Tulip valve????
From what he said, the stock 1.55 valve will flow better due the 24 degree "tulip" back angle. Is this correct? He said that this was the best way to go and that there were no issues with the stock valve..
From what he told me, the Ferrea and Manley valves only come in like a 20? degree slope and the only ay to go above the 24 was to go titanium.
So what's the deal? will the 1.55 stock valve work better because of the shape or will the 1.60 Ferrea work better due to the size?
What kind of CR can I go with and not have any major PVC problems? He told me about flycutting the pistons myself with the Isky jig (and that he would loan it to me for free), but I don't think I'm gonna pull the motor to do the swap.

Phillip

Phillip
The tulip valve will give a bit better numbers out of a 1.55 and 1.60 size difference. I learned this at one of the cult meetings we had :p
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The tulip valve will give a bit better numbers out of a 1.55 and 1.60 size difference. I learned this at one of the cult meetings we had :p
Thank you Tony. When I can afford the dues, I'll be there. Until then I'll come here for assistance.

I understand that the valve is tapered, but what's this deal about the stock valve working better than an aftermarket Ferrea (assumably tapered to the same degree as a stock 1.55" valve) 1.60"?
Brian brought this up and it doesn't seeem to make sense, but if it works- it works.
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Hope this helps
Brian
Intake to exhaust ratio(expressed in percentages here) is highly dependent on the type of motor you are building.While N/A motors tend to work best with an exhaust valve 65-75% of the intake.A supercharged(chemically or mechanically) motor will usually see the best numbers with an exhaust valve 70-85% of the intake. A higher C/R will often allow the use of a smaller exhaust valve.
BTW a "tulip" valve has a concave face making the valve lighter. This valve treatment does not affect flow at all to the best of my knowledge.



