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Oil Pump Timing Chain Scar...

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Default Oil Pump Timing Chain Scar...

Well after more inspection of all my parts after cleaning them this is what I noticed. I properly installed it and have been running this pump for about 6,000 miles with no issues. I installed the spacers on the oil pump and checked everything and this is still what happened. Am I still ok to run this pump the way it is? The chain itself has no warping or score marks anywhere on it and looks brand new. This is the Melling LS6 double roller upgrade that I installed.

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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I had the same thing on my Rollermaster Double chain and Melling HV oil pump. It is mainly the slack in the chain causing it. I clearance my pump some, I will let you know if it helps.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 11:11 PM
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Should I just get a dremel and smoothe down where the timing chain comes into contact with the pump? I would think that melling would have made a better design than this
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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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Looking at your pic, my Melling was worse. I dremelled mine to where I didn't see the gouge anymore then blended around it. Take alittle off at a time and bolt it on and see how close it gets.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Well I called Melling and they informed me that the 10296 oil pump was never designed or intended for use with a double roller chain. So, in an attempt to alleviate the current issue I need to know whether or not I should get a whole new SLP pump or just use the current one I have. Here are some pics of what the current pump looks like with the double roller installed with spacers on the pump. I have .006" clearance between the back of the pump and the front of the chain. What would you do in my situation?




Last edited by Halloran; Jun 30, 2008 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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I use a high quality single roller chain and dump the double roller.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 05:23 PM
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With all the upgrades I'm doing I really want to retain the double roller. I don't want to just remove it and try and sell it or just hang on to it. I'd rather just spend the extra money and get the SLP pump or find out how much clearance the pump should have from the chain that way I can know what's safe and what's not.
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Old Jul 21, 2008 | 09:01 PM
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Just wondering if you fixed your problem. I am installing the same setup and was wondering what I should do. Thanks.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 12:42 AM
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Nice camera work. I'd ask Melling what the minimum clearance between the chain plates and the front face of the pump should be. They're probably going to give you some value you can achieve since they don't intend for the double chain to be used with that pump. It's obvious the chain has already done most of the work for you. Maybe you can get away with cleaning it up using the dremmel.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 05:09 AM
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You could always have a machine shop make some new spacers that are .015 thicker than what you currently have on there, but then you might have to grind the cover to get it to fit.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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thats normal just grind the pump a litlle more in the contact spot
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 11:36 PM
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Yeah I got it resolved. I just got a dremel and some diamond bits and went to work. I think anywhere from .018 to .030 is acceptable clearance. There is a whole writeup on what to grind down but all I did was dremel the back of the pump where the chain would sit behind and then I dremeled the front of the pump in a round circle so the timing cover would sit flush. I just used some assembly lube to give me a template of where to grind when the timing cover was on. But you can use play dough or whatever. I also took a bit off the oil pump cover bolts and I also dremeled down the four recessed areas on the inside of the timing cover where the outside pump bolts would align. Hope that helps.

Edit: here is the writeup I found that helped out alot. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....61&postcount=6
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