454 build
454 build Alright guys, I have a dream!
I want to build a 454 but I'm a little torn as to which way to do it.
I was thinking about going with a warhawk block with the 9.800 deck height and keeping the bore the stock at 4.125 and running a 4.250 stroke. The other option is to have a sleeved ls1 by darton and having a 4.200bore by a 4.100stroke.
As for the heads... I'm lost i was thinking about some AFR 225's but i don't think that they'll flow enough for this certain application. This would probably be the better choice PRC LS7 280cc Big Runner.
cam... dunno??? perhaps a solid roller solid lifter, but i'm not to sure about setting the valve lash. I've heard conflicting things. I've been told by some that i won't have to set valve lash but every 10,000 miles, and by others I'd have to set it evey time I drive it so....
I'm wanting to keep the compression ratio around 11.5:1 area. Just so i can still run it on pump gas.
I'm going to keep the engine Naturally aspirated, but i do want to have a direct port nitrous setup on it. I would like to keep this car streetable I don't care about the ac or heat or even the power steering, that all can come out.
any help would be appreciated guys!
I want to build a 454 but I'm a little torn as to which way to do it.
I was thinking about going with a warhawk block with the 9.800 deck height and keeping the bore the stock at 4.125 and running a 4.250 stroke. The other option is to have a sleeved ls1 by darton and having a 4.200bore by a 4.100stroke.
As for the heads... I'm lost i was thinking about some AFR 225's but i don't think that they'll flow enough for this certain application. This would probably be the better choice PRC LS7 280cc Big Runner.
cam... dunno??? perhaps a solid roller solid lifter, but i'm not to sure about setting the valve lash. I've heard conflicting things. I've been told by some that i won't have to set valve lash but every 10,000 miles, and by others I'd have to set it evey time I drive it so....
I'm wanting to keep the compression ratio around 11.5:1 area. Just so i can still run it on pump gas.
I'm going to keep the engine Naturally aspirated, but i do want to have a direct port nitrous setup on it. I would like to keep this car streetable I don't care about the ac or heat or even the power steering, that all can come out.
any help would be appreciated guys!
Are you dead set on an aluminum block? If so then I like the Darton sleeve idea - if you contact Steve at RED, he can really help you out. In terms of heads, I'd go with some big TrickFlows. Not sure what intake you would use though - even a ported Fast might be holding you back a little with all that displacement....
ya, I'm pretty set on an aluminum block. As far as the intake goes I'll either go with a custom sheet metal from beck or, if it'll be enough, a carb manifold with a sheet metal elbo. What trick flows exactly?
If your stuck on Aluminum, I'd personally go a 440cid LS7, with some Trickflow 245's and a Beck intake.
I WOULD NOT sleeve an LS2, nor would I go with a warhawk.
Just my honest opinion.
If you insist on a 454, *** the aluminum and go with an LSx. Theres a reason the fastest guys are running the LSx's.
I WOULD NOT sleeve an LS2, nor would I go with a warhawk.
Just my honest opinion.
If you insist on a 454, *** the aluminum and go with an LSx. Theres a reason the fastest guys are running the LSx's.
If your stuck on Aluminum, I'd personally go a 440cid LS7, with some Trickflow 245's and a Beck intake.
I WOULD NOT sleeve an LS2, nor would I go with a warhawk.
Just my honest opinion.
If you insist on a 454, *** the aluminum and go with an LSx. Theres a reason the fastest guys are running the LSx's.
I WOULD NOT sleeve an LS2, nor would I go with a warhawk.
Just my honest opinion.
If you insist on a 454, *** the aluminum and go with an LSx. Theres a reason the fastest guys are running the LSx's.
I just feel more comfortable without sleeves. Of course there is that whole affiliational psychology thing, especially after spending the money...
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If your stuck on Aluminum, I'd personally go a 440cid LS7, with some Trickflow 245's and a Beck intake.
I WOULD NOT sleeve an LS2, nor would I go with a warhawk.
Just my honest opinion.
If you insist on a 454, *** the aluminum and go with an LSx. Theres a reason the fastest guys are running the LSx's.
I WOULD NOT sleeve an LS2, nor would I go with a warhawk.
Just my honest opinion.
