surge. It has a nice noticable idle..... but please...don't make your cam decision based on the idle (not that you would).
If you are going to get the AFR's, that will set you up for a long time. A custom cam from PatrickG would be a nice match for those 205's.
Here are some ORY pics... Mufflex.... 56K beware...
R/
Frat
If you are going to get the AFR's, that will set you up for a long time. A custom cam from PatrickG would be a nice match for those 205's.
Here are some ORY pics... Mufflex.... 56K beware...
R/
Frat
That is a massive Y pipe! Did you reduce the 4" outlet back down to 3" before Y'ing back out?
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Verdad Gallardo I used a 4 inch to 3 inch reducer. My car is stock ride height so clearance is good. I still need to pay attention when I have to go over speed bumps and I definately do not turn into placces that have a steep entrance.
As for the idle.... pay more attention to the duration than the LSA to get an idea of idle quality. As for the power difference's between a 112 and 114... I am in the dark on that one. If I have it right the wider LSA will help you carry the power further into the RPM range. If I am wrong someone please correct me... I will edit as necessary.
R/
Frat
As for the idle.... pay more attention to the duration than the LSA to get an idea of idle quality. As for the power difference's between a 112 and 114... I am in the dark on that one. If I have it right the wider LSA will help you carry the power further into the RPM range. If I am wrong someone please correct me... I will edit as necessary.
R/
Frat
suspension, tires and a 100 shot with a TR224 cam TR is Thunder Racing cam, not just any 224 will do! Thunder has their own proprietary lobes, makes the difference. I've seen a lot of copy cat 224's not put out the same power or have the legendary tabletop curve.