cam only 400whp
cam only 400whp looking for what cam i could put in a ls1 6spd that would put me at or close to 400whp with headers back and a ls6 intake. i want a fairly beastly idle, but fyi..the motor has 100k on it so be carfull with telling me a cam that i will have to rev to 7krpms. unless u think the motor will handle it
i have a torquer 2 on 113+0 and a buddy who has a 231/237 112+2 and both did 400+.
Shift point on both are about 66-6700rpms.
Idle clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2dDvDgXDMo
Shift point on both are about 66-6700rpms.
Idle clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2dDvDgXDMo
come on guys..looking for the biggest improvement from any speed 0-130 and doing it as cheap as possible. i have another thread where im looking for a used ls6 intake and 1 7/8 headers...also r 4.10s to much for a ls1 with just a few bolt ons? or should i hold off on the 4.10s till i get a cam?
come on guys..looking for the biggest improvement from any speed 0-130 and doing it as cheap as possible. i have another thread where im looking for a used ls6 intake and 1 7/8 headers...also r 4.10s to much for a ls1 with just a few bolt ons? or should i hold off on the 4.10s till i get a cam?
4.10's are ideal for the M6 so everybody says ( I don't have them) but I have seen a high rate of failure in the 10 bolt with 4.10's. The pinion is really small to get that ratio thus making it weak. I'm going with 3.73's and when I get a aftermarket rear end I will probably run 4.10's or 4.30's. If your not going to do any drag racing I would say 4.10's if you are I would say stick with what you got or run 3.73's.
FYI 230/232 110+2 = 397 whp and 377 trq.
Edit I think my thread with the dyno sheet got deleted or something I can't find it anymore.
First off as far as the cam goes you should talk to Pred. or Patrick G. Patrick does that **** as a side job if he can't point you in the right direction nobody can. Take my advice and have him spec you a cam. You'll be glad you did.
4.10's are ideal for the M6 so everybody says ( I don't have them) but I have seen a high rate of failure in the 10 bolt with 4.10's. The pinion is really small to get that ratio thus making it weak. I'm going with 3.73's and when I get a aftermarket rear end I will probably run 4.10's or 4.30's. If your not going to do any drag racing I would say 4.10's if you are I would say stick with what you got or run 3.73's.
FYI 230/232 110+2 = 397 whp and 377 trq.
I will post up a link to the thread with my dyno sheet in case you want to look at it.
4.10's are ideal for the M6 so everybody says ( I don't have them) but I have seen a high rate of failure in the 10 bolt with 4.10's. The pinion is really small to get that ratio thus making it weak. I'm going with 3.73's and when I get a aftermarket rear end I will probably run 4.10's or 4.30's. If your not going to do any drag racing I would say 4.10's if you are I would say stick with what you got or run 3.73's.
FYI 230/232 110+2 = 397 whp and 377 trq.
I will post up a link to the thread with my dyno sheet in case you want to look at it.
Chris1313 has a 230/230 111+2 and he made 422 whp through an auto. Its hard to shoot for a # because you really don't know what your going to get. I would stay low 230's nice mix of street manners and power.
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4.10's are ideal for the M6 so everybody says ( I don't have them) but I have seen a high rate of failure in the 10 bolt with 4.10's. The pinion is really small to get that ratio thus making it weak. I'm going with 3.73's and when I get a aftermarket rear end I will probably run 4.10's or 4.30's. If your not going to do any drag racing I would say 4.10's if you are I would say stick with what you got or run 3.73's.
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Also as to the OP, take rocks advice and have Pat G or Preditor spec you a cam to work best with your current combo
My car made 390+ from 6k to 6.5k it didn't fall of much from there to redline. I don't think you have much to worry about with having 100k miles. I've got 85k and a bunch of guy's on here are well over 100k still running strong as ever. I have the limiter set at 6750 but I hardly ever rev it that high. I usually shift around 6500. You can't be afraid of hurting it though. That takes all the fun out of it. Give it hell. If it breaks get a used shortblock for next to nothing or up the ante and go forged and your ready to go again.
That FMS cam would probably work. I went back and forth on cams so many times I figured I would let somebody else decide for me. Told Pat. what I had and what I wanted and he hooked it up.
That FMS cam would probably work. I went back and forth on cams so many times I figured I would let somebody else decide for me. Told Pat. what I had and what I wanted and he hooked it up.
Any mid 23x/23x cam should get you there, or very close. My 232/234 did 395 SAE with n2o plugs and heavy wheels. The first time out it was trapping 115 launching off idle, so don't get too caught up in what it'll put down on the dyno. Going custom with either PatrickG or Predator is an excellent idea.
You want to fix something that ain't broke? I don't think so.
Oh so you have to buy a new rear end so you can get to work? Ok.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=210
You can see in his sig where to click for his cam website.
Good luck.
i can learn alot from u 
i made 408RWHP with MS4 112LSA , hokker headers longtubes , slp cat-back LM and 4.10
idle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKo_kVT92u8
idle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKo_kVT92u8
im pretty sure to go with the ms4 all you need is .660" springs and maybe pushrods. and i wouldnt go with 4.10s on your 10 bolt with 100k and an m6 that has a lot of wear as it is then you put the leverage of the 4.10s and something is gonna give. I say give her hell till she screams mercy, then fix her and do it again.