If you insist on a 454, *** the aluminum and go with an LSx. Theres a reason the fastest guys are running the LSx's.
Ooops, meant 245's....stuck thinking on the AFR's haha.
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This shouldn't be a problem if he goes for the darton sleeved aluminum block, which IIRC has a longer cylinder to support the piston.
I'm thinking, even though the Iron is heavier, I want to go with the LSX block. Since it can be bored out to 4.250. I'd rather have a bigger bore than a stroke. And we all know I'll probably want to go FI after awhile, and i'm not sure that the aluminum is capable of handling that. I think I'm going to run a similar setup to Rufretic's
First of all there is nothing wrong with a re-sleeved block provided it was done by a competant shop, I think RED has that covered. Second of all, ALL the aluminum blocks are sleeved to begin with.... This is the issue with the LS7 sleeves they are not the same material.
Then as touched on above you can have a longer sleeve put in for that stroke
But this is not for a FI application, OP started off looking for big N/A power now has gone to boost....
Our LSX 434 is perfect for the job. We dont over-bore for big FI applications. There are reasons for it. IF your looking for a stout short block n/a or FI we can certainly build something for you that will handle all you dish out and be durable as well.
Then as touched on above you can have a longer sleeve put in for that stroke
But this is not for a FI application, OP started off looking for big N/A power now has gone to boost....
Our LSX 434 is perfect for the job. We dont over-bore for big FI applications. There are reasons for it. IF your looking for a stout short block n/a or FI we can certainly build something for you that will handle all you dish out and be durable as well.
BTW, TEA individually flowed our 245's before shipping them to us and sent us the flow sheet. The numbers were slightly better than those posted on their web site! I was impressed to see the flow sheet in the box with the heads!
The PRC heads look beautiful, and once they get a better intake manifold for the application I think the LS7's will come into their own and more and more power will be made with big strokers. The problem we had with the LS7 top end was the lack of intake choices, and the price to make the LS7's able to run a larger cam (springs, valves, etc). Also in our situation we already have a ported FAST 90/90 setup on our 346 and the cam choices led us back to cathedral port heads.
Well the LS7 intake isnt that bad, but we will certainly be testing it here shortly with big cubes and heads flowing 400+ 
All Pro LSW heads
All Pro LSW heads Last edited by 99blancoSS; Jun 14, 2008 at 12:48 AM.
454 Darton dry sleeved LS2 block 4.185" bore 4.125" stroke is your best bet. I have done several in this configuration. Darton sleeves, both dry and wet are 5.800" long which is long enough to support the piston at the bottom of the stroke @ 4.125". The sleeves are three times the tensile strength of the stock LS2 or LS7 liners.
Contact Richard at West Coast Racing Heads. He has his reworked LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports and higher flowing All Pro heads. The LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports will be more than adequate for what you are looking to do.
The factory LS7 manifold ported by someone good, like Tony Mamo, will do the trick as well.
Steve
Contact Richard at West Coast Racing Heads. He has his reworked LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports and higher flowing All Pro heads. The LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports will be more than adequate for what you are looking to do.
The factory LS7 manifold ported by someone good, like Tony Mamo, will do the trick as well.
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Darton dry sleeved LS2 block 4.185" bore 4.125" stroke is your best bet. I have done several in this configuration. Darton sleeves, both dry and wet are 5.800" long which is long enough to support the piston at the bottom of the stroke @ 4.125". The sleeves are three times the tensile strength of the stock LS2 or LS7 liners.
Contact Richard at West Coast Racing Heads. He has his reworked LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports and higher flowing All Pro heads. The LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports will be more than adequate for what you are looking to do.
The factory LS7 manifold ported by someone good, like Tony Mamo, will do the trick as well.
Steve
Contact Richard at West Coast Racing Heads. He has his reworked LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports and higher flowing All Pro heads. The LS7 heads with larger exhaust ports will be more than adequate for what you are looking to do.
The factory LS7 manifold ported by someone good, like Tony Mamo, will do the trick as well.
Steve
Fi The sleeves are holding 950 to the wheels with turbo @ 4.125" bore. Turn Key has built several of these using my LS2 dry sleeved blocks.
Steve
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
