Stripped Crank. HELP please
Stripped Crank. HELP please ok so i was changing out my cam in my 02 and my dumb *** managed to strip the crankshaft threads themselves. i was removing the pully with a puller when i backed out the bolt to use my longer bolt for more distance that there was threads on the bolt itself. not when i put in my bolt it goes in sideways and gets stuck. what are my options?? please help asap guys thanks
I would think you would be able to clean the threads just by running a tap through them.
16 x 2.0
Right now that would be your only option to try and safe the treads.
PM sent as well.
16 x 2.0
Right now that would be your only option to try and safe the treads.
PM sent as well.
I did a similar thing and I used a tap and some penetrating oil and cleaned it up real well and everything was ok. If I remember correctly that was the size of tap I used. You would have to do a search back into my threads from last year to see.
I could tell you "I told you so" on using the proper puller, but it sounds like you might be suffering enough! More than likely the first few threads are buggered up. A tap should clean it up. By the way the Snap On puller has different pushrods that go into the end of the crank that the puller works against instead of bottoming out on the crank snout.
I did the same thing, so don't feel too bad. I bought a tap and tapped it. The first couple threads were messed up, but everything is ok. I had the 16mm 2.0 tap and a rubber mallet. I had to give it a few light taps to get it started. If this doesn't work, you can always helicoil it.
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This problem can be avoided altogether if you don't use the crank bolt threads to buck against, but instead use a BIG allen head cap screw. Completely remove the crank bolt. You put a few flat washers(diameter slightly smaller than the crank snout O.D.) under the head of the cap screw to spread the load. Put the allen screw with the flat washer in where you just removed the crank bolt. You put the puller rod tip into the allen head cap screw which forces the puller rod to be self-centering. As you tighten the puller rod the force is applied against the face of the crank snout NOT the crank bolt threads. The allen screw has to be big enough not to walk as you remove the pulley. The diameter of the one I use is just barely small enough to slide past the crank bolt threads. If you use this method along with that nice $40 pusher tool you won't have any problems either removing or installing the pulley. Another important thing you need to learn through experience or the hard way is that you start fasteners(be they bolts, screws, nuts, etc.) BY HAND. You use your fingers to get them started because your fingers have the sensitivity to "feel" whether or not the fastener is started properly. You do NOT start important fasteners using hand tools or power tools or you end up with the result posted here. These suggestions have been made many times for years now on this site. If you would just take the time to go back and "search" for them most of these problems can be avoided. I guess some people just have to learn the hard way.
This problem can be avoided altogether if you don't use the crank bolt threads to buck against, but instead use a BIG allen head cap screw. Completely remove the crank bolt. You put a few flat washers(diameter slightly smaller than the crank snout O.D.) under the head of the cap screw to spread the load. Put the allen screw with the flat washer in where you just removed the crank bolt. You put the puller rod tip into the allen head cap screw which forces the puller rod to be self-centering. As you tighten the puller rod the force is applied against the face of the crank snout NOT the crank bolt threads. The allen screw has to be big enough not to walk as you remove the pulley. The diameter of the one I use is just barely small enough to slide past the crank bolt threads. If you use this method along with that nice $40 pusher tool you won't have any problems either removing or installing the pulley. Another important thing you need to learn through experience or the hard way is that you start fasteners(be they bolts, screws, nuts, etc.) BY HAND. You use your fingers to get them started because your fingers have the sensitivity to "feel" whether or not the fastener is started properly. You do NOT start important fasteners using hand tools or power tools or you end up with the result posted here. These suggestions have been made many times for years now on this site. If you would just take the time to go back and "search" for them most of these problems can be avoided. I guess some people just have to learn the hard way.
I would try to re-tap first I broke the bolt in my crank snout 2 inches deep and had to drill it out. By the time I got the bolt out the first couple threads were a little f=---- up.
I tried to re-tap and the bolt went in fine. Be careful when tapping a little in and a little out, take it slow. If all else fails I know a guy that heli coiled the smooth part of the snout and it worked fine. Good luck I feel your pain.
I tried to re-tap and the bolt went in fine. Be careful when tapping a little in and a little out, take it slow. If all else fails I know a guy that heli coiled the smooth part of the snout and it worked fine. Good luck I feel your pain.
