98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Well it wasn't the map sensor. I RTV'd it and let it sit for a while. Just tried starting it up and the RPM immediately went to like 3000RPM and just sat there. No idea what in the world is going on.

white00ta

iTrader: (-1)

Seeing 50 or so cars a day being a service manager, 99.9 % of the time its a vacuum leak. If you haven't sprayed the engine with carb spray start spraying.Wish i could help out. Let me know how it turns out. Plus i wanna hear some video

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

Well I took the suggestion of blowing smoke into the brake booster hose and then looking for a leak. I tried the carb cleaner and didn't come up with anything. Here's what I noticed. Smoke came pouring out of the throttle body, but that was the only place. I figured that the IAC was still partially open and that's what was causing the smoke to be coming out, but when I actually looked at it it smoke looked to be leaking all around the throttle blade opening. and it would stick closed. I did all of this with the throttle cable off because when it's on it hangs the throttle open a little bit. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about...

This is closed with the cable unhooked:



And this is when I hooked the TB cable back up. It pulls the throttle body open a little and just hangs it there. I've checked and checked and there is nothing holding the cable up anywhere or anything like that. Is this normal?

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

well did you remove the throttle body,and put it back on or anything,maybe it just wasnt fitting right or something??

Engine_HP

iTrader: (1)

If i where u id close the mass air or throtle with my hand and focus on the whistling sound if there is. if the rpm decreases and the engine still runing it is defenatly vacuum leak.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I shut the throttle body by taking the cable off and backing the idle screw out and the motor died immediately, then wouldn't start.

PI HAT

I feel ya man. Ive been dealing with the same thing for a while too. I cant even drive my car. I am just going to trailer it to my tuner. Good luck man

PowerShift408

iTrader: (44)

Could be the fact that you're running open headers. When I put on my BMR torque arm and relo. bracket, my true duals wouldn't fit back on. Drove it to my tuner because I was getting ready for a new H/C setup and my car barely made it across town. Erratic idling like yours, sounded like it was breaking up cruising, everything. Ran fine when the exhaust was on it before though. Just a thought...

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Apparently in these days of hi tech no one bothers to reach down into the bottom drawer of the tool box anymore and pull out the old tried and true vacuum gauge. Nobody seems to drag out dads dusty Simpson or Wigginton down from the shelf anymore either, but sometimes there is a place for these antiquated devices even in our modern age. Maybe that's why you read some of the strange diagnosis for seemingly simple problems. Sometimes it's best to just stop for a minute and go back to basics. Within a matter of minutes a vacuum gauge will tell you if you have a vacuum leak at idle and you can stop wasting time if you don't have a leak. Your time will be better spent looking for the real problem. That's not a say a Labscope or a scan tool don't have their place. Sometimes they are indispensable. What about the IAC motor? Do you monitor your IAC counts at idle? I thought the throttle blade drill mod went out with the 8 track tape player. Doesn't the PCM have something to do with controlling idle speed by regulating the IAC motor duty cycle?