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View Poll Results: Did you use your stock pushrods for your baby cam?
Yes I have, dont be scared!
27
35.06%
No I have not, dont be so cheap!
50
64.94%
Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll

Who has used there stock push rods for a mild cam?

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Old 06-02-2008, 11:17 PM
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I am have stock ones right now. I have new ones just havent had time to replace them. Seems fine right now but not sure how long they will be good for.
Old 06-02-2008, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasonscott
Just out of curiosity can anyone show me a thread where there was a catastrophic motor failure due to a pushrod alone? Cause I have yet to see one. Infact the only guys I ever see bending any pushrods are ones who miss shifts and over rev the **** out of the motor, in which case i would rather have a pushrod bend than a valve anyday. Not saying hardened rods arent a good idea, just dont see why they are a necessity like so many say.
Thank you. Bent pushrods are an easy fix. Missing a shift and bending valves is not. I'm not saying they are a bad idea, but they can be unnecessary.
Old 06-03-2008, 12:11 PM
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I don't know if this really happens but stock PRs might actually deflect a little. If it happenes you will be robbed of some lift and maybe throw off valve timing. Just a thought.
Old 06-03-2008, 01:35 PM
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Well, I voted that I have stock pushrods, but it's not because I'm cheap, I just haven't had the chance to get a pushrod checker and calculate the correct length. A friend just ordered a pushrod checker, so I'll do it in the near future and order the correct ones.

I've checked mine on occasion and they are still straight as an arrow, so worst case scenario, as stated, is that I'm not getting full lift out of my cam because they are deflecting slightly at high rpm and not giving full lift.
Old 06-03-2008, 01:37 PM
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An even better question is to ask how many people ordered pushrods without actually checking what the correct length needs to be?????? To many people guess at the length based on the cam base circle as well as how much has been milled off the heads and how thick of a gasket they are running.... stop trying to do the math and just use the tool to check it.
Old 06-03-2008, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasonscott
Just out of curiosity can anyone show me a thread where there was a catastrophic motor failure due to a pushrod alone? Cause I have yet to see one. Infact the only guys I ever see bending any pushrods are ones who miss shifts and over rev the **** out of the motor, in which case i would rather have a pushrod bend than a valve anyday. Not saying hardened rods arent a good idea, just dont see why they are a necessity like so many say.
i didnt have a catastrophic failure, but i did waste a lot of money & time by skimping on push rods. granted i had a big cam but i had the mind set like a couple others, thats 100 bucks i can spend on something else !!

for what its worth, i did use stock push rods on my first cam 222/222 .568 .568 for a long time with no problems, but when i switched to a bigger cam it didnt last 200 miles
Old 06-04-2008, 08:32 PM
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Comp XER 236 / 240 601 / 608 114 LSA

Manley Nextek Dual Springs.

Stock push rods....probably 20,000 miles.
Old 06-04-2008, 10:09 PM
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id rather bend a pushrod then bend a valve im on stockers with the torquer 2
Old 06-05-2008, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by LSWONGTO
Well u really can,t put a price on piece of mind. Or in this case I guess u can and its only 110 for comp pushrods. Good luck what ever u choose.
Exactly my thoughts. I know that I can head out for a show across the state, and if I need to run it hard, I will not break something....
Old 06-05-2008, 02:21 PM
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You can get by with stockers on a mild cam with weak ramp rates. You shouldn't but you can. A weak pushrod is in no way a threat to the engine itself, so they really have nothing to do with "$3000 piece of mind" as some people have mentioned. It won't cause catastrophic engine failure.
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Old 06-05-2008, 03:07 PM
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Stupid not to change PR's, springs and retainers. Not to mention that the base circle is generally smaller, so you should probably be running a 7.40" pushrod anyway. Depending on mileage, lifters and timing chain and gear, oil pump should be replaced. Remember the newest F body is now 6 years old.
Old 06-05-2008, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
Stupid not to change PR's, springs and retainers. Not to mention that the base circle is generally smaller, so you should probably be running a 7.40" pushrod anyway. Depending on mileage, lifters and timing chain and gear, oil pump should be replaced. Remember the newest F body is now 6 years old.
Most springs for a small cam will use the stock retainers. It's not stupid to save money by not changing those, and I don't see any logical reason why it would be considered stupid.

7.4 is the stock pushrod length. Replacing the entire timing set is out of the ordinary to for a small cam swap. Stick a new chain on the old sprockets and be done. Six years old is not old at all.
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Old 06-05-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasonscott
Just out of curiosity can anyone show me a thread where there was a catastrophic motor failure due to a pushrod alone? Cause I have yet to see one. Infact the only guys I ever see bending any pushrods are ones who miss shifts and over rev the **** out of the motor, in which case i would rather have a pushrod bend than a valve anyday. Not saying hardened rods arent a good idea, just dont see why they are a necessity like so many say.
A mild cam I may can understand using stock pushrods. If it is anything on XE lobes or more aggressive though, you are costing yourself POWER and valvetrain stability with is longevity. Do what you choose.
Old 06-05-2008, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 98 Z
Comp XER 236 / 240 601 / 608 114 LSA

Manley Nextek Dual Springs.

Stock push rods....probably 20,000 miles.
And you are probably costing yourself 15 hp through pushrod flex.
Old 06-05-2008, 04:11 PM
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Stock pushrods are 7.38 as I recall, and I maintain it is stupid not to change out the items I listed. Better to be safe than sorry.
Old 06-05-2008, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
Stock pushrods are 7.38 as I recall, and I maintain it is stupid not to change out the items I listed. Better to be safe than sorry.
They are 7.4

Please do explain how it is "better safe than sorry" to change retainers, and when you can do that you will have gained some sort of credit for your opinion. You can't though, because it doesn't make any sense at all.
Old 06-05-2008, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
And you are probably costing yourself 15 hp through pushrod flex.
15 hp?? Id like to see a dyno sheet that proves that.... Im no expert and dont pretend to be, but my guess would be maybe 5 if anything.
Old 06-05-2008, 04:40 PM
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The vast majority of after market retainers are titanium, duh, they weigh less. Incremental weight reduction equals incremental performance gains.

Also depending on mileage lifter trays and rockers should be changed out.
Old 06-05-2008, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdsz
The vast majority of after market retainers are titanium, duh, they weigh less. Incremental weight reduction equals incremental performance gains.

Also depending on mileage lifter trays and rockers should be changed out.
No sir. You said it was STUPID to not change the retainers and that it was being safe rather than sorry. Your explanation has nothing to do with that. And you don't change rockers as preventative maintenance, you are the only one being stupid here. When putting in a "baby cam" why in the HELL would you change the lifter trays?

Do you change your alternator and starter for preventative maintenance too?
Old 06-05-2008, 05:07 PM
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At 62 years old I have rebuilt my fair share of engines and I'm just trying to offer some good advice and not trying to get into a pissing contest with anyone.

IMO it's very short sighted not to replace parts, particularly valve train parts, when the engine is apart. Case closed.


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