cam/head setup for daily driver
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2000 t/a with lots of mods
Last edited by Z28/2002; Jun 18, 2008 at 10:04 AM.
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Make sure you plan accordingly and allow some room for error in your pricing structure. Do things once the right way, and it will be worth the extra money.
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Make sure you plan accordingly and allow some room for error in your pricing structure. Do things once the right way, and it will be worth the extra money.
Several of them offer proven H/C packages & are priced in your range. They can also help you with a combo that serves the exact purpose you want from the car.
Just a little perspective:
I have a Futral F13 (good cam, custom developed) and Patriot Stage II LS6 heads (ported OEM head, not an aftermarket cast like the AFRs)... you could considern that a "cheap" setup in some sense.... however with the proper valvetrain parts, gaskets, supporting clutch/flywheel for the power, dyno tune, labor (unfortunately no access to proper tools, garage, etc.) I spent over $6k.
My setup is by no means "high-end", but it was done right, is extremely reliable, and daily driven.
Are you going to be installing this yourself? are you JUST doing "heads and cam" or are you gonna get the proper valvetrain support, tuning, etc.?
Shawn offered you a good setup for the buck in the post above. But please keep in mind, there are other costs to consider. I'm not criticizing you, I just want you to be aware of what your getting into so you don't end up with your car apart and lacking the funds to finish should something arise.
On another note, engine modifications are just the beginning of a "heads and cam package" Drive train supporting modifications can equal or surpass the cost of the power mods especially if your car is a manual. It's no fun to have all that power with no way to get it to the road reliably.
I ran a (I believe from body style) 07' vette non-Z06 on the highway from 60-130. I put about 3 full solid cars on him both times & it still had the paper tag in the window.
I'm piecing together a forged 347 right now to huff nitrous. So I'll get it tuned with the Aluminum intake & juice once the motor is ready. I'm looking for around 420hp/400tq on the motor & north of 550hp on the juice. I just haven't got it tunes b/c it has ran perfect since the install & the only code thats poopped is the improper heating of O2 sensor which is typical even after LT's. I'm also averaging 18mpg too currently.
Just a little perspective:
I have a Futral F13 (good cam, custom developed) and Patriot Stage II LS6 heads (ported OEM head, not an aftermarket cast like the AFRs)... you could considern that a "cheap" setup in some sense.... however with the proper valvetrain parts, gaskets, supporting clutch/flywheel for the power, dyno tune, labor (unfortunately no access to proper tools, garage, etc.) I spent over $6k.
My setup is by no means "high-end", but it was done right, is extremely reliable, and daily driven.
Are you going to be installing this yourself? are you JUST doing "heads and cam" or are you gonna get the proper valvetrain support, tuning, etc.?
Shawn offered you a good setup for the buck in the post above. But please keep in mind, there are other costs to consider. I'm not criticizing you, I just want you to be aware of what your getting into so you don't end up with your car apart and lacking the funds to finish should something arise.
so lets say i have a 2000 a4 and i have full hooker exhaust i have an mti air lid and i want to put a cam and head package in my car what else would i need to make it reliable....im guessing some rear -end work...do something to the tans like you were saying new fly wheel? also i will prolly get a ported TB and ls6 intake help me out guys im just trying to learn a little bit here i realize it will cost money to do this stuff and im willing to spend whatever it cost to do it up right the first time while i have it apart. just curious what else i need to make it a reliable daily driver. thanx for all the input so far.
For a basic H/C swap you will want the following:
H/C package of your choice
water pump gaskets
timing cover gasket
new balancer bolt
LS7 lifters (i suggest this at minimum while you have the heads off)
oil pump (optional but if you want one the Melling is a good choice or a TSP ported)
new stock head bolts or ARP head bolts (the stockers are TTY, so only one use out of them)
hardened chromemoly pushrods (correct length for your application)
LS2 timing chain
New head gaskets
new plugs/wires
And I would highly recommend a aftermarket stall converter to match your H/C combo
You can always come back later & have your trans rebuilt & upgrade to a 12-bolt or 9" rear end set-up. But these things are NOT required for a basic H/C set-up to be up & running. Depending on your H/C selection tuning will be a must & and it is a must to see full potiential from your combo.
You should easily be able to do a full H/C swap for around $2500 & thats for all new parts from a sponsor. you can sometimes save alot of money buying from other members on here. Hopefully this helps you out.
Also note that when I did mine I also replaced my water pump & radiator hoses while I was in there. Just made sense to me since thats cheap stuff to take care of while it's apart.
I don't think I would call my setup "above & beyond" or I would have more cubes and some FI on top of that

I just made sure I had the right parts in the right places. Valvetrain work is DEFINITELY worth the money. A stall will help performance and increase the driveability of the cam. Big Mike put down a good list of what your motor does NEED. I would also classify a good tune in the HIGHLY RECOMMENDED/NEED column as well. The rest is all in how much you want to do and want to spend.
Check my car domain page and take a look at the engine mods, minus gaskets, bolts, and plugs, that is everything you should need.



